LipRipper3006
Member
I finally got the machine shop to call me back after he quoted 3 weeks and now he's saying he won't get around to it until December :/ However I got the measurement and the Bore at the top is 4.727 and the
bore past the wear ring is 4.740, so the engine is .045 over plus an extra .012 of wear. In the last forum, I forgot to include that the tractor would be for show or light duty only. However, I want the
tractor to run nice and one of the club members said for it to run smoothly it would need good compression. That being said I'm already $4,000 deep into the tractor not counting the purchase price and a
possibility of another $1,200 for paint and other broken or worn pieces. I'm assuming that the rebore kit and machining cost would add around another $1,200 so I'm hoping that re-ringing the engine will be
good enough.
One of the local restoration guys gave us a guys number who does tractor machine work but we can't get him to answer the phone; so I did a little research after the machinist recommended the use of a ridge
reamer to take material off before I install new rings. But, I cant find any info on if the reamer will interfere with the spark plug and decompression hole in the block. After that I will use a deglazing
tool and that should be it for the bores.
As for the head and block surfaces I found a video of a method that may be considered shade tree worthy but I may be better than doing nothing at all if I can even remove the studs from the block:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WsQ3reC7SY
The third problem is the studs broken off in the head: Should I try welding a nut on the broken stud or just drill and tap the old stud out?
As for the babbit rod saga, I ordered two used rods and pistons from eBay which appear to be in decent condition.
bore past the wear ring is 4.740, so the engine is .045 over plus an extra .012 of wear. In the last forum, I forgot to include that the tractor would be for show or light duty only. However, I want the
tractor to run nice and one of the club members said for it to run smoothly it would need good compression. That being said I'm already $4,000 deep into the tractor not counting the purchase price and a
possibility of another $1,200 for paint and other broken or worn pieces. I'm assuming that the rebore kit and machining cost would add around another $1,200 so I'm hoping that re-ringing the engine will be
good enough.
One of the local restoration guys gave us a guys number who does tractor machine work but we can't get him to answer the phone; so I did a little research after the machinist recommended the use of a ridge
reamer to take material off before I install new rings. But, I cant find any info on if the reamer will interfere with the spark plug and decompression hole in the block. After that I will use a deglazing
tool and that should be it for the bores.
As for the head and block surfaces I found a video of a method that may be considered shade tree worthy but I may be better than doing nothing at all if I can even remove the studs from the block:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WsQ3reC7SY
The third problem is the studs broken off in the head: Should I try welding a nut on the broken stud or just drill and tap the old stud out?
As for the babbit rod saga, I ordered two used rods and pistons from eBay which appear to be in decent condition.
