3020D clutch adjustment while on tractor

My clutch isn't fully releasing, it is an SR tractor. I have both a shop and a service manual for it but both only talk about adjusting the assembly with it off the tractor and using the JD setup tool.
This was my Dad's tractor, it had not been used for several years before he passed. I had it towed to my house after he passed and started going through it. I got it looking pretty good externally but it has never shifted properly since I've had it. I rebuilt the entire gear selector setup, rods, levers etc thinking that was it but nope. The only way it will shift at all if if I "preload" the clutch pedal to the point where the fingers are always riding on the release bearing, that won't last long term so once I set the clutch pedal with the 1 inch of slack it is supposed to have, it won't shift into any gear at all. Shifts beautifully when the engine is stopped though.
In my searches, I found info on here of an on-tractor adjustment where you used something flexible that was 1/8th inch and you would "adjust them to 1/8th inch clearance". I've included a pic, you're supposed to loosen the 2 nuts which are locked together, then adjust for 1/8th between the pressure plate and the release arm pad? If so, the pad is sort of curved, where on the pad should the measurement be taken?

Appreciate any assistance
mvphoto55791.jpg


mvphoto55792.jpg


mvphoto55793.jpg
 
While this method can be done, it will not change your problem if the levers are all adjusted the same now. Adjust the pedal free travel so it is next to nothing and check all 3 levers to the bearing with a feeler gauge. If they are all close to the same, you likely have something in the clutch dragging. Could be mouse nest or dirt/grease. Could even be a broken adjusting bolt.
 
I changed out the pro fingers on my 4020 and got them adjusted through the bottom so I expect you could adjust the engine clutch through the bottom. I would start by spraying the clutch area with parts cleaner letting it soak then power wash the clutch area with the tractor running. Carefully inspect the fingers for damage, if one is damaged or bent it will not release. Check the pins. Can you start and run it with the tractor in gear and the clutch down. The clutch disk could be damaged. Maybe time to split. Be careful!
 
As bad as it looks in there I am betting the boot for the pto linkage is bad and water is entering. Causing your clutch disk to stick to the flywheel and pressure plate. I just did a 3020 for this last week. With the clutch pedal held down, take the timing cover off of the right side of the clutch housing. Rotate the flywheel to get to the openings of the flywheel. With a prybar or long screw driver pry the pressure plate away from the clutch disk, once loose(might have to rotate the engine 1 revolution), move to the next opening and pry again. Then put tractor in gear and pry the flywheel(rotate it) to see if the disk is loose from the pressure plate and flywheel. Then get on the tractor and see if it is any better. Worked for me, this tractor was sitting out for a year and we had the guy push start us in gear and we drove it home a mile before I did this. Then it sat for a week and when I moved it couldn't tell there was ever a problem. chris
 
(quoted from post at 20:57:22 06/02/20) As bad as it looks in there I am betting the boot for the pto linkage is bad and water is entering. Causing your clutch disk to stick to the flywheel and pressure plate. I just did a 3020 for this last week. With the clutch pedal held down, take the timing cover off of the right side of the clutch housing. Rotate the flywheel to get to the openings of the flywheel. With a prybar or long screw driver pry the pressure plate away from the clutch disk, once loose(might have to rotate the engine 1 revolution), move to the next opening and pry again. Then put tractor in gear and pry the flywheel(rotate it) to see if the disk is loose from the pressure plate and flywheel. Then get on the tractor and see if it is any better. Worked for me, this tractor was sitting out for a year and we had the guy push start us in gear and we drove it home a mile before I did this. Then it sat for a week and when I moved it couldn't tell there was ever a problem. chris

That could be as it sat outside for years and years. It lives in a garage now but I haven't worked it any or driven it very far at all since I finished the body work.
 
I used to adjust my 1020 using those double nuts. It was just a matter of precision guesswork when I did it. I'd back them all off the same and try it.
 
(quoted from post at 05:34:43 06/03/20) I used to adjust my 1020 using those double nuts. It was just a matter of precision guesswork when I did it. I'd back them all off the same and try it.

Thanks, I'm gonna go back at it this weekend. I'm going to try to freeing up of the clutch disc first and if that doesn't work I'm going to grind down a 9/16 so I can get it on the inside nut to hold it in place so I can loosen the outside nut and go from there.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top