Poly gas tanks

S Oreilly

Member
Greetings List: I am thinking about replacing the metal gas tank on my 3010. I have problems with crud getting into the carb even with fuel filter. Any thoughts on these poly tanks? Thanks in advance.
 
I replaced the diesel tank on my 4020 last year, as the bottom was pretty well rusted out. It had a slight leak, and when I got to poking around the drain valve, it turned out that the rust had the bottom looking like Swiss cheese.
I researched the poly tanks and saw several comments about how hard it was to get the clamps to hold, etc. I decided that the potential savings were not worth the aggravation of a difficult install. I got a new metal tank from Deere. The installation was not difficult for one person, but I did have to try a couple of times, because if the tank is not just so, then the body panels won't line up correctly or the fuel filler neck won't be centered in the hood. The tank is held in place with metal straps, and the straps also hold the air cleaner. Here's a hint on the install: put a block of wood (2x6 or plywood) under the air cleaner and a small bottle jack under that. Then it is much easier to get it lined up correctly.
 
It would've been great if the designers of the poly tanks got the dimensions and wall thickness correct in the first place. So this is another example of aftermarket parts not living up to their
expectations and customers asking themselves, "Why didn't I pay the premium and buy the Deere part in the first place". I experienced this with a lousy aftermarket radiator for a 4000. Never again!
 

Great info, I hadn't thought to look for new metal tanks. This is a great forum. Several years ago I belonged to an old Chevy truck forum. Great info there. Experience makes a big difference. Thanks again.
 
Have you researched the relining services? Steam cleaned and lined, at least you know it will fit correctly.

I checked into it with my 4430 diesel tank to combat the black goo, but was able to clean mine out sufficiently.
 
I've thought about it. I haven't removed the tank yet. I know there is a lot of rust particles in there. When I dump 15 gallons of gas in there, I have to wait a whole day before things settle to the bottom. I haven't owned this tractor very long so I am still learning about things. Things like front wheel starts to wobble and turns out four of six bolts are missing. Can't believe I didn't notice that. A farmer who lives close by said he had the same thing happen with a 4020. Thanks for the responses.
 
You can take the tank off, pressure wash it from the filling hole and gage hole, then dry it with a electric or propane paint remover heating gun. JBWELD will go a long way on holes.
 
Replaced the steel tank in my '64 3020D with a poly tank last year. The steel tank was probably the original one but I am not positive of that. If so, 54 years of
service is pretty good. Anyway, my poly tank from A&I I believe installed and fit fine. Im sure if I get half the life out of it as the steel tank I will be happy since
I probably wont have the tractor more than 15 additional years or so (but one never knows). Regardless of what you do, you will be glad you removed the old tank-----it
was unbelieveable how much composted debris was surrounding the base of the tank and needed to be cleaned out of there. Which reminds me.....I should get the steel tank
cleaned up and listed for sale.
 
At the very least, drain the tank, pull the petcock, and try to rinse as much debris out with a water hose that you can. Of course don't refill until it's completely dry.
 

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