JD 2010 Diesel - What is this switch?

Hello all,

First post here. We recently acquired a 1963 JD 2010 Diesel and were working on getting it rewired today as it had some charging and starting issues.

Would any one know what the part number for this little gray switch under the steering wheel would be?

Ours seems to give power and and off to the electrical system but does not make the starter turn over.

It s as if the switch is broken or something. Also would any one know if I can just bypass it?

Looking for some wiring schematics for it online and no luck.


Thank you in advance

Welcome to YT
Are you referring to the push/pull switch? If so I think it's been added after tractor left the JD factory. Does the engine operate on gasoline or diesel? Wiring diagram should be in 2010 industrial tech manual

It is a bit hard to pick out in your picture, but are you referring to the lever switch almost hidden under the steering wheel spoke? I am pretty sure it is not original, so it is hard to tell what a previous owner may have hooked to it from a picture of the knob lever. What does the terminal side of it look like? If it turns power to the whole electrical system off and on it may have been wired as some type of master switch. I think this is a question that it is going to take you doing hands on research to find out what it controls. Sorry but that the best I can determine from your picture and description. And as Tx Jim mentioned the service manual will have wiring diagrams which will help you. SM2036 is the technical service manual for the industrial tractors, which yours appears to be.

Hey thanks for the answers so far, yeah it does act like a master switch. It s not on any of the part manuals that s I ve seen so far.

My only issue in by passing it is the fact that all the accessories will always be on. They do not seem to turn off when the key is in any position and have been wired to this switch.

This will cause battery drain.

I am thinking of getting a new one as they are simple two pole battery cut off switches. The only problem I have is that there are many options to choose from. Some are good up to 250 Crank amps and some are up to 2500 crank amps.

Would any one know how much the diesel draws? My battery is a fresh 1050 crank amps.

Thank you!

I assume that switch is spring loaded and momentary? If so, it is to operate the glow-plugs. Many of those 2010 diesels also had a hand-pump
fuel primer but I do not see one on your's.

That is the manual self destruct switch. You energize it when you find out the head is cracked, the sleeve deck is bad and the hydraulics don't work,along with all the other maladies of a 2010. lol.....

I doubt it is factory so you will probably not find it in any manual.

It sounds like this is not a momentary switch. Does it stay on with out holding it in the on position, keeping the electrical system live, as I understood your previous posts?

The electrical should be turning on and off with the ignition switch, or other factory switch based on the circuit. Along with your descriptions it appears you have several none factory switches, so these are indications it is likely the wiring has problems to me. It really sounds like you need the manual and to rewire your machine correctly.

Most master switches were inserted into a battery cable circuit, often the ground cable to de-energize the entire electrical system. Most reliable ones are rated to take the surge amps of starting, which would be more than 250 amps (go for the higher ratings). I can't say what yours might be without seeing the terminals and wiring to it. Often master switches had 3/8 terminals and a battery size cable on each terminal so the switch could interrupt the current flow through that cable (either ground or hot depending on which cable it is in). It sounds like yours has been installed in the primary feed wire to the accessories, bypassing the correct ignition and factory switches.

The amp rating needed for a master switch will depend where and how you wire it in the circuit. If you just want to shut off accessories 100 amp continuous rating should be fine. To go in a battery cable, look for a master switch like the ones from Pollack or Cat. They will have switches with the heavier cranking/inrush amp ratings to handle starting motors and will handle continuous duty when not cranking.

There are still plenty of 1010 and 2010s around running well, gas and diesel. Mine was manufactured late 1959. Not bad for a 60 year-old machine. 1010 and 2010s were fine for their time of development and had a lot of firsts for Deere. The wet-sleeves, rotary-distributor fuel-injection in the diesels, positive valve-stem seals. Power-shift hydraulic reverser in some of the crawlers.

The way I see it, many of the gripes about the diesels were due to owner and user ignorance. Especially what some people did to those poor things trying to start them cold.

If that switch is NOT momentary, maybe someone added a Deere battery switch from a crawler. This switch came standard on 350 and 450 Deere
crawlers. I have on one my 1010 but added it.

This YT site is doing some weird things. I will try to post that Deere switch again.

(quoted from post at 06:26:56 05/09/20) I assume that switch is spring loaded and momentary? If so, it is to operate the glow-plugs. Many of those 2010 diesels also had a hand-pump
fuel primer but I do not see one on your's.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto4125.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto4126.jpg">

Click to expand...

Sorry I am not referring to the ignition switch, I am talking about the little grey one that is just south of the steering column. No key just on off and stays in position. I am assuming with all the answers so far this wasn t factory.

I am in the field now but I will post a diagram later on this evening.

The wiring is well... home made by the previous owner.
It s by passing the positive side of the battery so there are two hot lines in back of it.

The ground is negative and it has been converted to an alternator setup.

