Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
I hauled it home Sunday. I posted a question on this last fall but decided to pass but really wanted it. He still had it in January so we made a deal. It's in nice shape and has a Sur-Lock quick attach. Came off a 4020, I'm putting it on a 1550 RC. Shouldn't need much modification to fit. Gonna be a real back-saver.
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You will need to change the hyd control from a closed center type to an open center valve to match your tractor's hyd system.

I think your tractor's hyd system is open center but search of Traactordata didn't verify that fact.
 
May as well find you a 4020 now ! Is that going on an Oliver ? if so you will need another hyd. valve as that one is a closed center valve. Unless it can be converted to open center ?
 
I think that'll make a better loader than the DuAl that I have on my 1600. That one tends to want to twist a lot.
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:09 03/26/20) I hope you have mounting brackets for your tractor, Mother Deere isn't timid with prices.

To my knowledge JD furnished model 148 FEL mounting brackets for JD tractors only not other brands of tractors.

Please publish which if any tractor manufacturer is "timid" when it comes to prices on parts/attachments. IMHO the 3 different tractor brands parts/attachment for all brands that I own are all very high priced.
 
Has anyone used Farmhand mounting brackets with a 148, the loaders look identical just didn't know if a guy could swap loaders with the brackets. Maybe you could look for Farmhand brackets(for an Oliver) for your 148.
 
PO had replaced the valve with a Prince from Northern. It work either CC or OC. This the 402 it came off, yeah I'd love to have one but I have to be content with my A and H. The holes to the rear of the pads will match up with the Oliver sides. Just have to open them up to 3/4. The front end doesn't match up but the sides are about and inch narrower. I'll bolt a plate there and tap holes in it to match the JD sides. The square tube out the front is too long, haven't decided what to do about that yet. I got it covered, guys. I did a lot of measuring and planning before I made up my mind on it.
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It is, Dan. Some of the timbers are 45 feet long and there some 2 foot wide boards in the roof. The trolley is still up there too but it's stuck from rust and bird nests. I tried to work it loose with the trip rope but it was old and it broke out of reach.
 

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This 148 loader is mounted with brackets that a local welder built for me about 4 years ago using a set of brackets a friend had and served as a pattern to copy . Cost me around $700.00. I too really like the 148 Series and have 2 of them. Don't look to close at the poor old 4020 , it was rescued from the salvage buyer and is slowly being renewed.
 
If the square tube out front is too long you may want to slide the whole mounting bracket back until the front bracket meets the front of the tractor. The loader was designed for that. Mounting the loader farther forward than necessary will put extra stress on the tractor's front axle without gaining any advantages.
 
That would move it back six inches which is about what it needs. That would leave me with one bolt behind the ells but may put the front bolts in line. I'll try it.
 
I strongly recommend that the older frame is also attached to the rear trumpet housings with square tubing. Just like the factory mounts for 245 loaders on utility Tractors.
 
Just meant they wouldn't be cheap. I've sold two 148's and a 158, I still have mounting brackets for two, because people didn't want them.
 
If spacers will be needed between the tractor frame and the loader mount, could you fasten the spacers to the tractor with flat head bolts (counter sunk heads) and fasten the loader mount to the spacer plates? That might let you get bolts in all the tapped holes in the tractor frame. Deere did something similar on the #48 loader mounts for their utility tractors (1020 to 2020). The optional engine side frames were bolted to the tractor with flat head bolts.
 

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