Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a jd 300b and it has started, when you crank it, it runs like normal for a minute then starts slowing down and cuts off, let it set a few minutes and it will do the same thing any idea's?
thanks, john
 
The return fitting at the injector pump is clogged, there is a coupling in the pump that is deteriating and sending little black particules out the return they get lodged in the return check valve, you can remove the fitting and file the end a bit to remove the check valve ball and spring, clean and replace the elbow "without" the check valve. This may run fine for 2 years or 2 weeks,,,you will need to have the pump serviced in the near future.
 
could also be the valve in the bottom of the fuel tank, I've seen them stop up and cause the same type of problem as well as the check valve also mentioned, I took the check valve completely off of my 2020 and she never misses a lick
 
It's a very common problem for any Deere, IH, Oliver, Ford, Allis Chalmers,Case, pre-1985 Chevy or Ford pickup truck, etc. with a Stanadyne/Roosamaster DB,JDB or DB2 injection pump.

The plastic (pellathane) vibration damper falls apart on the governor weight-cage. Pieces plug the housing-pressure-regulator-valve. Then the engine runs a bit, loses power, and quits. Then, will restart and quit again. It will often make internal pump pressure so high, it will force diesel fuel into your oil pan. Pressure is only supposed to be 3-4 PSI.

If you fix yourself, figure on $40 in new parts if you fix back to original. Or, upgrade and eliminate the problem forever for an extra $50.

Note that if you send to a pump shop, you'll likely be charged $400 to $600 and not even get the upgrade. Only pumps used on highway vehicles e.g. Ford and Chevy pickups get the upgrade automatically if older then 1985. After 1985, the upgrade was done on all at the factory.

I've had to fix my 300B twice over the years. The original last lasted a long time. With my first fix, I repaired back to original, and that ring only lasted 6 years. Then, I fixed and upgraded and it's been fine ever since.

One more note. Last time it quit, I was only 1/4 mile from home. So, I removed the housing-pressure-regulator-valve and drilled it out - as a short term fix. After that, I got about half-way home and it quit again. This time, the chunks of plastic found their way to the T-fitting on top of #1 injector and plugged again. So, I just pulled the line off, let fuel spill onto the ground and drove the rest of the way home (with fire extinguisher in hand). Sloppy yes, but it got me home. Once in the shop, it was a four hour job to pull the pump, fix and upgrade it, and reinstall. A week later, the same thing happened to my Case 580CK and I had to upgrade that too.
 
If you choose to do it yourself, the timing mark gets tossed away with the old weight retainer and the new one isn't marked... takes a Stanadyne air-timing tool to get it EXACT... that's where the pro diesel pump shop comes in. On the other hand, simply replacing the plastic damper ring will get you another 10 to 30 years of use out of the IP.

I believe USdiesel.com is ONE supplier who will sell to the general public, there's usually some kits on ebay, as well. (Auction #220863510194 being ONE example, which will also show you the contents of the after-market kit)... IIRC, you don't get the governor damper ring with a genuine Stanadyne kit as they expect you to update to the newer weight retainer.
 
You make it sound difficult to transfer that mark when in reality, it's easy. The new Stanadyne solid aluminum part that replaces the old setup with the pellathane ring is part # 29111. You take the new piece and simply lay it on the old one. Then put the timing mark on the new piece IN line with the old one. Five minute job. Since it's aluminum, it's easy to do with a sharp knife or scribe.

No matter what you do, air-timing is rarely needed. Stanadyne lists where to place that mark in degrees. You just lay the new piece on a degree-chart and put the mark where indicated. That is only necessary when you don't have an old piece with an existing mark to transfer to the new. For a 300B, the mark gets put on the piece at 183.5 degrees when using a degree wheel or graph.

On a older high-hour tractor, I don't see the concern for the exact "precison" placement of that mark, anyway. Many of these tractors get the static timing "bumped up", i.e. advanced to make them start and run better as they age. Usually done by ear, not by the mark. Often the pump gets advanced a 1-2 pump degrees which equals 2-4 degrees at the engine-flywheel.

The mark is good for general reference when installing, and often needed to check timing advance on a engine running a high speed.
 
I use US Diesel for parts and various other places for special pump tools. Keep in mind that if you pull the pump apart, you need one special Bristol wrench. They can usually be found for $5 or $10. Some people have claimed they've used a Torx T45 and ground it to fit, but can't say I've ever tried it. No reason for me to, since I've got a bucket full of the correct wrenches.

If you are a pretty good mechanic, you should be able to fix yourself - with patience and the proper repair manual. The Deere manual is SM-2045. Post your email and I can send you the manual free in a PDF file.

