1981 JD2240 The beginning Adventure or nightmare

Bob_VT

Member
Hello First post. 1981 4wd JD2240 (with a 145 loader) was given to me. It is an adventure and a nightmare at the same time. It has sat for over 6 years but after installing a starter and some hot wiring I have that diesel running.
It had been left out in the weather and the clutch has issues. Mice built a HUGE nest inside the clutch housing and now there is significant rust.
Yesterday I decided to give it the old school try and I started it in R and then hit the brakes (They don't work either) and Parking brake which stopped and stalled the motor. I believe the clutch is still stuck.
Now it will not move in any gear, no grinding - nothing. I am at a loss.

Now this is my first farm tractor but I do have experience with heavy equipment. I am not afraid to try anything and wanted to see if I could break the clutch loose w/o splitting the tractor.

I do have a service manual from JD on hand.
My goals are to make this usable but just for chores. The lifting arms need to be welded (someone tried before and they are cracked)again. I probably need new rear wheels because they are so corroded from chloride/rust.

So my needs list:
1- get it operable so I can move it around
2-repair the electrical system since NOTHING works (running it hotwired)
3-change all fluids and fix leaks - it leaks everywhere probably from sitting I think seals are dried
4-absolutely needs a bell crank which is down the road
5- Wheels/tires and the list goes on

Yep, trying to do it myself since I don't have the funds to expend.

Just a side note - I put on an aftermarket starter which required that the loaded be removed. My 3/4" impact gun or breaker bars would not move the bolts so I sliced them all off and replaced them with new grade 8's (And never-seize).
 

Welcome to YT
Does your 2240 have a lever on dash on LH side of steering wheel? Lever in question if present would control a hyd operated reverser or hi-lo which could be the reason tractor won't move under it's own power or center hub of clutch disk could have stripped out. Handbrake on 2240 indicates serial number is above 350,000. I will suggest you acquire a JD 2240 technical manual. If hyd fluid is milky you should change the fluid & check/clean sump screen(key 15).

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No. It is all manual. The only lever on the dash is the throttle on the right side. (a non-functional light switch on the left)

I do know the clutch was replaced and the Hyd Pump rebuilt by a JD dealer about 7 years ago
 
Sorry meant to add in..... The fluid is clean but it was low

Yes I have the JD service manual at home (at work right now)
 
Once you get it running and moving,
check to see if the 4wd works. The
front axles are not known to be too
robust, especially on a loader
tractor. Parts are very expensive if
even available. Hate to see you put a
bunch of money in the tractor only to
find the front end is toast
 

I know that the 4wd is electric / hydraulic and that really will not be discovered until I get the electrical working. This poor thing has been neglected and not taken care of so I am going one step at a time.
 
You should just plan on splitting to fix
the clutch. Mouse pea is very corrosive.
 
UPDATE - I finally got the time to make progress - I split the tractor in half and found that the carrier and throw out bearing were seized solid. The bushings on the clutch shaft are shot too.

I have a new carrier and throw out ordered along with the bushings.

Now the questions - As I mentioned earlier the clutch was replaced in 2011 but this poor thing sat neglected. The clutch disc is great, cleaned up the rust and corrosion from the mice (wow!). The clutch was replaced by a JD Dealer and I come to find out it is an aftermarket 11" clutch.

The adjusting bolts are shot so I tried to order new ones.... not happening so I ordered grade 8 24tpi bolts that I will cut to proper length (Have lathe access) so I can adjust the pressure plate.

[b:5c06b850af]What adjustment do I use for the fingers? 1.8" as stated for an OEM or is there a different spec for the aftermarket?[/b:5c06b850af]

The more I look around - the more problems I uncover.

The water pump pulley wobbles and the bolts are tight - no leaks- Is there a replaceable bearing? I have access to a mill so I am not afraid to try and repair it.

The dealer rebuilt the hydraulic pump too in 2001 and it too leaks badly.

The bell crank is absolutely shot but I will wait until I re-assemble the halves but that's a major high priority repair too.

Got a bunch of welding to do on the 145 loader arms too - I can see this 2240 was abused.

All the fluids/filters will be changed and screens cleaned too.

Now here is a real question - what transmission do I have? I do not have a reverser I just have two sticks - I have seen various shift patterns on the net but honestly I am confused.

