520 power steering

Got steering pedestal tore down, steering was working but leaking fluid. The rubber seals on the vanes look good should I replace or reuse? Where is good place to get reasonably priced o rings and seals for the pedestal?
 
(quoted from post at 07:16:58 06/23/20) Got steering pedestal tore down, steering was working but leaking fluid. The rubber seals on the vanes look good should I replace or reuse? Where is good place to get reasonably priced o rings and seals for the pedestal?

The last I checked DEERE still had all the O-rings and seals available, and I don't recall any being real expensive except the vane seals, but how could you consider NOT replacing them while you are in there?
 
Very good chance that the vane seals are not leaking but wore out makes a very good point. Now keep in mind that I do not always replace everything when I replace seals in a pedestal mostly because the whole kit is NLA and very hard to find as well as pricey. Last I checked, a couple years ago you could still get individual parts from the kit at your local dealer. I would be tempted to do as you are thinking just because those vane seals have to be the most difficult part of rebuilding the pedestal.

Just completed adding PS to my high seat 60 std. Although I did completely rebuild the pedestal some other (sleeping dogs) things were not touched. So far so good as I am satisfied with how the PS operates.
 
Did re-core the radiator as I knew that would come back to bite me if I did not.
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I was able to get all seals and gaskets through my JD dealer individually for around $130 if I remember right. My general rule for when I have something apart is replace all seals and o rings
 
I did my 720 2 or 3 years ago, dealer had vane seals and orings in stock, I was out the door for about $42. Make sure you get new stock, not some that have been on the shelf for 5+ years. Mine were dated earlier the year I got them. Has no leaks now.
 
I just finished my John Deere 730 row crop. All of the seals and gaskets including the seals for the vanes were probably under $70. Local dealer actually had most everything in stock. Basically there is an "O" ring and paper backer below and above what I think they call the cylinder, a cork seal at the very bottom below the thrust bearing, and a couple gaskets under the steering valve casting which also act as shims. Also, the rectangular seals on the vanes. I warmed the vane seals up in boiling water and used a small screw driver to work them over the vanes. They seem to cool off very fast. I didn't break any although I have been told by a two cylinder mechanic that he commonly will break one. That just about covers it. The same John Deere mechanic that does quite a few of these power steering units said that the thrust ball bearing as well as the other two sleeve bearings are rarely worn enough to require replacement. I did have to buy one more shim washer that goes under the sector gear to arrive at the correct end play on the spindle. I thought the John Deere power steering oil was priced high at around $8.50 - $9.00 a quart or so. But then I got to looking at quarts of power steering fluid at automotive parts places and some cost more than the John Deere oil. So, John Deere two cylinder power steering oil went back in. The power steering rebuild wasn't really very hard to do. Good luck.
 
Did a 60 PS overhaul this winter. Deere had everything which I recommend you doing. Was around 200$ and I got a few extra things while I was there so the PS stuff is probably cheaper. Get extra vane seals. I use a pot and put them in 30W oil and heat plate them for 15 min to make them pliable.
 
In addition to using warm oil on the vane seals, I smeared the vane with grease. Also took the time to file down any sharp edges on the vanes. Getting the seal over the last corner of the vane is the hardest part. I filed down the corner a little to minimize the risk of cutting it. I used o-ring spoons to work the seal on. There's lots of little tricks that make rebuilding one of these easier.
 

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