CRracer712
Member
Ended up buying an AI lift link shaft and lower yoke to replace, presumably, the original left lift link on my 3020.
The right side I believe to at least have a new JD lift link.
The AI parts thread together as they should. The cast lower yoke has a couple pits in the exterior casting and the hole the lift link threads in is at a slight angle. The lift link itself doesn't have the Grove on the shaft that indicates it's screwed all they way in. Not a big deal.
They opening in the lower yoke that hold the seal was actually a bit loose, ended up using a center punch on the top flat just outside where the seal sits to 'stake' it a bit so the seal stayed in place and not be pushed out when greasing.
The lower hole in the threads on the AI shaft required a 1/4" roll pin(original uses 3/16"), ground down to just clear the threads due to the lower yoke being drilled at a slight angle as well as have quite a bit of cast flash that would prevent the standard 1 1/8" length roll pin from allowing the lift link to rotate.
IDK it the JD parts are still available, the dealer priced me AI parts to start with, said JD would be a lot more. After doing some checking, allpartsstore.com it AI. I was able to buy the parts there quite a bit cheaper than through the dealer, have them shipped direct to me. Had to select my local dealer during checkout and it states all returns go through the dealer.
Anyways, my lift link shafts are 100% functional(smooth operation, easy threading, yet tight, no slop), now look like new. As soon as I'm done cleaning up and painting my draft links, I'll be back in business.
Taking them apart was quite a chore, 52 years worth of steel/cast contact took lots of hear and a good sized hammer.
AI link and lower yoke on left
The right side I believe to at least have a new JD lift link.
The AI parts thread together as they should. The cast lower yoke has a couple pits in the exterior casting and the hole the lift link threads in is at a slight angle. The lift link itself doesn't have the Grove on the shaft that indicates it's screwed all they way in. Not a big deal.
They opening in the lower yoke that hold the seal was actually a bit loose, ended up using a center punch on the top flat just outside where the seal sits to 'stake' it a bit so the seal stayed in place and not be pushed out when greasing.
The lower hole in the threads on the AI shaft required a 1/4" roll pin(original uses 3/16"), ground down to just clear the threads due to the lower yoke being drilled at a slight angle as well as have quite a bit of cast flash that would prevent the standard 1 1/8" length roll pin from allowing the lift link to rotate.
IDK it the JD parts are still available, the dealer priced me AI parts to start with, said JD would be a lot more. After doing some checking, allpartsstore.com it AI. I was able to buy the parts there quite a bit cheaper than through the dealer, have them shipped direct to me. Had to select my local dealer during checkout and it states all returns go through the dealer.
Anyways, my lift link shafts are 100% functional(smooth operation, easy threading, yet tight, no slop), now look like new. As soon as I'm done cleaning up and painting my draft links, I'll be back in business.
Taking them apart was quite a chore, 52 years worth of steel/cast contact took lots of hear and a good sized hammer.
AI link and lower yoke on left