John Deere 3010 Hydraulic De-stroke

Rick3 · Jun 22, 2020

See the following URL for questions/ discussion on a JD 3010 Propane tractor that lost hydraulics to the front loader and 3 point. My main question is the manual shows a shut off screw (de-stroke) on the bottom of the pump. There is a screw there but have been told it may be the pressure adjustment screw for the pump. Ive also read that there are de-stroke screws with a T handle and some with Allen head I’ve attached pics... Could this be the de-stroke screw?

JD 3010 De stroke

tomstractorsandtoys · Jun 22, 2020

No the screw you have is to adjust hyd pump pressure. Tom

Rick3 · Jun 22, 2020

Ok good! Thank you for your reply!

matthies · Jun 22, 2020

I didn't go back and check the last post, but I would put a gauge in one of the remote couplers and check pressure, and then adjust the pump with the an allan wrench. Loosen the jam nut with a 3/4 wrench then slowly turn in the screw with allan wrench. Will need to hold lever to get pressure the the gauge. Had one similar to this, friend talked to the CSR man at the local Deere dealer, a car mechanic that didn't work with tractors much, anyway he told friend to check priority valve under the cowl/hood since he lost the hydraulics like you did, I chucked and he demanded me to look at it, so I did and found nothing, showed him the parts. So we put that back together and said lets try my fix. Did what i told you to do, hydraulics came back and was done. All I said was easy wasn't it.

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

I guess I’m hard headed and couldn’t get it through my head that was not a destroke until Tom posted last night. Just couldn’t figure out why the book showed it as a destroke BUT I was laying there in bed last night and thought “what’s it going to hurt to try screwing it in (with gauges) and see if it does anything?”... then your post just confirmed my thought! I won’t be back at tractor for a couple/ maybe few days but will definitely check that and report back. Thank you for the response! I’ll let y’all know the outcome.

620 John · Jun 23, 2020

Just an FYI. If you ever want to add a de-stroke screw there's two different types out there. One is longer than the other. I don't know which screw is used with which pumps but if you find a short one and you need a long one the short can be built up with a little weld and ground down to fit.

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

Thank you!

WTW · Jun 23, 2020

Rick, The top Photo is the pump pressure adjusting screw as Tom stated. The bottom picture is the destroking screw. Where thing are confusing is the original pump in the 3010 the destrokeing screw is on the bottom and adjuster was on top / opposite of each other in same bore. Later replacement pumps the internal stroke control valve and these two features were revered from top to bottom, like 20 series and later pumps are. If your tractor does not have the destroke screw you simply remove plug on opposite side of adjusting screw and swap it with destroking screw that is readily available. As previously stated there is two different ones used depending on pump cover. DW

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

Thank you for the clarification! It sounds like the pump on this tractor is a replacement pump... I will get a destroke screw and install in the top location.

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

Thank you for keeping me straight!

WTW · Jun 23, 2020

Rick, The destroking screw is a real good thing on hard / cold starting tractors. To use it correctly, when you want to shut pump off, loosen thumb screw and you will feel it turn easy for two or three turns before you will feel it contact internal stroke control valve. Once you feel it touch the internal valve only give it and additional 1/4 of turn. Do not crank down on screw hard as it is not necessary. All you have to do is crack the stroke control valve open! This method will prolong the life of the destroking screw and prevent unnecessary damage to internal stroke control valve. Enjoy! DW

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

Thanks for the tip. Just checked my pressure at rear remote. Had 700+. Do I need to adjust stroke valve up while pressure is showing on gauge/ with lever engaged or with lever down/ disengaged and just turn 1/4 at a time?

WTW · Jun 23, 2020

Rick, If standby pressure is that low good chance adjustment may not bring up to normal stall limit. Should take a turn or less to get it in range. Most often this is caused by a worn out / leaking stoke control valve. The valve and seat can be replaced in tractor if you know how to do it as I have done it many many times on many different models. The seat and valve is a assembly that is matched set. Kinda pricey but common to replace them on older tractors. If pressure cannot be achieved that is where I would go next. Set it to 2250 psi. DW

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

I think I should clarify my earlier post... my question was meant to say when adjusting the pressure adjustment screw, do you check the pressure and leave the lever engaged so you can physically see the pressure go up As you turn the screw or do you check the pressure then disengage the lever, gauge goes to zero and adjust the screw clockwise some then recheck the pressure? I tried adjusting it up with it disengaged then rechecking the pressure but probably didn’t turn more than one full turn with no gain in pressure.

Rick3 · Jun 23, 2020

I envision springs and small parts flying toward my face under that tractor! LOL! What you are saying makes sense... I am wondering why the front loader really has no reaction whatsoever... maybe due to weight?! Or is it that the real problem lies with the loader valve.

