BRAKE PROBLEM STILL ON 401B JOHN DEERE

Had the guy come and pick up tractor that done the brake job. He found a used complete brake cylinder,told me i had a crack in one of my original cylinder.He had to pump up both brakes before he unloaded it.I said no way i'm going to have that. he told me to run it a few days and see if it didn't improve. it didn't .called him out to farm he adjusted brake pedals got it better.let sit for 10 minutes no right brake,let it sit for 30 min. both pedals go to floor.with tractor running. he told me to drain all hyd. fluid out and fill with diesel fuel work all functions . drain and fill hyd oil. then call him because i had both equalizer valves with medal under the balls.when that tractor went to him the first time with medal to medal brakes i never had a pedal problem.
 
You have other problems,,most likely your brake pads have shelled off and have been running metal on metal,then filings work into the brake piston seal, and letting brake operating pressure leak past,then you pump the pedal a few times and it will come back for a bit,, then leak off again. The final drives are going to need to come off, deal with what ever you find there ,,these are nasty to remove on a hoe...and don't shoot your mechanic,,he is dealing with a common but nasty system issue,,I'm sure he thought the issue was all in the valve,,but it's not...
 
You posted before this guy did the brake job for $4000.00. What did he do and what was replaced? Discs, pistons, piston seals? Were the piston housings, the transmission sump and screen cleaned to get rid of the metal fines? Was the transmission filter changed?
 


IIRC Ronnie has already had someone R&R brake pads on this tractor. I'll bet metal fines is not allowing the valves in brake housing to seat. I wonder if a magnet has been installed inside trans case?
 
(quoted from post at 15:01:49 05/18/20) You posted before this guy did the brake job for $4000.00. What did he do and what was replaced? Discs, pistons, piston seals? Were the piston housings, the transmission sump and screen cleaned to get rid of the metal fines? Was the transmission filter changed?
HE told me he took a magnet and got ever little piece of medal out, replaced both planetary gears complete new brake kit disc and plates, new filter new oil new o rings ,hasn't worked right there after.
 
(quoted from post at 09:10:13 05/18/20)
HE told me he took a magnet and got ever little piece of medal out, replaced both planetary gears complete new brake kit disc and plates, new filter new oil new o rings ,hasn't worked right there after.[/quote]

IMHO there is no way on God's green Earth to get ever little piece of metal fines out of a JD tractor transmission case & hyd system with a "magnet" that the brake pads have failed & brake parts were contacting metal to metal short of utilizing Tim's Tannerite!!!
 
TX JIM---- a 72 year old man should have enough smarts (ME) to know when enough is enough, that last bill was 1800.00 for inj. pump rebuild and brake valve and labor. I'm so sick of this yellow J.D.i would like to blow it up. If it can't be fixed externally i'm done.
 
Ronnie, These systems are not that complicated. Draw a line between the brake pitons and valve by
simply capping off both brake lines fittings at brake valve to see if pedals pump up and get hard
pedals? Make sure there is oil in brake valve reservoir when doing this and crack fitting cap to
bleed air from each cylinder. If pedals will not pump up and lock up pedal hard, problem in in brake
valve, Most likely inlet check valves damage by the guy that last had it apart. (Easy fix), If pedal
will pump up and get hard bleed air from each valve cylinder by cracking cap loose and pump oil /
air from loose cap, Tighten cap, check for hard pedal, leave set for a day or longer pedal better be
still up and hard when depressed. If pedal goes down the valve is leaking. If pedal stays up / hard
then problem in in piston cavities most likely piston seals cut when installed. DW
 
A gauge attached to the brake valve and hold the pedal pressure will prove the valve, a port-a-power plumbed to the brake piston line with a gauge "T'ed" in will prove the brake piston. You are just starting to find out why I don't like this Dubuque Puke design...and any Cheap old back hoe will end up costing you a bunch in the end...
 
(quoted from post at 23:27:29 05/18/20)
I agree utility tractor brake valves aren't complicated but metal fines in hyd oil plays havoc with the check & equalizer valves.
TX JIM--- WHERE IS THE check valve located,and what may i find when removed.know the equalizer valves are simple a spring and ball.
 

Valves are Item 31. IIRC metal fines keep the valves from seating correctly.

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