Once again, thanks for the warm welcome and support. I look forward to giving back.

Is it wired to the + side of a negative ground system on your end?

Yup that looks exactly like it with two terminals out the back.
Would you have a part number on it by any chance?

If that black handle down there is for a choke, then my guess would be that the whole panel got replaced with one from a gas tractor, and then got rewired to use the mystery switch as the on/off and the key for the start (to bypass the ballast resistor).

(quoted from post at 10:01:32 05/09/20) If that black handle down there is for a choke, then my guess would be that the whole panel got replaced with one from a gas tractor, and then got rewired to use the mystery switch as the on/off and the key for the start (to bypass the ballast resistor).

Click to expand...

Yes it is the choke and also the only way to turn the tractor off.

Here s my very very crude drawing

(quoted from post at 16:02:15 05/09/20)

(quoted from post at 10:01:32 05/09/20) If that black handle down there is for a choke, then my guess would be that the whole panel got replaced with one from a gas tractor, and then got rewired to use the mystery switch as the on/off and the key for the start (to bypass the ballast resistor).

Click to expand...

Yes it is the choke and also the only way to turn the tractor off.

Here s my very very crude drawing

Click to expand...

Is it battery cable from battery positive to one of the 3/8" terminals of the grey switch? Is it battery cable from the other terminal of the gray switch to the starter solenoid? And the wire from the same terminal (that the solenoid cable attaches to) and goes to the voltage regulator is smaller, like 10 or 12 gauge? If so it has been wired in as a master switch. Nothing to do with gas or diesel in my mind, just something a previous owner added for some reason (maybe the original ignition switch is bad), rather than rewire it by the book. I don't find a master switch being used in the 2010 parts catalog. You asked for a part number for the switch. JD part number AT41188 will get you one, there may be other numbers as JD wouldn't have made the switch they purchase them from vendors. Cole Hersee (Littlefuse), Pollack and others make them.

Again I think you need to get a service manual and rewire it by the manual so you know what you have. If your current "grey switch" is working, relocate it to an out of the way spot and put it in the ground cable. They were often kind of hidden and used as a layer of security to prevent unauthorized starting. The Cat switches had/have removable keys for that reason.

There is a free down-load-able copy of SM2035, which is the service manual for the Ag 2000, 2010 series wheel tractors, on line which will give you something to look at until you find the industrial wheel tractor SM2036 manual. I would expect the wiring to be similar, if not the same.

Here is a link to it: https://archive.org/details/John_Deere_2000_Series_Tractor_Technical_Service_Manual_/mode/2up

You can find the on line parts catalog (PC731 for the industrial tractors) at: https://www.deere.com/en/parts-and-service/parts/

The black pull knob on a 2010 diesel is the fuel shut off cable, not a choke. Those did not have the electric solenoid in the injection pumps, so it will stay running once started, even if the tractor looses electrical power. Beware if the fuel shutoff is in the run position and the tractor is left in gear, a bump, kid pushing the clutch and letting it out when it starts rolling, etc. can be enough to start the engine. It was the rule for many with mechanical shutoffs that the injection pump fuel shutoff was to be left in the off position, Parked where the unit couldn't roll (or wheels blocked to prevent rolling), and transmission in neutral. I mention that in case you are not aware of that and if you have kids around. It might be hard to start when you want it to start, but start easily the one wrong time.

The serial number should be on the engine block, right side. You may need that to be sure you get the correct Operators manual, which you should have to go with the service manual.


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Thanks for the tip! I think you re right, I m going to go the route of bypassing that switch and just adding another one on the ground cable and get it out of the way at the same time.

Rewriting the whole thing would take way to long.

Thanks for the links as well. Much appreciated

Thanks, I didn t know it was the fuel shut off. I taught that was on the line somewhere directly. Always taught it was a choke.

Would you know what the little white knob is next to it?
It seems to have an on off position and nothing in between like the fuel shut off. There is no gradual pushing of the knob. It either clicks on or off.

Thank you once more

(quoted from post at 19:41:02 05/09/20)
Thanks, I didn t know it was the fuel shut off. I taught that was on the line somewhere directly. Always taught it was a choke.

Would you know what the little white knob is next to it?
It seems to have an on off position and nothing in between like the fuel shut off. There is no gradual pushing of the knob. It either clicks on or off.

Thank you once more

Click to expand...

Can't say I've ever seen a diesel with a choke other than the old IH's that started on gas and swapped to diesel. The cable moves a over to shut fuel off inside the injection pump as the normal operational engine shut off. There should be a shut off valve in the fuel line from the tank to use when changing filters, etc.

Hard to tell from the angle of the picture, but on the left it looks like a push starter button, the fuel shut off cable knob, a push/pull electric switch (the white knob), the rotary light switch, and a key switch. As well as the previously discussed switch under the steering wheel.