1974 JD310-D Problem

kidroc2133

New User
Just joined the forum and have found a lot of good information before joining, but I am at a loss on this tractor I bought. It was rebuilt then sat for 5 years before I bought it (300hrs on rebuild). I can not get it to stay running. The injector pump is working fine. I get fuel to the injectors. Fuel filter replaced, new injectors, new starter, fresh diesel. Timing was to be said an issue with it when I bought it so the timing was rest with #1 at TDC and the injector pump timing marks line up. If I use either I can get it to run but after a few minutes it will start to die down and shut off and when I get it to run its at higher rpm than what it should be but anything less and it will die. Return line checked and not clogged. I am at a loss and need some your advice to help me get this thing running right. Thanks.
 
take the fitting out of the top of the injection pump that return line hooks to see if fuel come ot the top of pump and if it keeps running the fitting ck valve is plunged which means the plastic govern ring is going bad you can break the glass cat eye out and it my run for some time but it also could just run away with it self
 

Welcome to YT
Utilizing starting fluid incorrectly can very possibly damage engine.

Have you checked operation of 12 volt fuel control solenoid? Can a click be heard when fuel control solenoid is energized?

Does solenoid have electricity when ign switch is in "on position"?

Do you have good fuel flow from tank to inj pump inlet fitting"
 
Just trying to get more background. It would be hard to get 300 hours run time on an engine with the issue you are describing. What was done to it that would affect timing after it was rebuilt and supposedly ran 300 hours? Who said it was a timing issue?

You say it set for 5 years, that could have consequences in the injection pump. You say the injection pump is fine. How did you determine it is fine? To me it would need to be checked on a test bench to say that. If you have a constant constant power to the shutoff solenoid (and it is working correctly), good supply of fuel to the pump, the fuel return is open and there is no evidence of "mouse turds" in the return or at the timing window; two other factors would be compression or the injector pump itself. Does it smoke some when you crank it, what color? Are the valves all free? It is possible for the pump to push fuel out the injector lines when they are unhooked, but not have pressure enough to pop the injectors. Just my thoughts.
 
Well I ended up taking the injector pump off and sending it to thepumpguysc and I am just waiting for it to come back in. He said it had some major problems. Now my next question is if someone can help out is when I took the pump off I made sure #1 was at TDC and the flywheel plug was put in the hole in the fly wheel. Both lines on the pump matched up perfect, but I hear the pump drive shaft should be at a 12 o'clock possition with the dot on the top end of it. If the pump shaft is sitting at 11 o'clock position and the lines on the pump line up perfect will it matter if the pump shaft has jumper a few teeth of do I need to just take the whole front cover off and realign the pump gear to match everything else?
 
(quoted from post at 16:52:30 01/25/21) Well I ended up taking the injector pump off and sending it to thepumpguysc and I am just waiting for it to come back in. He said it had some major problems. Now my next question is if someone can help out is when I took the pump off I made sure #1 was at TDC and the flywheel plug was put in the hole in the fly wheel. Both lines on the pump matched up perfect, but I hear the pump drive shaft should be at a 12 o'clock possition with the dot on the top end of it. If the pump shaft is sitting at 11 o'clock position and the lines on the pump line up perfect will it matter if the pump shaft has jumper a few teeth of do I need to just take the whole front cover off and realign the pump gear to match everything else?

"but I hear the pump drive shaft should be at a 12 o'clock possition with the dot on the top end of it."

What is the source of that information? Is that in your manual? You said you had it at TDC, you installed the timing pin and the marks in the pump were lined up prefect. If the marks on the pump are lined up when it comes back, it should be right to go back on the shaft.
 
This is what I was told by the guy who rebuilt the pump that on the end of the pump shaft there is a dot on the end of it that should be in the 12 o'clock position. I'm just trying to figure out it the shaft was actually turned or skipped a few teeth and the pump shaft wasn't at a 12 o'clock position but let's say 10 o'clock position would it make a difference? As long as it all lined up.

