45 Loader cylinder disassembly

Dan in Ohio and anyone else that knows...

The 45 loader on my 60 leaks pretty good out of the front of the cylinders (where the rod goes through). I bought lip seals and O rings to seal it up. I don't really want to disassemble the whole thing just to do it, am I right that I can block up the loader, un pin and retract the cylinders, then take that cap off to replace?

Looks like just a roll pin for the yoke, and then the 3 nuts on the tie rods and it should come off, right?

It looks simple, but I haven't had a simple job go easy yet on this tractor. Some rewiring ended up killing my good charging system, and a new regulator hasn't fixed it, yet I bypass it and it works just fine. Ugh.

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Brandon
 
Brandon,
My recommendation is to take the cylinders off the loader and work on a bench as it is handy to have access to a press. Blocking up that loader sounds dangerous to me. When I worked on mine I did two loaders 45 and 45W at the same time taking cylinders off and leaving the loader on the tractors. I believe it would be easier and safer in the long run.


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Be safe and work in the comfort of your shop out of the sun, the rest is fun. LOL

Dan
 
That roll pin that Dan shows in his last picture should fit tightly. On one of my loaders for some reason they were only finger tight. You can run a safety wire through the center of the roll pin and wrap/tie it around the outside to prevent it from working out.

I agree with Dan about removing the cylinders to work on them. Once you start taking it apart you might as well redo the piston too.
 
When I mention blocking up the loader, I meant to rest it with the bucket slightly off the ground, so that the cylinders could be retracted enough to be removed, not really working under it. Though I do have a set of C Channel made to hold the loader up in the air during winter storage so it takes up less space. Those slip over the cylinder rods and then the weight rests on the C channel. That wouldn't work for the job I need to do.

What part of the cylinder requires a press?

Now if you can get the kingpins out of my 80, that would be awesome

Brandon
 
Just took a look at my loader and think what you plan to do would work safely. Knowing you are about half my age negates the pain in knees and back that will result from your method. Let us know what you decide, hope it goes good.
Dan
 
Yup BTDT. I'm pretty sure on mine I cut the o-ring in the cap but the dust seal was okay. I only have one hydraulic hose going to the lift cylinders so there's no oil on the rod side of the piston. I'm thinking maybe a guy could cut a piece of small rod or even a bolt to fill in the roll pin hole so the o-ring doesn't get cut when you slide the cap on. Grease everything up good for reassembly.
 
50/50 chance you will disturb the other end of the barrel while the tie rods are loose and you are trying to get the gland off or on. Then that O-ring on that end of the barrel should be replaced. I'm with the take it off and re seal it completely group. Having it off may well turn out simpler, and easier, than trying to do it with one end still hooked to the loader.
 

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