Its funny to see what has been neglected and what grease fittings were never touched. That will not happen with me. I even intend on throwing a coat of paint on things.

I am also looking for new rear wheels because the old wheels are really rusted .....

Stay healthy!
 

You stated this tractor didn't have hyd hi-lo so it can have an 8 speed collar shift or 8 speed synchronized trans(TSS). Look at serial number tag to ID type of trans.

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It has a Q so that answers that. Thank You

Yes next week I will make an alignment shaft and set up the clutch and probably go with the factory settings. What I removed was nowhere near the factory settings.
 
HELP!!! I assembled the tractor which was not too difficult but.... it takes ALL of my strength to compress the clutch pedal. That does not seem correct.

Where do I go from here?

Some background -
11" aftermarket clutch - plate was in great shape
Installed a new throw out bearing and carrier
Installed new adjustment bolts for the 3 fingers while the clutch was attached to the tractor

I am at wits end....
 
More to the above post.....

All the fingers were adjusted to 1.8 inches

and there is adjustment available to get the throw out completely away from the fingers
 
I think I may have found the issue but I need the thickness of the JDE-143 special tool to set up the clutch

Anyone?
 
UPDATE - Okay it's assembled but the clutch is REAL HARD to push I will continue to connect the parts and give it a test when it's ready.

If the clutch works then it is onto the Bell Crank then the water pump...... and the welding on the 145 lift arms.
 
Got it working :D

Gave the tractor a very deserved pressure washing and now it is onto the Bell Crank
 
What has been accomplished -

The clutch is working perfectly (new throw out bearing and carrier)

The water pump was rebuilt (wow it gave my hydraulic press a good workout to push out the old shaft)

New fan belt since I was in there

New oil change/filter and fuel filter

Ahhh the bell crank - well the piece the bell crank is attached to was oval shaped and the bearing was destroyed and race cracked. I mounted that HEAVY piece onto the bridport and milled out the hole to a perfect circle. Used a steel piece of pipe in the lathe and cut that to match the new diameter. Then bored that out to provide a pressure fit for the new bearing races. Assembly went well and the front end is not tight. The local JD dealer quoted me $1400 for the repair and I did it myself for under $250 counting the steel, new bearings and seals. Absolutely not a job I would want to do on a regular basis.

Next is onto mounting a little bit better used rubber and get them filled with rim guard. The chloride does quite a job on the steel stuff and rust is always bad in VT.

Next on the list is to replace most of the wiring possibly a new harness.
 

All three pulleys have to be in new condition. Odds are the alternator and fan pulley's were ruined from slippage and a worn belt. The crank pulley could be worn too.
When I installed a new water pump on my 1640 because somebody over tightened the belt to prevent slippage with a worn belt and pulleys. The pulley had to be slid on the pump shaft to line up with the crank pulley. The alternator also needed shimming to have the pulleys and belt run true when tensioned.
You have more patience than I do.
 
Funny you should mention the pulleys...... The 1st time I tried to put it together I found out that the waterpump pulley was not pressed in deep enough to allow the fan to clear the radiator so....yup took it all apart (wasted that gasket set) and re-pressed it in the hydraulic press to obtain the proper clearance. Additionally the Alternator mount is forward and rearward adjustable however the oil filter has to be removed to do the adjustments. Yes, I have perfect alignment now.

Fishing taught me patience and the COVID19 lockdown provided me with the time ;)
 
It's the piece that connects the steering linkage to the front end. The bell crank on mine really did not go bad but where the bearings went through the piece that attaches to the front axle the hole was oval shaped Where I bored it out made a sleeve
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Basically this is the bell crank on my 4wd. Good luck finding the parts on the JD parts listings

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Your tractors serial # tag appears to be original.I located this MFWD in PC7063 that controls frt wheels with old style steering arm & drag link but I haven't located center brackets or bell crank as shown in your photos.

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Wow that was an adventure!!!
Starter
Seat
Water pump rebuilt
New belt
Oil change
Coat of paint
New carrier and throw out bearing
New clutch bolts
Newer used tires for the rear with Rim Guard
New used rear wheel
Paint
Welding on lift arms and brackets

Here is a before and a few after shots




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