1962 John Deere 1010 gas engine SN28311

Recently I was having to jump the tractor off every time I used it. After a few times of doing this when I jumped it off it would start but when the key was returned to the run position it would cut off.
Since I knew the battery could be the problem ( it was 13 yrs old) I replaced it. Now that I have installed the new battery I get nothing at all. Its like it has no power at all. I'm wondering if it could be the starter or generator. But i would think I would hear something trying to work. I inherited from my dad and know very little about it. I do have the owners manual and parts list manual. Help!!!!

I am not sure I understand what this means . . . "I jumped it off it would start but when the key was returned to the run position it would
cut off."

What position was the key in then you jumped it? If not in "run" where was it?

1010 is not wired much different then any other tractor with a 12 volt system. Only thing that makes it slightly odd is the original key-
switch has an ignition ballast resistor built right into it. So if the resistor goes bad, it will start but do dead as soon as the key is
taken out of "start" position and put into "run" position.

As far as cranking does - it either has a Prestolite or a Delco starter and solenoid. Pretty straight forward.

What I meant is exactly what you stated in part of your answer.

(it will start but do dead as soon as the key is
taken out of "start" position and put into "run" position.)

This is exactly what was happening. Now that I have replaced battery which I assumed was causing all the problems I get nothing. I would think I would try to turn over unless the new battery is no good. Even if the switch or starter is bad it should turn over right ? I will check the battery just to be sure.

Sorry, Im gonna have to take a guess at what's going on when you state:

"Recently I was having to jump the tractor off every time I used it. After a few times of doing this when I jumped it off it would start but when the key was returned to the run position it would cut off."

My best "guess" is you put jumper cables on the battery,,,,,,,,,,You turn switch (against spring return pressure) to the START position,,,,,,,,,,it cranks up and starts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,BUT as soon as you release the switch so it springs to the normal RUN it dies IS THAT RIGHT??

If that's actually the case and if (no telling what mods may or may not have been made over the years) the tractor uses a ballast resistor (wire or wire link or built into the switch itself) where when in cranking mode the ballast is by passed (sends unballasted voltage to coil) A PRIME SUSPECT IS THE BALLAST IS BAD/OPEN or the switch itself could just be bad.

HOWEVER THATS NOT THE END OF THE STORY

Even if the ballast was bad/open assuming the new battery is fully charged ?? and assuming the cables were connected properly all good n tight ??? IT SHOULD STILL CRANK OVER IN THE START POSITION as that has nothing to do with the ignition ballast system.

I would insure the switches BAT INPUT is receiving good battery voltage because if not it wont send voltage to the starter solenoid to make her crank. FOR NOW I DONT SEE THE STARTER AS THE PROBLEM FOR NOT CRANKING but sure the generator could be bad causing the battery to not stay charged.

Until we get more good information for now Id insure the battery is full charged and all the cables and grounds are in place and then be looking to see if there is voltage actually getting to the switches BAT input terminal (It needs voltage to signal the starter solenoid and power the ignition coil). If not maybe a wire is open or a fuse (if it even has any in that circuit).

Best I have to offer now, if you're inexperienced it may be hard to educate you how to troubleshoot this over the net but hey I will try my best. I hope the battery is good and installed correctly????? If you get her cranking it may only be a bad switch or the ballast (IF it uses one and that by pass when cranking system) is bad/open.

John T

I have seen many brand new batteries bad right off the shelve. So first thing to do is have it checked. If it is good then check and make sure your battery cable connections are clean tight and bright

Good point Rich, in addition I wonder if he hooked at the correct polarity ?? (of course we all know a tractor starter motor would still turn the same direction).

John T

Yes but if it has an alternator on it hooking it up backwards sure will let the smoke out of it fast. BTDT and boy it only takes a second to fry an alternaotr

John T

See my comments below yours.

My best "guess" is you put jumper cables on the battery,,,,,,,,,,You turn switch (against spring return pressure) to the START position,,,,,,,,,,it cranks up and starts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,BUT as soon as you release the switch so it springs to the normal RUN it dies IS THAT RIGHT?? ( YES THIS IS CORRECT)

I checked the battery and it is giving 12.5 volts , also checked connections. I decided to just start moving some wires around to check for a loose connection and managed to get the engine to turn over. So i have a loose connection somewhere around the voltage regulator. Right now its turning over so I will find loose connection once I get it to run with switch in normal position.

