Kermit Vetter
Member
This engine has an electronic ignition system. But when cranking the engine I get no spark at the plug wires. What could be my problem?
- Thread starter Kermit Vetter
- Start date
wore out
Well-known Member
Check for battery power at the coil (on top of the engine) with an unpowered test light.
With the ignition switch "ON", the terminal connected to the tractor wiring harness should have constant battery voltage.
The other coil should "flash" the test light on and off as the engine is cranked, as the ignition module beneath the flywheel gets triggered once per engine revolution..
Check that out and post back.
With the ignition switch "ON", the terminal connected to the tractor wiring harness should have constant battery voltage.
The other coil should "flash" the test light on and off as the engine is cranked, as the ignition module beneath the flywheel gets triggered once per engine revolution..
Check that out and post back.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
You might get better replies on the garden tractor forum.
kleine39kermit
Member
Okay here is what I have on the coil. One terminal has the condenser wire, a black wire from down below and a white wire from the harness attached to it and this one flashes when turn the motor over.
The other terminal has only one pink wire attached and this one is steady hot with the ignition on. There is a wire harness that has 2 wires coming from it and they are split. Black to one side off the coil and the other (pink) to the other side of the coil.
The other terminal has only one pink wire attached and this one is steady hot with the ignition on. There is a wire harness that has 2 wires coming from it and they are split. Black to one side off the coil and the other (pink) to the other side of the coil.
wore out
Well-known Member
Has this thing been running and quit all at once, or has it not had spark since being tinkered with, as you description of the wiring seems a bit "off" from how it should be?
In this case (with the EI) the condenser is for noise suppression only, and is connected to the powered low-tension coil terminal.
(Official DEERE factory diagram.)
The white ignition power wire coming from the engine harness connector, the condenser lead, and the Orange wire from the module under the flywheel all go to the (+) terminal on the coil, only the black wire from the ignition module goes to the (-) terminal on the coil, and is the one that should flash a test light when the engine is cranking.
Can you confirm this is EXACTLY how it's actually connected on yours, from your description, it seems there may be some wrong connections.
Seems like a good sign if the test light flashes, would seem to indicate the module hasn't been "fried" (yet).
Kermit Vetter
Member
Thank You. This helps a lot. The power terminal on the coil that burns steady has only the one lead attached. The other terminal that has all the other wires attached Flashes or flickers when engine is
cranked. Does not flash only once when engine turns over. My Nephew got this tractor when he bought this place and it was not running and no one wanted to work on the engine so I got the pleasure of trying to
fix it. It had stuck intake valves and one is bent. So I need to pull the engine to take it to a shop to do a valve job on it. This is beginning to be a pain.
cranked. Does not flash only once when engine turns over. My Nephew got this tractor when he bought this place and it was not running and no one wanted to work on the engine so I got the pleasure of trying to
fix it. It had stuck intake valves and one is bent. So I need to pull the engine to take it to a shop to do a valve job on it. This is beginning to be a pain.
Kermit Vetter
Member
Sorry No I haven't as yet. I'm ill with some kind of chest and nasal congestion plus it is cold and windy out. the tractor is under an open shed but I don't want to risk getting sicker.
Since I'm in the process of removing the engine and the fly wheel, should I consider replacing the ignition module that is behind the flywheel? One other thing, the fuel pump which is mounted on the fly wheel cover is impossible to get to and remove when the engine is installed. It's held by 2 Phillips screws and the fuel lines and a vacuum line from the engine. I have a new original fuel pump or should I replace it with an electric fuel pump which I also have? The fuel lines have been on there since 1987 and look brittle so I'm thinking of replacing them too since I have this tractor apart.
Kermit
Since I'm in the process of removing the engine and the fly wheel, should I consider replacing the ignition module that is behind the flywheel? One other thing, the fuel pump which is mounted on the fly wheel cover is impossible to get to and remove when the engine is installed. It's held by 2 Phillips screws and the fuel lines and a vacuum line from the engine. I have a new original fuel pump or should I replace it with an electric fuel pump which I also have? The fuel lines have been on there since 1987 and look brittle so I'm thinking of replacing them too since I have this tractor apart.
Kermit
kleine39kermit
Member
I checked the wiring today and the only wire connected to the minus side is a black wire. Other 3 are connected to the positive side, so this looks correct. The orange, condenser lead and a wire that looks
white and black are on the + side.
white and black are on the + side.
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