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Hand clutch help

M

MikeGreen830

Member
I've inherited a JD 830 2 cylinder ES that has been sitting in a dilapidated barn for quite a few years. Went to pull back on the hand clutch and didn't get it pulled back with my first attempt. Gave it a little more umph and got it pulled back, heard the pop of it disengaging but now it will not pop back in. I can hold the handle forward and make the brake come off the pulley but if I let go, the handle just falls back and the brake will go back on the pulley with no pop.

The tractor is not running at the moment and I am a novice when it comes to working on it. Just hoping someone can diagnose what I may have going on here and get me going in the right direction.

Thanks in advance!
 
I had same problem with an A that had set too long. I pulled it apart and put it back together and it worked OK after adjustment. Don't know if the clutch discs swelled with moisture. I replaced them soon after on the "it can't hurt principal. Hopefully someone familiar with your tractor will jump in. The numbers are a lot different than the letters. Good luck! That's a monster tractor you got there!
 
Thank you for commenting. Yes it is! From between the ages of 14-21 I used to help my grandpa disc and plow with that tractor. People used to come from all over to have my grandpa work on their tractors. Just wish I would have been smart enough to stick my nose in there and learn how to work on them when I had the chance.
 
Mike...the common problem is that sliding friction disks are rusted/stuck to the rods that they are suppose to slide on. If they are the bonded friction
disks instead of the riveted friction disks, they probably are no longer bonded to the metal plate and they fall down and are misaligned. This causes
problems in trying to compress the clutch pack. You will need to pull the clutch pack apart and inspect each component. If the sliding disks are bad
replace them with the riveted type.
 
mike...there are 3 bonded double sided friction disks and two floating friction disks. Cost is $300+ for all five.
 
Is it possible that it would be worth worrying about the clutch AFTER you get the tractor running? Maybe it will all come around on its own
when running. Just a thought.
Arnie
 
Pull the clutch apart, clean the splines and toggles and put a light film of
grease on all the moving parts. Not so much that it throws off and gets on
the clutch facings. It's not rocket science. You'll be a lot happier if you
do. Check the dog bones for wear and polish the ends and the sockets they
sit in. Take your time and love what you're doing.
 

It is normal regular service to remove all pulley internals , clean , inspect , lube the bearing/pivots . Odds are the clutch was over due for service prior to it being parked .
 
I bought a 620 back in the eighties and the clutch was jumpy. Put the outer clutch discs in it at that time but didnt mess with the inner one. The clutch was still jumpy but I figured thats just the way it was.Took it all apart last winter and rebuilt the whole clutch.I cant believe how much better the clutch is now after I rebuilt it.
 
Mike here are some pics of the clutch on my 80. Just for fun stand along side the clutch, rap both hands under the belt pulley and lift up, you should feel no up and down movement, if you do you have a worn
bearing that rides on the crankshaft. Maybe this will get you headed in the right direction, like they said it's not rocket science.


cvphoto57933.jpg


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cvphoto57937.jpg


cvphoto57939.jpg


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cvphoto57941.jpg


cvphoto57942.jpg


cvphoto57943.jpg


cvphoto57944.jpg
 
Man, thank you for the pics Dan! You guys have given me some great information and a good idea of where to start and what to look for. I appreciate it!
 
Those pictures are great. here is a video series from Tyler that are really great too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySjdJk_Sj64
 
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