That being said its doing exactly what you say above.

The ignition switch appears to have 3 or 4 connections plugged into the back of it. I see no mention of a ballast on the wiring and electrical system in the parts manual.Pg 85-8 & 85-9. So I guess the best place to start is to order the ignition switch and see if that fixes the problem.
Can you confirm that part # AR26528 R is correct for the switch

Thanks
JM

As I already stated, the 1010 originally had an ignition ballast resistor built into the back of the ignition switch. It was an open-wire
resistor that tended to break. Once broken, the engine will start fine but die as soon as the key is returned to "run" position. Deere
came out with an updrade kit for all the 1010s that came with a different key switch, and a remote and separate ballast resistor that was
more durable. I have no idea which you have. All of what I just stated has nothing to do with the battery not cranking over the engine.
Just the part about starting in "start" position and they quitting when you return to "run" position. It used to be a common problem.

IF you have the Delco starter, it looks kind of like what you'd find on a 70s-80s Chevy. Pretty easy to diagnose. The "S" terminal on the
solenoid gets positive power - and it engages the starter drive and makes it spin - as long as a good battery is hooked to it. The
Prestolite starter is quite different.

Before I replaced any thing I would do a hot wire from the battery ignition side to the coil ignition side. If it runs that way then you have a problem with a bad ballast resistor or wire or switch.

JM, THANKS for the feedback, the more you help us the more we may be able to help you !!!. I will quote then address your latest response:


1. "I checked the battery and it is giving 12.5 volts , also checked connections".

Sounds "good enough", a full charged battery at rest and stabilized would read around 12.6 volts. HOWEVER even if the battery is perfect a loose resistive voltage dropping connection (ground cable or connection or battery or starter or solenoid) can cause poor cranking. Its the voltage on the starter itself while cranking that really matters. In doubt I remove, clean n wire brush and re attach each n every battery and starter and solenoid and especially GROUND cables


2. "I decided to just start moving some wires around to check for a loose connection and managed to get the engine to turn over."

Sure sounds like a bad connection SOMEWHERE. The current path to "engage" the starter/solenoid would be from the battery to and through any ammeter (if it had one), to and through the start switch (when in start position) to the activation terminal on the solenoid. Then the high current and voltage (big cables) to actually power the starter motor would be from the battery to and through the closed/activated solenoid contacts to the starter motor.


3. "So i have a loose connection somewhere around the voltage regulator".

The wiring "around the Voltage Regulator" has more to do with the genny being able to keep the battery charged then how the starter switch and solenoid and starter motor behaves UNLESS its a 4 terminal VR with the 4th LOAD terminal that feeds battery voltage to the switch........Remember the switch needs good battery voltage on its input to power the ignition coil and activate the solenoid so it can close for the engine to crank over. That voltage may come from the ammeter (if it had one) or the battery or a L terminal on a 4 terminal VR if it had one.

4. Right now its turning over so I will find loose connection once I get it to run with switch in normal position.
That being said its doing exactly what you say above.

I guessed right then lol

5. "The ignition switch appears to have 3 or 4 connections plugged into the back of it. I see no mention of a ballast on the wiring and electrical system in the parts manual.Pg 85-8 & 85-9."

Not knowing if the tractor was ever modified I will say again. IFFFFFFFFFF it uses a 6 volt coil and a 12 to 6 volt dropping ballast resistor (may be a wire link or a resistor wire or a stand alone ballast resistor or built into the switch itself you may not even see it) with a start bypass system that sends unballasted battery voltage to the coil ONLY when cranking and it runs when in start/crank but NOT when released to the RUN position THE BALLAST MAY BE BAD/OPEN or the switch is bad...?? I just cant say from here what you have or know if it was modified !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anytime a tractor uses a ballast resistor and a ballast by pass while cranking system (12 volt tractor with 6 volt coil) and the coil fires when in start but not in run I SUSPECT A BAD OPEN BALLAST RESISTOR or possibly a bad switch OR IT COULD BE IN THE WIRING OF ALL THAT ???????????????

