Deere 2010 - Control valve leaking at seam.

Guys, first off a big thanks to the guys that helped me get the power steering hose replaced on the ol' 2010 this week. I was back up and running yesterday after successful surgery.

However... During the test run, I noticed that that what I believe is called the remote control valve (see pictures for location) is oozing oil from a seam along the cover both on the front and back side.

I believe this is the part I'm pointing to in the pics: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/83226/referrer/navigation/pgId/61475

It is leaking at the seam between key 3 and key 20 in the diagram.


Qustion: On the diagram there is no gasket, so what can be done to stop this leak? Is it the O rings parts 4,5,6 in the diagram?

How diffcult are these to replace with the valve still on the tractor?

Many thanks. Appreciate all the help.

Grouse
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Yes, you've got it figured out about the O-rings.

O-rings 27, 28, and 29 will need to be replaced, as well, as the "stack" comes apart when you take the "through bolts" out, and if they didn't leak before, likely they will now, of not replaced.

Is yours a single valve, or does it have two valves?

If two valves you'll need to get 2 of each of the seal rings. Note the serial # break as to more of the #29 rings being used after #29,000.

It won't be a fun job, but I think you can do it with the valve in place. Been over 20 years since I've worked on that part of a 2010.

Use a little heavy grease to keep all the seal rings in place as you stack the parts.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:03 06/20/20) Yes, you've got it figured out about the O-rings.

O-rings 27, 28, and 29 will need to be replaced, as well, as the "stack" comes apart when you take the "through bolts" out, and if they didn't leak before, likely they will now, of not replaced.

Is yours a single valve, or does it have two valves?

If two valves you'll need to get 2 of each of the seal rings. Note the serial # break as to more of the #29 rings being used after #29,000.

Use a little heavy grease to keep all the seal rings in place as you stack the parts.

Thanks, WO. It's a single valve.

Quick questions, please. If I take out the bolts (key 1), does the "stack" just come apart like layers on a wedding cake with nothing flying out or falling out in pieces?

The diagram makes it look like you can take the cover (Key 3) and the housing (key 20) off and the sub assembelies wlll mostly stay intect without parts flying all over. Is that mostly the case?

Last question. The diagram does a terrible job of showing where all these o-rings actually go. I'm assuming there's recesses where each one "fits"?

I'm worried about this because it's leaking badly enough I'm thinking some of the o rings might just be gone so nothing to clue me in on what goes where.

Many thanks again. Your help got Big John back into the land of the living, he was in the field again on Friday with that new power steering line.

BTW, that fitting down on the pump is almost easy to get off with a crowfoot wrench connected to a HF indexable 3/8 ratchet. I mention that because it would as you said be almost freaking impossible to get it off/on any other way.

We managed to get that fitting off by holding a stubby wrench on the fitting from above and then a second guy (me) laid on the ground and got a pry bar against the wrench working from below with the hydro pump cover off. Looking at that fiitting then I was thinking dang, should have brought the crowsfoot wrenches and this would have been easy, so I had them along when we put it back together. Took 2 minutes to tighten that fitting.

Grouse
 
Nothing will fly apart as you take the layers of base and valve and cover apart.

Where the O-rings go will be apparent when you get it apart, as there is a "recess" or "pocket" where each one fits.

As long as you have enough on hand to cover the possible differences by serial number this should not be tough deal.
 
(quoted from post at 12:58:35 06/21/20) Nothing will fly apart as you take the layers of base and valve and cover apart.

Where the O-rings go will be apparent when you get it apart, as there is a "recess" or "pocket" where each one fits.

As long as you have enough on hand to cover the possible differences by serial number this should not be tough deal.

Thanks, WO.

Unbelievably, for Deere parts, the O rings aren't outrageously expensive.

I'm going to double up on the ones that vary by s# so I'm sure I have enough. Plus I'll bring my o-ring kit that has 50 or so other sizes, that way is something goes sideways I might be able to find a same or close fit.

Hopefully this is a can-do fix because it would save a lot of lost fluid. I'll give it a shot anyway. Thanks for your help, you basically saved this tractor. I know I'm going to have to start searching for a replacment, but the 2010 is really a handy tractor to have around.

Grouse
 
Update on this. Just like to close the loop and say thanks.

Got all the seals replaced in the control block and she's leak-free now. This is a big improvement as the leaks were losing a lot of hydro fluid.

Big thanks to Wore Out for your replies. I owe you.

Also thanks to everyone who replied about the power steering line that I had to replace on the old 2010. That repair was also successful and a local hydro shop rebuilt the line for me for $85, so big savings over the OEM part.

Big John was back in the fields last week pulling the disc to prep for radish planting and I cut 5 acres of clover, so he's been tested and the repairs are good.

Now if there was just an easier way to access the under side of the console without 3 hours of disassembly...

Grouse
 

Grouse, thanks for posting back!

Glad you got the steering hose and hydraulic valve leaks fixed.

Lots of guys HATE the 2010's, I sort of have a soft spot for them, they are not DEERE's best machine ever, but they really weren't any worse than some of the competing makes of the same era.

There's a diesel nearby that I used to work on for a long-time customer, he passed away several years ago, I've tried many times to buy it, but his widow can't part with it. It's almost like she believes he will becoming back for it.

It sits in an old barn that will soon fall on it if she doesn't let it go, or at least find another place to keep it.

But that's the way it goes with old tractors! (And old widows!)
 
(quoted from post at 10:18:26 07/08/20)
Grouse, thanks for posting back!

Glad you got the steering hose and hydraulic valve leaks fixed.

Lots of guys HATE the 2010's, I sort of have a soft spot for them, they are not DEERE's best machine ever, but they really weren't any worse than some of the competing makes of the same era.

There's a diesel nearby that I used to work on for a long-time customer, he passed away several years ago, I've tried many times to buy it, but his widow can't part with it. It's almost like she believes he will becoming back for it.

It sits in an old barn that will soon fall on it if she doesn't let it go, or at least find another place to keep it.

But that's the way it goes with old tractors! (And old widows!)

Yes a lot of hate gets heaped on the 2010. Not Deeres best effort to be sure but like I keep telling people it's lasted 55 years. How bad of a tractor can it really be?

The other problem most people don't understand is that when you need a tractor choices are not unlimited if you're buying used. I needed a tractor with a loader and around these parts utility tractors with loaders are hard to find. The 2010 came up for sale and the price was reasonable so I went for it. so far I fixed more things that just amount to redoing old rigging jobs and farmer fixes rather than stuff that was actually wrong with the tractor.

Many thanks again for your help.

Grouse
 
(quoted from post at 08:57:13

Yes a lot of hate gets heaped on the 2010. Not Deeres best effort to be sure but like I keep telling people it's lasted 55 years. How bad of a tractor can it really be?
Grouse

Back when 2010's were nearly new there was this saying about them.

One can't break a good 2010 & can't fix a bad 2010
 

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