2010 throttle rod length

I'm having a devil of a time getting the throttle on my 2010 Wheel adjusted correctly, and while the first step of the procedure has you "adjust the rear control rod until the governor control lever contacts the firewall", there is absolutely no way this is possible on my tractor while the front control rod (the long part that runs along the gas tank) is installed. The bellcrank bottoms out a few inches before, even with the rod adjusted as short as possible and the governor linkage removed, and best case I end up with a large dead spot at the bottom end and thus a very short throttle range.

I did note that the parts diagram shows the bellcrank end of the rod (T18579) having a clevis clip , whereas mine has a cotter pin with a hole. There also appears to be a handful of different revisions of the linkage/governor throughout the history, and the 'newer' one (T18942) shows the cotter pin setup, so i'm wondering if somewhere along the line a wrong, longer rod got installed somehow. Information about either, however, is scarce.

Does anyone know what the overall length of the early-model throttle rod should be, or roughly what the position of the bellcrank for both the idle and full throttle should look like? I feel like something is wrong somewhere.

Thanks

-sb

If you don't already have a service manual, you can probably look at this link:https://archive.org/details/John_Deere_2000_Series_Tractor_Technical_Service_Manual_/page/n1/mode/2up If that doesn't help,I can take some pictures of mine and send to you.

Thanks, i do have the service manual but between all the various combinations it doesn't really help much in identifying parts (all my throttle linkages came jumbled in a box with the tractor, so who knows what's right and what's wrong). I know it's probably not convenient, but if you happen to be in a position to measure the overall length of the front control rod (i.e. from the bell crank at the front, back to the governor control level by the battery), i would very much like to check to make sure mine is roughly the same (assuming you have an early model, also). But pictures that correlate bell crank position to throttle position would also be a great help to guesstimate a good starting point.

Thank you very much for your response

The various combinations?
How are we suppose to know what combination that you have?

I have adjusted the linkage on my 2010 as per the manual with no issues. I even reviewed the manual again using the link that was provided and all the info is there.

Yes you will need to know if you have a JD or a Pierce Governor, however no one here knows which one you have. Also, you need to review the section about the Speed Control Linkage to set the long rod that you are referencing. It does reference a serial number, then again we don't know what the serial number is.

This information is based on a gas engine.....

Sorry for not clarifying, it is a early gasoline model, S/N 27040, with the foot throttle option, so it has the Pierce governor with the arch-shaped bellcrank (AT15060) instead of the more triangular one (AT16599). Presumably the 'governor improvement kit' shown as item 15 on page 31 of PC731 has not been installed.

I have been following the procedure on page 70-10-7 of SM-2036, however the only reference to adjusting the front control rod is for S/N >29000. In any case though, the front control rod is simply too long to allow the control lever to touch the firewall at one end while also inserted into the bellcrank at the other (as specified in the previous step), even with the rod shortened at the lever end as much as possible. Moreover, even when I get it as close as possible, the bellcrank is then rotated so far over at the low end that the governor control rod can't be shortened enough to attach to the governor. When I try thing in reverse (by positioning the bellcrank and governor control lever to roughly what's shown in pictures), there is only a few degrees of rotation in the hand throttle between idle and the steering column detent.

I have zero confidence in any of the parts that were installed previously, and it wouldn't be the first time a previous owner had simply replaced something with whatever was handy at the time (or even manufactured his own), however I can't find any reference that specifies what the overall length of the rod should actually be.

Thank you for you advice and continued help

Looking at the parts catalog, it appears that they used the same control rod on the 2010's.

I measured mine, its about 26-3/4" to 26-7/8" from center of pin to center of pin.

Hopefully this will help

Thank you so much, that's incredibly helpful. Based on that, the rod installed on mine is almost definitely not correct; the adjustment threads on lever end don't even start until after 27" from the bend, so when you add in the nut and the swivel, the minimum possible is really ends up more as 27-1/2" to 28". I'm going to thread another inch or two on the rod and adjust it down to what you measured, and hopefully that will fix everything (until i find out the rod going to the carb is also wrong.....)

Thank you again for your help

-sb