If you had a voltmeter on the coils input (NOT to distributor) terminal and it had a ballast and by pass working system, when cranking there would be voltage on the coil, but when cranking stopped and switch set to RUN the voltage may decrease. If no ballast system (12 volt coil 12 volt tractor) there still needs to be coil voltage BOTH in RUN and START switch positions.
THE COIL CANT PRODUCE SPARK TO KEEP ENGINE RUNNING UNLESS THERES VOLTAGE ON ITS INPUT !!!!!! Stick a meter on the coils input and see if and when you have voltage ??????? Has to be in BOTH start and run switch positions


6) "So I guess the best place to start is to order the ignition switch and see if that fixes the problem."

That's not how I would do it, Id test first and then get a new switch IF NEEDED but if you're not experienced its up to you. There MUST be voltage TO the switch and then in both RUN or START it has to supply voltage to the coil. It also sends battery voltage down to the activation terminal on the solenoid but ONLY when in START position.
Voltage applied to the solenoids small activation terminal makes the drive gear engage and then high current contacts inside close so the battery via the big cables gets to the starter motor itself.

There ya go, hope this helps, post back any questions

John T

RE your question " . .I see no mention of a ballast on the wiring and electrical system . .
Can you confirm that part # AR26528 R is correct for the switch . ."

Deere came out with the remote ballast resistor upgrade kit in 1980 as I recall. So it has been awhile and I have no idea what kind of
ignition switch Deere sells now for a 1010.

It kind of boils down to this. Deere used the same 6 volt coil that the two-cylinder 420 had, in the four-cylinder 1010 with a 12 volt
system. Oddly, the 1010 with four cylinders is the same cubic inch size as the two cylinder 420. When Deere used that 6 volt coil in the
1010 with the 12 volt system, at first a key switch was used that had a built-in ballast resistor and a built-in bypass mode when cranking.
Then 20 years after the 1010 first came out, Deere came up with that resistor upgrade kit. The new switch still had the resistor bypass
mode when cranking but no longer had the resistor attached to the switch.

In your case? Are trying to restore this 1010 to original or just get it running well? If the latter, I would say the heck with the Deere
key switch. Use a universal battery-ignition switch for less then $10 and wire things a little different. If you have the Delco starter -
it is easy since the Delco already has a ballast-resistor bypass built into the solenoid with the small terminal marked "R." Also, if
wanted - just get rid of the 6 volt coil and buy a coil made for 12 volt systems with no ballast resistor needed. THAT is the easiest
route. The new coil and the cheap new key universal key switch. Or better yet - by a Pertronix breakerless kit and again - no more
ballast resistor needed.

If you OEM switch has a ballast resistor built into it - it is very easy to see. It is a very obvious coiled-wire resistor on the back and
outside of the switch. You cannot miss it if is there.

Actually now that I think about it, even if you're NOT experienced it would be sooooooooooo easy to troubleshoot any switch problem BEFORE you run out and buy a new one, here goes using ONLY a simple 6/12 volt test light or a volt meter provides more information: I hate to see you spend bucks on a switch if its not the problem and you may or may not even get the correct one to match how you're wired up currently ????????

A IGNITION FUNCTION

1) Put the test lamp or meter on the coils input (NOT to distributor) terminal
2) Try the switch in both the START and RUN positions. THERE SHOULD BE COIL VOLTAGE IN BOTH POSITIONS
a) If there's ONLY voltage in the START but NOT RUN position, my guess is the ballast (if any is used?? be it wire or resistive wire link or stand alone device or built right on/in the switch assembly, you may not be able to clearly see or recognize what you have) IS BAD/OPEN orrrrrrrrrr the switch is bad.

I cant say from here what switch assembly you have or what if any ballast you have or what if any modifications may have been made over the years so this is only a start and may or may not be correct.