Just say for example if it was possible to have the pump shaft dot at a 6 o'clock position then put the pump on upside down because the dot in the rotor of the pump with lines lined up would mean the pump has to go on upside down to have the dots line up then essentially it would work that way.

I just don't want to fudge this pump up if for some reason even if all is lined up its not right.
 
If you have the shaft of the pump backward 180 degrs, the tractor would not start at all, unless someone alsoinstalled the pump gear wrong.
 
Do you have the proper John Deere technical manual for your machine? If you do, read about injection pump removal and installation, what does it say? If you don't have one, it would be a good time to invest in the JD tech manual for your machine. It will be useful in solving other problems in the future as well.

I do not find a thing in any of my manuals, for other JD machines with the same/similar system, that says the shaft has to be positioned so the dot on the tang is at 12 o'clock or any set position. They only say the dot on the shaft tang needs to line up with the dot in the mating slot of the pump when the engine is at TDC compression on #1 cylinder, the timing pin in the flywheel and the timing marks in the window of the pump are lined up. The dots are off center.

You originally posted it ran 300 hours after a rebuild then set 5 years. You further posted you got it to run some, but not correctly. You posted you had it on #1 compression and the timing pin was in the flywheel. You posted the pump marks were lined up in the window of the pump, at that point, before you took it off. You posted the pump was found to have major problems by the rebuilder. If you haven't turned the engine, the rebuilt pump should go right back on, the dots on the shaft and in the pump should line up as should the timing marks in the window. At this point in time I suggest you get the pump in hand and see how things line up before you worry about it or do anything to the shaft or gears. If things don't line up when you have the pump in hand, then you will be able to describe the problem, rather than trying to solve one that may not exist.

Just my thoughts, someone may have something different for you.
 
Also you say yours is a 1974 310-D. By JD info if it is a 1974, it is actually just a 310 with either a diesel or gasoline engine. Are you adding the D because it has a diesel engine? The 310 D didn't come out until 1991. Adding the D could cause you problems in getting some parts as the 310 and 310D have a number of differences.
 
It has 310-D on the tractor and 310-D stamped on the I.D. plate.
The tractor is running. I sent the pump out to ThePumpGuySC and he did a rebuild on it, said it was all messed up. Once installed the tractor is now running fine.

Now I need to work on the brakes. I have no brakes at all. One question about the brake fluid. Is it regular brake fluid like a DOT4 or does it use the hydraulic fluid? I have seen other forums that say its hydraulic fluid. Nothing in my manual says either or. I ask this question because the guy I bought it from said regular brake fluid, but I want to be 100% sure what goes in there.
Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:52 02/03/21) It has 310-D on the tractor and 310-D stamped on the I.D. plate.
The tractor is running. I sent the pump out to ThePumpGuySC and he did a rebuild on it, said it was all messed up. Once installed the tractor is now running fine.

Now I need to work on the brakes. I have no brakes at all. One question about the brake fluid. Is it regular brake fluid like a DOT4 or does it use the hydraulic fluid? I have seen other forums that say its hydraulic fluid. Nothing in my manual says either or. I ask this question because the guy I bought it from said regular brake fluid, but I want to be 100% sure what goes in there.
Thanks.

I am going to ask some questions to try to help you get the right info. If you would, please post the entire string of letters and numbers on your serial number tag. If you can post a picture of the tag that would good. The 310 has a D on the tag meaning diesel engine not D series 310. As I noted before the 310D did not come out until 1991 and you said yours is a 1974. There are differences over the years and one needs to be sure they are looking at the right one to get the right information and parts. You can't always go by decals.

What manual do you have? Name of the manual, publisher and publication number if you can. The proper JD manual addresses the brakes. You need the right machine identification to get the right manual(s) as well.

There are visible differences in the 310 and 310D. Which loader does yours look like, the first one or the second one?

mvphoto69313.jpg



mvphoto69314.jpg


As far as the brakes, I believe both use a brake valve that is feed from the tractor hydraulic system, you don't add fluid, it is plumbed in to the valve. The machine has wet disc brakes located at the inner end of the axle housings where they connect to the transmission/differential housing. You may have a valve problem, internal brake problems, or maybe they just need to be bled.
 
