4020 coolant in oil after rebuild

mmfarms

Member
Just finished in frame overhaul of a 1967 4020. After a good deal of cranking, I determined the oil pump was back in 180 degrees off (on the wrong TDC). When draining the oil to drop the pan, there was maybe a half cup or so of water in the bottom of the pan.

After dropping the pan, I can't see any obvious sign of it leaking around the sleeves. There is still a waxy residue around them from the john deere o ring soap, also if an o ring was leaking I would expect it to be seeping at a weep hole, which it is not, and yes I cleaned them of any dirt plugs when it was apart. Could it be the head gasket? What else could it be?

The only other possible thing I can think of is the oil cooler, but it seems unlikely that it would suddenly fail at this time, as there was no water in it before. Or possibly residual water from when I power washed it, but I'm 90 percent sure it had a pinkish color, which the Fleet Charge coolant I used is.
 
mmfarms,
If it didn't leak before and now it does my money is on the liner sealing rings. Might have damaged one during installation. I'd agree with TX and do a pressure test and let it stand for awhile. You should see where the problem is. Good Luck!
John
 
It seems to be dripping from around the cam near the number 5 cylinder. I dont think it can be a sleeve, as the drops are forming at the same height or above the bottom of sleeve. I had the rocker arm cover loose to re set the timing of the oil pump. And the gaskets at the bottom of the thermostat housing where it meets the head are leaking. I'm kind of wondering if coolant has gone from there into the rocker arm area and then run down the push rod holes into the pan.

I put some dye in the coolant, only to find the oil is also flourescent, unfortunately. I poured oil into the push rod holes and replaced the cover and gasket, and put the ool pan on loose as a catch basin. So far, 2 days later there's still water in the pan. So I'm starting to doubt the thermostat leaking theory, unless its still getting in there somehow. (Its still leaking, but I don't want to silicone them on if I have to rip them right back off, I don't have any more gaskets).

So I guess the head gasket is probably leaking into the push rod cavity.
 
Turns out it was the head gasket. Put a new
one on and torqued to 130 this time. Will
see how it holds

Having another issue however. Got it
running, and after running about 20 minutes
it is starting to throw oil out of the
exhaust manifold. Is this a normal part of
breaking it in?
 
That is normal, and you will need to ad some break in additive with Zinc in it to get it to break in. You can get a bottle of it at most auto stores.
 
I am using John Deere Break-in Plus. Is it still necessary to use an additive? I'm not at the shop right now to check the bottle.
 
That will be okay to use, you will need to let it run a bit and warm up to start the break in process it will wet stack for a bit.
 

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