Tomstractorsandtoys- 2510 picture for you

I'm just about done my diesel swap into my
2510. I ended up finding a cheap, 4.5
Powertech. I was later told thats not a
good engine for the swap, as its not a
structural block, but 2 quotes came to
mind- "A bird in the hand is worth 2 in
the bush" and "If she goes she goes, if
she blows she blows". Ill be the guinea
pig and post back if it fails. I had to
drill and recap 4 holes in the back of the
block to a larger size. Switched the tach
drive over from the gas engine. Used a
remote mount oil filter and made an
eliminator for the oil cooler as it was
into the frame rail. Used the gas fan.
Made my own thermostat housing and
radiator hoses as well as intake piping
and alternator mount. Modified the
throttle linkage. I think that's about it.

Hindsight, a 276 or 4.5 from a tractor
would have been better. My block didn't
have the balancer shafts in it and you can
feel the vibration a little bit. Although
everything is there to put them in down
the road it looks like. Maybe next winter.
My uncle found a 4045 turbo engine hes
going to swap into a 3020 he has with a
blown engine. He has the hydraulic pump
mount and adaptor plate. Just needs time
now. That'll be a fun project too.

Here's a picture from today and one from
the day I bought the tractor.

Looks good although to me it is missing something as every 2510 diesel I ever seen had the above the hood air cleaner. Not saying you need it but they were something I always liked the looks of. With the frame rails in a 2510 I would think your block is ok. It would be better in a 2510 than say a 2440 is my guess.I pulled the hood of my 2510 in mid April to fix a hyd leak and we missed a couple of rains and planting weather came early so it is still setting in the shed. Had to plant with the 3020 this year. If you could please post more about 3020 engine swap. I was told if you use 2510 frame rails and hyd pump mount all the sheet metal works and to use a 4030 rear plate on the engine. What flywheel and clutch will they be using? I really would like to know the machining specs for the flywheel. I have thought about doing the same thing a few times as there are lots of good 3020 gas tractors in my area. Last summer I had a perfect low hour 72 3020 gas that would have been a great tractor to convert. Tom

I thought the same thing about the frame rails on this tractor supporting the block. Thats why we kept going forward with it.

I'll keep you updated on the 3020. I had that thought about 2510 frame rails. Wondered how they'd work with the other sheet metal. He did get a 4030 rear plate and a 2510 front pump mount. Dale told me at least I knew everything else on mine was good when I started the swap. He'll get his engine in and then get to find out what all quirks his tractor has, haha. He bought it cheap and not running. They're busy into fieldwork now too so I'm not sure when he'll get to it. I just saw today they had Grandad, Terry, in the 7710 doing some tillage. He's 81 now. Thats the first I've seen him doing firework in a while. That 7710 is the last tractor they're still running that was on the farm when he retired. Good to see.

This older thread has many good pictures and info about the 3020 swap.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=122419

I agree that the block should be OK with frames. Utility
tractors would be where you would have problems.
Did it have balancer bushings in it installed so the oil
passages didn't line up?

I noticed it had the bushings for the balancer but didn't look any closer.

I can't get you link to work but I bet I
saw that thread. I had printed off several
pages I saw on here back when a guy on
here did it. I also saw a thread on a
Facebook group where a guy did it. Passed
all that info on to my Uncle.

They're decent fabricators, as a lot if
farmers can be I guess. They made a set of
sprayer booms a while back that really
impressed me. I'm anxious to see what they
do with the swap because I bet it'll be
nice. Especially if my cousin gets in on
it. He is a mechanical engineer now
working at Volvo/Mack truck.

Since it had bushings it wouldn't be to big an issue to install shafts.
You would have to replace the bushings and line up the oil holes. The
ones in there are installed to block the holes since there are no shafts.