B) STARTER MOTOR CRANKING FUNCTION

1) Put the test lamp on the solenoids small activation terminal.
2) When the switch is in the START position voltage should appear on that terminal and the solenoid will activate.

a) If NOT, the switch may be bad or the switch may be lacking input voltage or a wire is open from switch down to the solenoid. For the solenoid to engage THERE NEEDS TO BE VOLTAGE ON ITS ACTIVATION TERMINAL plus the solenoid itself needs to be working, they do go bad !!!!!!!!!!!

In the event the battery is good,,,,,,,, and full charged,,,,,,,,,, and all the cables and connections and grounds are all good,,,,,,,,,,, but she cranks poor, you're down to a solenoid or a starter motor problem. HOPE FOR THE SOLENOID AS ITS SOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH CHEAPER. In years past when I didn't have much money I successfully repaired burned/pitted/resistive solenoid contacts by cleaning and smoothing and/or rotating them but I suggest you just buy a new one. If a solenoid is new and perfect (never that good even if new) there will be little voltage drop across it when it's engaged, but if its dropping excess voltage (burned pitted carboned contacts) the starter sees less voltage and cranks poorly.

SUMMARY check for coil voltage in BOTH the start and run switch positions to troubleshoot any switch or ballast problems,,,,,,,,,once that is all good check for the switches start operation where it sends voltage (in start mode) to the solenoid,,,,,,,,,once all that is fixed and if she cranks poorly check to see if its a solenoid or a starter motor problem,,,,,,,,,,,once that's all fixed I will tell you how to troubleshoot any charging problem.

Hope this helps and it may or may not avoid having to buy a new switch !!!!!!!! Still I don't know what switch you have or what type and kind of ballast it may or not have or what mods may have been made etc etc use so I cant guarantees this is correct BUT HEY I TRY MY BEST

Keep me informed, post back any question

Best wishes, God Bless, Happy 4th of July

John T

I had a heck of a time finding it, but here is the ignition switch upgrade kit with a remote ballast resistor I told you about.

If appears the original ignition switch with the built-in resistor was # AR26528. Once the upgrade kit is installed, the ignition switch is
# AT21567. Deere OEM parts are nuts and I would never buy any of this stuff for myself.

Here is a better image of the 1010 ignition switch upgrade kit with the Deere reference numbers.

In the event you cant figure out if you have a ballast resistor and a ballast by pass when cranking switch/system here's a simple method: Problem is I don't know which switch you have or which ballast (if any) and if it was ever modified BUT THIS WILL HELP YOU FIGURE IT ALL OUT...?. If you're ONLY getting coil voltage and fire when cranking but NOT otherwise that still sounds like a ballast (on switch or wire or resistor looking type or bigger stand alone) is bad/open !!!!!!!!!!!!!

If all else is good and working, place a volt meter on the coils input (NOT to distributor) terminal. When the switch (if a ballast by pass type and good and working) is in the START position the voltage would be near battery voltage (because ballast is by passed) which, while cranking, may be in the 9+ to 11+ volt range SUBJECT TO CONDITION OF BATTERY AND STARTER AND CABLES AND CONNECTION. If there's no high starter current draw then a full charged battery would be around 12.6 volts and same on coils input.

Then if all else is good and working the coils input voltage WHEN IN RUN POSITION AND POINTS CLOSED would be in the 6 to 7 volt range (subject to ballast). The ballast drops 6 volts leaving 6 for a 6 volt coil.

How a ballast and ballast by pass system works on 12 volt tractors that use a 6 volt coil is a series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor is used so a 6 volt coil operates on its 6 rated volts under normal operation. HOWEVER to improve cold weather starting ONLY WHEN CRANKING the ballast is by passed so the coil gets un ballasted battery voltage. Depending on if your tractor was modified or how it was originally shipped.

If you're inexperienced and aren't sure and cant tell by looking what switch you have and what if any ballast you may or may not have (wire looking or wire link type or resistor wire or on switch or a bigger stand alone) if you understand the above and use my volt meter tests YOU CAN FIGURE IT OUT. Another problem with just going out and buying a new switch is YOU HAVE TO GET THE RIGHT KIND OR TYPE TO MATCH HOW YOUR TRACTOR IS NOW CONFIGURED. Ballast or no ballast ??? Ballast by pass type (if used) of switch and configuration ???

