John deere 70 diesel flywheel

My son bought a 70 diesel and we got the manual for it today. The pictures show a flywheel with pinch bolts to tighten it on the crankshaft. This tractor has a taper lock but the flywheel is solid. it doesn't have the pinch bolts. Do they supply a whole new flywheel when you buy a taper lock or is this flywheel actually off something else. It seems to me that the flywheel needs to go on farther. The square for tightening the taper lock is only half way on when it is tight.
 
Jim,

Here is some of my experience with an original (Allen Machine Works) taper lock flywheel. I have a printed copy of their installation procedure somewhere and know I have posted
it online before, should be able to google the procedure.
Taper Lock Flywheel
 
(quoted from post at 01:02:36 11/09/19) Jim,

Here is some of my experience with an original (Allen Machine Works) taper lock flywheel. I have a printed copy of their installation procedure somewhere and know I have posted
it online before, should be able to google the procedure.
Taper Lock Flywheel

Thanks for the reply. Our flywheel must be a new recast one because it looks just like the new one you show in the pictures. It doesn't have the holes or the pinch bolts.

Does your square nut go all the way on when it is tight. Ours is only about half way on. Also our crankshaft has more endplay than it should. We took it all apart and it just looks like it needs reshimed to get the proper endplay but this requires a spacer to simulate the flywheel and using the original nut that threaded onto the crankshaft. the crankshaft threads are really bad so I doubt the nut would fit even if we had one. I am thinking about drilling the end of the crank for a bolt and a big washer to tighten the spacer against the crankshaft for checking endplay.
 

We also found a bad bearing in the idler timing gear that is mounted between the crank and cam. We have a new bearing coming for that. I guess these tractors are known for that.
 
They come with new flywheel and the hub that
slides on crank.it takes a little time setting
crankshaft endplay , and a lot of hits with big
sledgehammer, hit flywheel one hit at a time
alternating sides and snug up big nut every time
you hit it
 
Jim,

That spacer is just a piece of pipe that just fits over the crankshaft and it measures 3 1/4 inch if I remember correctly, check manual to be sure. Go to your your local plumbing
supply store and have them cut one for you. I bought a new original nut to hold that spacer and cleaned the crank treads with a stiff wire brush. Be sure to block the crank to the
left when adjusting the end play with clutch engaged. As Blksmok said the slinger maybe too worn to get the proper adjustment without being replaced. Sometimes Sharpes has
some good used ones at a reasonable price. If I remember correctly the big square nut seemed to go on far enough . Remember the collet needs to go on first and slide it on till it
hits as shown in my pics. Then the flywheel goes onto the collet by hitting the large surface with the biggest sledge you can find, think I used a 12lbs, 16 lbs is recommended . Hit
it just ONCE, then tighten big nut using a huge pipe wrench. You might want to contact "Blksmok" from this site as his knowledge of these tractors is best IMHO.
 
A tool I built so as to drill accurately the end of several styled JD "Ds". Tapped and threaded to 5/8 11 TPI:

Shims are placed between the end of the Crank, and the RETAINER WASHER and or between the FACE of the RETAINER WASHER and the FACE of the FLY WHEEL:

Flywheel cannot move linearly ...

Bob...Retire Power Engineer....Having fun.:)
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