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John Deere's Buff 1k Primer vs a 2K Epoxy Primer

L

LipRipper3006

Member
How does John Deere's buff primer compare to a 2 part epoxy primer? If I use the buff primer I would only use it on the case, engine, rear end, wheels, and some other non-visible parts. On the frame, hood, grille, and pedestal I'm going to bodywork and fill primer so I'll need the two-part epoxy so I won't have any lifting issues. Is there any reason to use the buff over the epoxy? Thanks
 
I have used epoxy paint. I can not tell you if this was epoxy primer or paint...
When I painted my finished coat of green or yellow on it, it would eventually flack off because the epoxy was smooth and the paint would not stick to it.
I do not know if this applies to epoxy primer.
 
The only reason I would use the buff primer is because I won?t
be doing anything other than spraying the primer then
topcoating. Not sure about the Deere primer but I use
Eastwood 1:1 and it?s supposed to be able to topcoat for 5
days but I wait until it?s flashed at about 30 mins to topcoat. I
didn?t know if the Deere paint would have a reaction or not.

I?m sure the two part epoxy will have better adhesion as it is
catalyzed so it?s resistant to solvents (like gas) compared to
the Deere of which I assume is self etching.
 
If you are using Deere paint there is no need to use primer
on the areas you mention. On some bare areas I spot with
Rustoleum rusty metal primer from a rattle can.
On sheet metal where you've filled or have some pitting I use
urethane primer to hide sanding scratches etc. Then sand it
with finer paper. You can paint directly over it.
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