John Deere 50 clutch problem

pmarkel

Member
I bought a 50 recently and just replaced the pully brake pad. The old one was bad and the rivets have dug deep grooves in the clutch drum surface, worse than any of my other Deere's. I'm having a tough time getting the new brake adjusted right ( which I have never found difficult in the past). I can turn the screw in until the pully brake catches but then it seems like the actuating pin is still engaged and the tractor still wants to jerk forward when you pull the clutch lever. It seems like the brake screw needs to be turned out a bit but then the pad doesn't catch enough. There's about half the friction surface gone where the rivets dug in. Could this be my problem?
 
If the 50 is like my 80 and 70 there is an internal adjustment that's probably out of whack if your pulley is worn that bad.

The clutch brake actuating pin has shims to adjust it and the endplay of the pulley. Depends on the serial number of your tractor if it's shimmed or not.

But that's my guess

Brandon
 
Seems to me that I had to weld up the actuating pin since it was worn down shorter. Call your local JD dealer and see if they can give you the specs of the pin to get yours to the right length. Also replace the oring for the pin while out.
 
My JD 50 clutch has got to have the pulley brake set exactly right or the clutch will engage when you pull the clutch lever all of the way back. I keep the pulley brake set a little tighter than I would prefer it to be, to prevent this. This is very dangerous - the harder you try to stop, the faster it goes.

If your little torsion spring is missing - the one that lifts the brake pad off of the pulley - you can make a new one out of high tensile fence wire.
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:59 02/02/20) Seems to me that I had to weld up the actuating pin since it was worn down shorter. Call your local JD dealer and see if they can give you the specs of the pin to get yours to the right length. Also replace the oring for the pin while out.
I took the clutch apart last night. The operating pin has some wear on the one end so I will replace it. The crank spline's and driver appear ok and the facings were old but not shot, I will replace them anyhow while I am in there. The only thing odd that I found was that the pulley bearing was tight from old dried grease. I hit it with some brake clean and it loosened right up. Will put it back together when I have the parts and see how it works.
 
(quoted from post at 22:32:50 02/04/20)
I assume you put some new grease back in the bearing. If not, be sure you do.
yes, sure will. I try to make a habit off it now that I have heard the horror stories of that bearing freezing and keeping the clutch engaged
 

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