1976 4230

caseymx · May 7, 2020

I have a John Deere 4230 with the powershift transmission that I bought 2 years ago. I have been using it for the last 2 summers mostly baling hay and it has a small issue that has become annoying but hasn't got worse over time.
Changing from reverse to forward I notice "slack" before the tractor moves forward. For instance, I'm backing up, stop, change into forward gear, start easing out on the clutch and if I'm too aggressive letting out on the clutch I get a slight bang of a take off.
But, if I let out on the clutch just a little and wait a second, for what seems like some backlash to take up, then I get a smooth take off.
When the "bang" happens for some reason I want to say that it seems like the right side drive wheels looks like its taking most of the shock sometimes.
Any one experience any of this before or have an idea of some easy things to check? I'm curious if its maybe the differential or part of the final drive and planetary. I thought about maybe pulling the right side final drive off and see if I notice anything being it doesn't look like too much of a task.

wore out · May 7, 2020

A certain amount of what you are describing is normal. There's lots of splines and gearsets involved, a little play here and a little play there all adds up.

Have you verified that the wheel center tapered hubs are TIGHT and haven't been moving around, wearing the key that engages with the slot in the axle shaft?

If the transmission and final drive seems concerning, the first thing I'd do is check for filings in the filters, and drain the oil and remove and check the transmission pump suction screen for metal.

Insert a shop magnet in the hole the screen was withdrawn from and see what you can pick up in the very bottom of the sump.

You're gonna find at least SOME "silver glitter".

caseymx · May 7, 2020

(quoted from post at 21:24:15 05/07/20) A certain amount of what you are describing is normal. There's lots of splines and gearsets involved, a little play here and a little play there all adds up.

Have you verified that the wheel center tapered hubs are TIGHT and haven't been moving around, wearing the key that engages with the slot in the axle shaft?

If the transmission and final drive seems concerning, the first thing I'd do is check for filings in the filters, and drain the oil and remove and check the transmission pump suction screen for metal.

Insert a shop magnet in the hole the screen was withdrawn from and see what you can pick up in the very bottom of the sump.

You're gonna find at least SOME "silver glitter".

Thanks. Yes the hubs are tight and all. It just seems like a lot of "slop" or more than it should be.
We did a lot of service on it when we got it but can't remember on the filters. I will do them anyway. I see there are 2 on the left side. One is the function oil return filter and the other is the transmission oil filter. Is there also a pickup screen for the transmission pump?

MSM · May 8, 2020

Changing from forward to reverse just
throttle down and shift. There is no
"clutch" on a powershift. It is an
inching pedal, to ease when backing
up to hook up an implement.when you
use it as a clutch it dumps all
hydraulic pressure to the trans which
has to build back up before the
tractor will move giving you the
delay/clunk. You can change the rate
of shift valve adjustment to firm up
or soften the shifts.

tim s · May 9, 2020

Have some one watch the axles and do the forward/reverse shift a few times,, the bolts can be tight, but the key way can be worn,,I had a 3020 acting the same way this week.

caseymx · Jun 3, 2020

(quoted from post at 21:24:15 05/07/20) A certain amount of what you are describing is normal. There's lots of splines and gearsets involved, a little play here and a little play there all adds up.

Have you verified that the wheel center tapered hubs are TIGHT and haven't been moving around, wearing the key that engages with the slot in the axle shaft?

The tapered wedges were the issue on one side. Removed both wedges, cleaned and re-installed. There is a good bit of clearance in the key and key way but neither shows signs of wear. Seems to be holding so far. Only used it once moving hay since. Going to check bolts again to make sure they are still tight. I hope I don't have to remove it again because the geared adjuster is frozen to the housing and the wrench head is completely rusted off. Also had to make a tool from 4" pipe to drive the wedge loose.
Thanks for the heads up on this! Never occurred to me to look there but a little play there makes a big difference!

1976 4230

caseymx

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wore out

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caseymx

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MSM

Well-known Member

tim s

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caseymx

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