If you have a 6 volt coil THEN YOU NEED A BALLAST or the coil would overheat and points burn soon.
If you have a 12 volt coil THEN DONT USE ANY BALLAST.

SEE WHY THE SWITCH AND YOUR COIL VOLTAGE RATING AND BALLAST OR NO BALLAST IS IMPORTANT BEFORE YOU BUY A NEW SWITCH !!!!!

If it gets too expensive and not manageable some people might just abandon the whole ballast and ballast by pass 6/12 system and use a full true 12 volt coil no ballast required and be done with it

Sooooooooooo once you figure out the whole switch issue post back more questions and I will be glad to help you more. You have to get the tractor cranking and correct coil voltage and then I will help with your charging issues.

Best wishes, God Bless, Happy 4th of July

John T

JM, Note I'm NOT trying to discourage you from purchasing a new switch, if one is needed Id buy one in a heartbeat. HOWEVER in my last couple posts below, I am ONLY describing how to troubleshoot to determine if you actually need one or not to possibly save you some bucks. In the event you go to Mother Deere (or elsewhere) to purchase one if you have the tractors make model and serial number and the old switch with you that will help and also determine what switch/system/ballast (or not) you currently have, especially if you're inexperienced or unfamiliar and can't tell by looking.

Best wishes and God Bless

John T

Lots of good info here. One thing I do not see mentioned though is was the battery originally hooked up negative ground or positive ground? Did you by accident put in the new battery backwards? My 1010 gas, serial number 25XXX used to not charge and need to be jumped often. It was because the prior owner put the battery in as negative ground instead of positive. Got a new battery, put it in as positive ground (this is how it should be with a generator on an early 1010 gas), set up the coil to work as positive ground, and luckily the generator once again started charging. I have had no issues with a dead battery since.

Also, are you using a braided ground strap or an ground actual cable? If you have a strap is it corroded and rusting along with the sheet metal mounting bolt? I would replace your ground from the battery with a cable, and run it to the starter mounting bolt for a good ground. I have a 2 gauge ground cable on mine and it made a huge difference in starting the tractor.

The ballast for your 1010 gas would be mounted on the underside of the shelf under the dash beneath where the steering knuckle/shaft is located. That is where mine is. It is a white ceramic block with two wires coming off of it.

(quoted from post at 11:50:03 07/04/19) Actually now that I think about it, even if you're NOT experienced it would be sooooooooooo easy to troubleshoot any switch problem BEFORE you run out and buy a new one, here goes using ONLY a simple 6/12 volt test light or a volt meter provides more information: I hate to see you spend bucks on a switch if its not the problem and you may or may not even get the correct one to match how you're wired up currently ????????

A IGNITION FUNCTION

1) Put the test lamp or meter on the coils input (NOT to distributor) terminal
2) Try the switch in both the START and RUN positions. THERE SHOULD BE COIL VOLTAGE IN BOTH POSITIONS
a) If there's ONLY voltage in the START but NOT RUN position, my guess is the ballast (if any is used?? be it wire or resistive wire link or stand alone device or built right on/in the switch assembly, you may not be able to clearly see or recognize what you have) IS BAD/OPEN orrrrrrrrrr the switch is bad.

I cant say from here what switch assembly you have or what if any ballast you have or what if any modifications may have been made over the years so this is only a start and may or may not be correct.


B) STARTER MOTOR CRANKING FUNCTION

1) Put the test lamp on the solenoids small activation terminal.
2) When the switch is in the START position voltage should appear on that terminal and the solenoid will activate.

a) If NOT, the switch may be bad or the switch may be lacking input voltage or a wire is open from switch down to the solenoid. For the solenoid to engage THERE NEEDS TO BE VOLTAGE ON ITS ACTIVATION TERMINAL plus the solenoid itself needs to be working, they do go bad !!!!!!!!!!!

