bendix binding with ring gear

jd2cyl

Member
A model 60 s/n6057739, started having trouble getting it started. Worked one day and not the second scenario. Thought it was the starter so took it to a shop, they said the bushings were bad and had let the armature drag against the coils. The shop showed me the evidence of what was happening while I was there. Got that fixed but now when engaging the starter the bendix gear will mesh with the ring gear but won't release or go back home. I've tried adjusting the rod from pedal to switch but when the bendix is stuck in the ring gear you have to pry it back with a screw driver. Only thing I can come up with is the bushing is bad on the crankshaft letting the distance between the flywheel ring gear and starter bendix causing the binding. What else can I try?
 
Did they replace the drive gear on the starter and the nose bushing as well? Nose end of armature shaft may have been worn and not fitting in new nose bushing tightly.
 
Should be easy enough to set up some blocks, then rest a pry bar on blocks and lift up on flywheel, noting if there's any noticeable movement from a worn main bearing.

If that's not the case, perhaps there's some debris in the way, and the starter isn't fitted up tight and square to it's mounting area, causing the gear not to mesh squarely.

Other possibilities are that the "nose cone" has cracked and net yet broken, or your complete starter, "nose cone", or starter drive somehow go swapped at the starter shop.
 
You will need to inspect everything from the ring gear, starter drive gear, starter integrity, battery, springs and linkage. It should not bind. A small difference in the crankshaft end play would not generally be an issue.
I had similar issues with my 60 and bit the bullet and replaced the ring gear after a starter rebuild and everything was fine.
 
In addition to the good advice, I'd add a couple of easy things to check. When the starter gear is engaged the teeth on the bendix should lack about the diameter of a paperclip wire from bottoming in the "V" of the ring gear. When engaged the ring gear should be pretty much centered on the starter teeth; when the starter is unengaged and "retracted" it should clear the ring gear about two paperclip wires diameter. You might want to put a visible film of white lithium grease on the gear to see where it's binding. Prussian Blue is better but not as available. I hate to even bring this up, but (shudder) check to see that the flywheel isn't cracked and the ring gear is all that's holding it together. Good luck and let us know what you find out!
 
Sometimes, it's as simple as shimming the starter, from inside the housing, away from the flywheel with some 16GA sheet metal. I've had to do this in the past. Made a pattern out of cardboard, that goes over the cone, and is the same shape as the ears that bolt the starter to the housing. You may have to play around with different thickness or make multiple shims.
 

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