I didn't know about the whole D thing on the old tractors like that. So it looks like i have just the 310 John Deere.So if the guy actually put DOT brake fluid in there would it have messed it up? Is there a way to drain it out if he did? I would have to take some out to see if it is actual brake fluid or hydraulic fluid in there.
I am also having a hydraulic leak on top of the front loader controls. I will attach a pic, but is there and O ring in there that would need replaced?
mvphoto69479.jpg


mvphoto69480.jpg
The control on the left is the one that leaks the other side seems good at the moment. Could this leak make the front bucket drop and the backhoe arm want to keep falling slowly?

mvphoto69481.jpg
 

Yes, yours is a straight 310. Where it shows 310 - D, the D indicates an option. If it was as series designation, like a Series D it would be 310D on the tag, no spaces or dashes between the model number and series letter. This difference is important when you get parts for your machine.

Unless someone has done some serious design changes to the brake system, you do not add any fluid direct to the brakes. As I posted before, the brakes are plumbed into the tractor's hydraulic system. The brake valves receive oil under pressure from the hydraulic system. The valves, which the pedals connect to send oil to the disc pistons located inside the rear axle housings. If the previous owner did add some brake fluid at the valves, which I doubt he did, I don't think he could get enough in to damage anything. You should be using John Deere Hy-Gard fluid or other universal tractor transmission/hydraulic fluid meeting JDM spec J20C for wet brakes and transmission clutches.

There is a washer and O-ring, under the plate that is screwed to the top of the valve section, that is likely leaking. For the bucket to be dropping there would need to be a leak internally in the valve. While there may be some internal leaking from years of wear between the spool and valve body; it is much more likely the cylinders need to be repacked. There are no internal seals in the valve to replace. The valve bodies and spools are precision fit to each other and get replaced together.

The loader valve doesn't affect the backhoe functions. The backhoe has its own control valve for operating the backhoe functions. Again I think it is likely your backhoe arm cylinder needs to be repacked to stop internal leaking.

You really need to get yourself a set of manuals. Here are the manuals JD lists for a 310 at the JD Construction Equipment Technical information Bookstore. https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/
Operator's manual: OMT51923
Technical Manual: TM1036 (TM4290 for 310s and 410s is also listed and would be an option instead of the TM1036)
Parts Catalog: PC1226 ( you can use the JD on line parts catalogs at https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/
 
Mine is also a 1974 but a 310B, diesel with the backhoe section that slides left and right to fit into tight areas, 9500 backhoe.
Question. Regarding timing the pump, where do you get access to move the flywheel manually to position the pump at TDC. Is there an opening somewhere? I noticed there is a big metal piece (looks like a spacer) between the engine and hydraulic pump (attaches to the hydraulic pump to make it move), and there is a little hole/slot to put a piece of metal into to possibly move the crankcase. Is that where you turn over the crankcase manually? I don't want to break anything. Thanks on advance.

This post was edited by Tommi on 05/01/2022 at 07:20 pm.
 
Tommi,

Welcome to the forum.

You should start a new post for your question. This site uses two different views Modern and Classic. If one is using Modern view they see this entire thread, If they are using Classic the only see your post, none of the post you tagged on to. That is why, in Classic, Roy Suomi's reply shows up separately as an Re., as does this reply I am making to you in Modern. Classic sees them as stand alone posts due to the age of the original post you tagged on to.

Tell us the whole story here in a new post of your own. Are you just looking to check timing? Are you planning to remove the injection pump? Was the injection pump pulled off and you are trying to get it back in the right place? Sometimes it helps to know what is happening, we can't see it.

John Deere parts catalog says the 310B was built 1982 to 1986. 310A was 1976 t0 1986. The straight 310 was built 1970 to 1975 according to JD parts. Using that info you can not have a 1974 310B, it would be a straight 310. Does your serial number look like 310B or 310-B?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 05/02/2022 at 03:13 am.
 

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