In the event the battery is good,,,,,,,, and full charged,,,,,,,,,, and all the cables and connections and grounds are all good,,,,,,,,,,, but she cranks poor, you're down to a solenoid or a starter motor problem. HOPE FOR THE SOLENOID AS ITS SOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH CHEAPER. In years past when I didn't have much money I successfully repaired burned/pitted/resistive solenoid contacts by cleaning and smoothing and/or rotating them but I suggest you just buy a new one. If a solenoid is new and perfect (never that good even if new) there will be little voltage drop across it when it's engaged, but if its dropping excess voltage (burned pitted carboned contacts) the starter sees less voltage and cranks poorly.

SUMMARY check for coil voltage in BOTH the start and run switch positions to troubleshoot any switch or ballast problems,,,,,,,,,once that is all good check for the switches start operation where it sends voltage (in start mode) to the solenoid,,,,,,,,,once all that is fixed and if she cranks poorly check to see if its a solenoid or a starter motor problem,,,,,,,,,,,once that's all fixed I will tell you how to troubleshoot any charging problem.

Hope this helps and it may or may not avoid having to buy a new switch !!!!!!!! Still I don't know what switch you have or what type and kind of ballast it may or not have or what mods may have been made etc etc use so I cant guarantees this is correct BUT HEY I TRY MY BEST

Keep me informed, post back any question

Best wishes, God Bless, Happy 4th of July

John T

Click to expand...

JT,

I checked the voltage to the coil and have voltage in both start and run positions.

When I check the solenoid ( lead coming from switch to solenoid) with the switch in start position i get no voltage at all??? So if the solenoid is bad will the motor still turn over? In my experience with cars you would just have a clicking sound.

Thanks for all your help. I am trying to learn as much as possible but may have to have someone else take a look,

You likely have the Delco starter. It works like this. When power is sent to the S terminal on the solenoid -first an electromagnet forces a
piston to slide down a chamber and when it does so, it pushes the starter-drive into mesh with the flywheel (no clicking yet). Once that
piston gets to the end of its travel - it slams against a spring-loaded button/switch. That pushes a brass/copper disc against to
brass/copper studs that connect the battery power to the brushes on the starter and make it spin. This is when it makes the clicking sound.
If the starter works as designed, it makes more noise then that clicking so you cannot hear it. If no spin, but just a click? Lack of power,
bad contacts, or even bad brushes in the starter.

Youre getting there and learning, congratulations and thanks for the feedback. Here we go again, hold on lol


1. "I checked the voltage to the coil and have voltage in both start and run positions."

That tells me at least that portion of the switch is working and (subject to actual voltages and condition of any ballast resistance device ????) any ballast is intact.


2. "When I check the solenoid (lead coming from switch to solenoid) with the switch in start position i get no voltage at all???

Assuming you're talkin about the solenoids small s activation terminal, that tells me EITHER that portion (voltage to solenoid when in START) of the switch is bad orrrrrrrrrrrr the wire is broke open somewhere from switch down to solenoid. Of course no voltage on the small activation terminal of solenoid wont engage the solenoid to make her crank


3. "So if the solenoid is bad will the motor still turn over? In my experience with cars you would just have a clicking sound."

If the solenoid is completely bad (not engaging at all) it cant close the high current contacts so the battery via the big cables isn't getting to the actual starter motor so she's NOT gonna crank. HOWEVER that solenoid clicking sound is often because a) The battery is weak or b) There's a bad/resistive cable or ground or c) Sure the solenoids big contacts can be burned or pitted or carboned up IE Bad solenoid.


HERES MY UPDATED RECOMMENDATIONS


1. You have to FIRST fix/buy new the switch and/or check wires from switch to solenoid so the switch in the START position sends voltage to the solenoids small activation terminal so it engages and if all is good and working will crank.

2. If you use a screwdriver (be careful dont short out) to jump FROM the big battery cable input TO the small S activation terminal (eliminates any switch or broke wire problem) if the solenoid engages and she cranks good then THAT TELLS ME THE SOLENOID ITSELF IS OKAY. Must be a bad switch or wire/connection from switch to solenoid problem.