Tx Jim · Jun 24, 2020

Adjusting stand-by pressure with or without a hyd control lever activated should be immaterial IE the results for pressure should be the same when gauge is activated

Rick3 · Jun 24, 2020

Thanks Tx. Jim! When I plugged in the gauge to the rear remote and started the tractor, there was no pressure until I engaged the lever. Should there be 2250 pressure 100% when
tractor is running?

Tx Jim · Jun 24, 2020

There should be pressure on gauge when control lever is moved in correct direction. When lever is moved to neutral position pressure should hold steady but may fall slowly or fast depending on how good the poppet valves are seating.

Rick3 · Jun 24, 2020

I’m getting zero Psi without the lever activated and only 700 with it activated.

wore out · Jun 24, 2020

(quoted from post at 16:16:57 06/24/20) Iâ€™m getting zero Psi without the lever activated and only 700 with it activated.

You said "I scooped up a big load of gravel and took it/ dumped it and was going to back drag it with loader but it wouldn’t respond except to go down" and "used red" offered a good suggestion that something could have happened to the loader valve.

Have capped off the feed yet to the loader valve?

Until you you this, to be absolutely sure there isn't a high pressure leak to return there your tests at the remote couplings really don't mean anything, and there's no valid reason to wrench on the pressure control on the pump.

That being said, it may well be that the loader valve is just fine and the trouble IS in the pump, but IMHO, it would be prudent to rule out the loader valve BEFORE pursuing changes to the pump.

Rick3 · Jun 24, 2020

Yes that is on the agenda. I wound up down thereyesterday and had a few minutes to mess with it. Got the right gauge fitting for the rear remotes and checked it. It’s probably going to be a couple weeks before I’m able to go back and take the loader out of the equation. I appreciate everyone’s help as I narrow down the cause of this issue.

postia · Jun 25, 2020

(quoted from post at 05:14:00 06/24/20)
There should be pressure on gauge when control lever is moved in correct direction. When lever is moved to neutral position pressure should hold steady but may fall slowly or fast depending on how good the poppet valves are seating.

Hi Jim,

SCV #2 on my 4030 goes to ~ 2400 lbs when engaging the lever but drops off to just a couple hundred lbs within a few seconds of returning the lever to neutral. Probably not coincidentally, the loader's tilt function is plugged into that SCV and tilts forward on its own when the tractor is running and lever is in neutral position. You said if pressure falls quickly then poppet valves aren't seating well. Can you be a little more specific about what I need to do to stop that SCV from losing pressure when returning lever to neutral?

Thank you!

Tx Jim · Jun 25, 2020

Welcome to YT
Your tractor's scv probably needs 1 or more of the poppet valves replaced & valve clearance adjusted. Each scv has 4 poppet valves. Tim S a long time member of this forum can perform this task & check for leakage on his test bench

postia · Jun 25, 2020

(quoted from post at 08:48:24 06/25/20)
Welcome to YT
Your tractor's scv probably needs 1 or more of the poppet valves replaced & valve clearance adjusted. Each scv has 4 poppet valves. Tim S a long time member of this forum can perform this task & check for leakage on his test bench

Not something a guy with questionable intelligence whose most sophisticated tools are a pair of vise grips should tackle, huh?

When my sagging loader bucket has me sufficiently frustrated, I'll have to get in touch with Mr. Sweeney.

Thanks again, really appreciate your guidance!

Rick3 · Jul 8, 2020

Follow up... I was back at it over the weekend. Messing with the stroke control adjustment. Got it up to 1500 psi when engaging the lever for the rear remotes where the gauge was plugged in. When disengaged, it went back down to about 700 to 900. I also took the loader loose/ capped the connection and tried it with no noticeable change. I have a destroke screw ordered which is the next move. If that doesn’t do it, I’m going to replace the stroke control valve. Do you know of any instructions or YouTube videos on how to replace the stroke control valve?

Rick3 · Jul 10, 2020

Follow up... I was back at it over the weekend. Messing with the stroke control adjustment. Got it up to 1500 psi when engaging the lever for the rear remotes where the gauge was plugged in. When disengaged, it went back down to about 700 to 900. I also took the loader loose/ capped the connection and tried it with no noticeable change. I have a destroke screw ordered which is the next move. If that doesn’t do it, I’m going to replace the stroke control valve. Do you know of any instructions or YouTube videos on how to replace the stroke control valve?

Tx Jim · Jul 10, 2020

I don;t know of any U-tube video's but I'm not a very good internet searcher.

Rick3 · Jul 10, 2020

I’ve looked high and low on YouTube and Google and haven’t found much of anything even in the videos of the pump rebuilds. Thanks for the response!

Rick3 · Jul 18, 2020

WTW... I ordered a destroke screw and went to put it in today but it is too large... the plug right above the stroke control valve is 11/16 bolt head and the threads are about 1/2. Do you know which destroke screw I should order?

John Deere 3010 Hydraulic De-stroke

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