7520 Aneroid

I'm looking into eliminating the aneroid on the 7520 to get a little more bottom end and have a few questions. I understand how the aneroid works but not sure on the best way to eliminate it. I began disassembly of it and have the entire neck/plunger assembly off. I chipped the neck housing so I'm hoping I can make a cover plate and leave the whole thing off rather than finding a replacement and putting it back on.




Anyhow, looking inside I see a cross shaft with a small finger on it.



I can't really tell what the finger actuates but when cross shaft (ie start button) is pushed in, the finger also slides over. I know this allows more fuel at start-up. Not sure how it does this by just sliding over but they don't start worth a crap if that button doesn't operate.

I know that as boost is built, the diaphram/plunger pushes down on that finger and as boost decreases, the spring helps pull the finger back upward.

My question is, can I delete the entire plunger and if so, can I just push down on that finger and leave it or do I need to keep the plunger intact in order to keep the finger in a fixed position. I'm worried that finger might move on it's own if nothing's holding it. I also don't want it to affect starting.

Easiest way to "lock out" the aneroid on that one is to HOLD IN the external shift rod. Some Bosch aneroid rods need held out though to disconnect the aneroid. You MAY not need to do anything but back off the aneroid diaphragm tension spring to help too. Pumps with aneroid option can be touchy to set as it takes fuel to make boost, and boost for the aneroid to give more fuel. Set too tight, engine is sluggish. Set too loose and acceleration smoke will increase, what the aneroid is on to stop in the first place..

(quoted from post at 08:35:02 03/30/20) Easiest way to "lock out" the aneroid on that one is to HOLD IN the external shift rod. Some Bosch aneroid rods need held out though to disconnect the aneroid. You MAY not need to do anything but back off the aneroid diaphragm tension spring to help too. Pumps with aneroid option can be touchy to set as it takes fuel to make boost, and boost for the aneroid to give more fuel. Set too tight, engine is sluggish. Set too loose and acceleration smoke will increase, what the aneroid is on to stop in the first place..

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So if the cross-shaft ie start button is held inward at all times, that would be considered max fuel? I can def. rig up a way to do that.

My goal is to eliminate the air tube coming from the intake. It's possible it has a leak but I just want to get rid of it altogether.

I thought about adjusting the click wheel/spring tension but after I busted the housing trying to get the rusty screws out, I would rather just make a cover plate and cap it off.

Cover the hole, and hold the rod IN all the time so rack can reach full travel for the plunger retard timing notch to work..