1971 John Deere 120 Information

1971Deere120

New User
New here. Gotta couple questions....I received and JD 1971 120 from my son because it just needed so much work it seemed hopeless. Well...I did it. It's as good as it was when it was new. New paint, motor was freshened up (K301). It purrs. But now I want to keep it and I can't find any info on it anywhere. So here's my question....I found 227 page download on a 140. Besides the engine difference, are they the same?
mvphoto42613.jpg


mvphoto42614.jpg
 
The early 140's had a 12 HP (K301) engine and single hydraulics (H1), and a triple hydraulics (H3) option. H1 versions came with a pair of hydraulic couplers in the front, and H3 versions had two pairs.

At serial # 10,001 they were upgraded to a 14 HP K321 engine.

Later, to have a lower priced tractor to be competitive, they came out with the 120, which once again had a 12 HP (K301) engine.

It had only mower lift hydraulics, with the lines in place so a single pair of hydraulic couplers could be installed on the front to operate equipment such as a snowblower.

140 hydrostatic transmission was changed to a newer-style at serial # 30,001, and that same transmission was used in the 120's.

Short version is that the 120's are VERY similar to the 140's after #30,000, but have a smaller engine and a simpler hydraulics system.
 
They are basically the same unit other than he 140 has more features than the 120.
The 140 has lights and either 1 or 3 hydraulic remotes where the 120 is a manual lift system.

Look up Weekend Freedom Machines and there will be more post about them.

I have a 140H3 and it's a sweet machine!
 
(quoted from post at 06:08:03 09/14/19) They are basically the same unit other than he 140 has more features than the 120.
The 140 has lights and either 1 or 3 hydraulic remotes where the 120 is a manual lift system.

Look up Weekend Freedom Machines and there will be more post about them.

I have a 140H3 and it's a sweet machine!

"the 120 is a manual lift system"

Nope, as I stated in my earlier reply, the 1967 "120" DOES have a hydraulic left system, but a less elaborate version than the 140.
 
I ran into another problem
today. I need to know how to
purge the hydrostatic
Transmission. I also need to
know what I'm up against if that
doesn't work. I tried to cut
grass today after I got the deck
on. Blades are sharp, clutch
and light worked
fine...hydraulic lift for deck
even worked great. But I
struggle to go forward and have
no reverse. It really struggles
under load.
<img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto36464.jpg"
>

<img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto36465.jpg"
>
 
Thanks a lot for all the help,
by the way. It's been a
headache, but I'm sure it will
be worth it when everything is
right again.
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:27 09/14/19) I ran into another problem
today. I need to know how to
purge the hydrostatic
Transmission. I also need to
know what I'm up against if that
doesn't work. I tried to cut
grass today after I got the deck
on. Blades are sharp, clutch
and light worked
fine...hydraulic lift for deck
even worked great. But I
struggle to go forward and have
no reverse. It really struggles
under load.
&lt;img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto36464.jpg"
&gt;

&lt;img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto36465.jpg"
&gt;

There's NO need to "purge" the hydrostatic drive system, just be sure it's full of oil.

Based on your symptoms, I'd suspect the "hydrostatic relief valves", the knob in the center just ahead of the seat in the "fender deck" is used to open a couple of oil bypasses that allow to tractor to be moved sort distances.

Is the knob in the fully CCW position, but it probably doesn't, matter, if anyone's mucked with it, likely the (rusted) hydro relief valves are stuck in the "down position", bypassing oil that should be moving the tractor.

You can have a look to see if the little "pins" that protrude from them are stuck and try to loosen 'em and get 'em to pop up with some wiggling and "loosen juice".



irza5ko.jpg


Key # 16, note there's two, side-by-side.

If you can't get 'em loose,or they leak, you can buy used, new, or rebuilt relief valves on fleabay.

Search for "DEERE hydro relief valves".

If the valves aren't the issues, other POSSIBILITIES would be the driveshaft and couplings, sheared keyway or splines at a whee hub, or sever internal hydro damage, but check out the relief valves FIRST.
 
I know it's been a while, but
you were right on the money with
your diagnosis. Backed that knob
off, started it up and they
popped out. Been cutting with it
ever since. Thank you again for
the help. She's a gem.
 

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