3. If jumping good hot battery voltage (like on big cable down from battery) to solenoids small activation terminal doesnt make her engage and crank THE SOLENOID MAY BE BAD (but could still have a battery or cable or connection or ground problem). But for now you don't know that because your switch isn't sending voltage to the solenoid in the first place !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It has to be engaged PLUS a good battery and good solenoid contacts and good cables and connections and grounds

NOTE if your starter solenoid is the type I think it is (No Warranty) its a 2 step process, it magnetically pushes the drive gear out and into the flywheel and closes the big contacts so the big battery cable gets electrically attached to the starter motor and she cranks if all is okay.

SUMMARY You have to fix the switch problem (Start function) or the wire so the solenoid receives activation voltage and then see if she cranks ???.If still not, the solenoid may be bad or there's a battery or wiring problem. The screwdriver jump test can help find the problem. The solenoid has to engage before anything takes place but if it does yet she cranks poor it can still be due to a bad solenoid or a battery or cable or ground problem............

BUT YOU ARE MAKING HEADWAY so keep the feedback coming and posting of questions

4. "Thanks for all your help. I am trying to learn as much as possible but may have to have someone else take a look"

You are most welcome and have been a good student, glad I was able to help

Best wishes and God Bless

John T

1. You have to FIRST fix/buy new the switch and/or check wires from switch to solenoid so the switch in the START position sends voltage to the solenoids small activation terminal so it engages and if all is good and working will crank.

Did not do this yet as I wanted to try option 2 as I used to do this on a 68 Mercury i had.

2. If you use a screwdriver (be careful dont short out) to jump FROM the big battery cable input TO the small S activation terminal (eliminates any switch or broke wire problem) if the solenoid engages and she cranks good then THAT TELLS ME THE SOLENOID ITSELF IS OKAY. Must be a bad switch or wire/connection from switch to solenoid problem.

I used a screwdriver to do this and the motor turns over but
will not start. This was with switch in start position. I still get
no reading on the meter when i check to the solenoids small s
activation terminal.
I decided to check the coil again and put the meter on coils
input (NOT to distributor) terminal. I got no reading at all.
Since i had previously gotten a reading ( maybe I did
something wrong first time) I disconnected the wire from the
coil and checked in the start position. The meter read 9 volts.
Reconnected and still got no reading on meter. Didnt check in
run position as I couldn't reach switch and hold meter leads.
I hate to keep bugging you but I am learning and not quite
ready too give up. Thanks

JM

(quoted from post at 09:01:20 07/05/19) Lots of good info here. One thing I do not see mentioned though is was the battery originally hooked up negative ground or positive ground? Did you by accident put in the new battery backwards? My 1010 gas, serial number 25XXX used to not charge and need to be jumped often. It was because the prior owner put the battery in as negative ground instead of positive. Got a new battery, put it in as positive ground (this is how it should be with a generator on an early 1010 gas), set up the coil to work as positive ground, and luckily the generator once again started charging. I have had no issues with a dead battery since.

Also, are you using a braided ground strap or an ground actual cable? If you have a strap is it corroded and rusting along with the sheet metal mounting bolt? I would replace your ground from the battery with a cable, and run it to the starter mounting bolt for a good ground. I have a 2 gauge ground cable on mine and it made a huge difference in starting the tractor.

The ballast for your 1010 gas would be mounted on the underside of the shelf under the dash beneath where the steering knuckle/shaft is located. That is where mine is. It is a white ceramic block with two wires coming off of it.

Click to expand...

Hotflashjr,

Thanks I see the ballast. How would I check to see if the ballast is good. As of now I'm not getting any voltage to the solenoid from the switch which leaves me to think its the switch or the ballast.
JM

(quoted from post at 17:51:34 07/04/19) I had a heck of a time finding it, but here is the ignition switch upgrade kit with a remote ballast resistor I told you about.

If appears the original ignition switch with the built-in resistor was # AR26528. Once the upgrade kit is installed, the ignition switch is
# AT21567. Deere OEM parts are nuts and I would never buy any of this stuff for myself.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto28477.jpg">

Click to expand...

Please identify where the wires in the resistor wiring harness go to. I have replaced the original switch with a resistor and am not sure what wires go where.