The Bristol wrench is Stanadyne or Deere part # 15499. It has six teeth, is .312" OD, and .25" on the ID of the splines. A Torx T45 is .306" on the OD, has six teeth but are shaped different.

www.usdiesel.com US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas is a dealer and will ship to anyone.
800-328-0037.

JDB complete seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco U24371 $12 - $15. Comes with all seals, o-rings, washers, OEM plactic weight-retaining ring, and shaft seals.

JDB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco U16320 $5-$7. This is the bronze bushing in the front of the pump. Should always be replaced if the old one has any ridge worn into it.

Pressure-regulator valve - # 15830. This is the fitting that screws into the pump cover, and has a steel flare fitting on it that hooks to the fuel-return line. Cost around $5. this is the part that plugs.

New upgrade solid drive is $45-$55 and # 29111. This is the upgrade that eliminates the plastic dampener ring.

Note that Thompson Diesel has been selling new Stanadyne tools for a few years now at half-price, to anyone. Mostly the older stuff. That Stanadyne #15499 wrench was selling for around $4. I bought a dozen last year just have as spares.
http://www.thompsondiesel.com/Stanadyne.htm
 
i got thinking about it and got out old recipes and when me and my dad rebuilt the motor in it we put a new pump on it and i just went out and looked and it has 262 hours on it would that peace have come apart already or should i look for some thing else?
thanks, john
 
thanks everyone for all the help I messed with it some today and got it running again the small ball valve at the end of the return line on the pump had what must be some black plastic pieces of the ring you are talking about in it and it would not seat all the way closed so I cleaned it out and it fired right up and run like normal for now but don't know how long?
thanks, john
 
(quoted from post at 16:43:31 10/20/11) the small ball valve at the end of the return line on the pump had what must be some black plastic pieces of the ring you are talking about in it and it would not seat all the way closed

Glad you got it running. The check valve being "closed tight" is why your tractor wouldn't run because too much pressure built up inside inj pump causing inj pump to stop pumping fuel.
 
You don't want to run it too long like that . . . especially with today's prices for new and used parts.

Now that your plastic dampener has fallen apart, you've got a steel wheel rotating at pump speed - slamming against six steel rivets - and none are supposed to ever touch. Eventually, they'll break or shed metal chips into the pump and ruin it beyond any cost-effective repair.
 
Jd Can you send me the manual sm-2045 to [email protected] thanks for all the info..your the best....
(quoted from post at 11:33:23 10/17/11) I use US Diesel for parts and various other places for special pump tools. Keep in mind that if you pull the pump apart, you need one special Bristol wrench. They can usually be found for $5 or $10. Some people have claimed they've used a Torx T45 and ground it to fit, but can't say I've ever tried it. No reason for me to, since I've got a bucket full of the correct wrenches.

If you are a pretty good mechanic, you should be able to fix yourself - with patience and the proper repair manual. The Deere manual is SM-2045. Post your email and I can send you the manual free in a PDF file.

The Bristol wrench is Stanadyne or Deere part # 15499. It has six teeth, is .312" OD, and .25" on the ID of the splines. A Torx T45 is .306" on the OD, has six teeth but are shaped different.

www.usdiesel.com US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas is a dealer and will ship to anyone.
800-328-0037.

JDB complete seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco U24371 $12 - $15. Comes with all seals, o-rings, washers, OEM plactic weight-retaining ring, and shaft seals.

JDB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco U16320 $5-$7. This is the bronze bushing in the front of the pump. Should always be replaced if the old one has any ridge worn into it.

Pressure-regulator valve - # 15830. This is the fitting that screws into the pump cover, and has a steel flare fitting on it that hooks to the fuel-return line. Cost around $5. this is the part that plugs.

New upgrade solid drive is $45-$55 and # 29111. This is the upgrade that eliminates the plastic dampener ring.

Note that Thompson Diesel has been selling new Stanadyne tools for a few years now at half-price, to anyone. Mostly the older stuff. That Stanadyne #15499 wrench was selling for around $4. I bought a dozen last year just have as spares.
http://www.thompsondiesel.com/Stanadyne.htm
 
LJD I have a John Deere 410 backhoe with starting problems and would really like to have a copy of the Sm-2045 you offered. mnscoulter at verizon dot net
Thanks,
 

MarkSeeJD410,

The offer was in an old post (2011) and LJD's last post of record was in December of 2012. He might be around, and answer you, but if you need the manual you will likely have better luck buying a copy. There are usually several used and reprints for sale on eBay, and other places have copies for sale. Yesterday's Tractor store may have it if you give them a call.

If a pump is putting debris in the return fuel to the tank it needs repair not a filter in the return line. Debris plugging the check valve of a Stanadyne/Roosamaster is a common sign of an internal pump failure happening. JMHO
 

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