synchro-range shifter repair jd4030

So, the synchro-range shifter finally went south on the jd 4030. This is the 8 forward two reverse version where the linkage/shifter is attached to a post on the right side of
the cab area, not the dash. Using the r25801 parts diagram for the shifter assembly ( and I am not certain this is exactly the correct one, but at least the one I got from the
jd parts guy) parts number 6 and the metal block holding it, have broken away (poor weld) from part number 8. So now, I cannot find any gears, only one or two forward, and one
reverse (high gear unfortunately). The park position is now no longer all the way forward and to the left, it is somewhere halfway back.

The question becomes, if I can get a new part, how do I install it to get that groove on part 6 to engage the half-moon shaped runner guide at the bottom of part 12, the shift
lever? The two ends of part 6 need to engage slots in part 10 on one side, and part 15 on the other. Do those two round plates (10 and 15) surrounding the shifter lever simply
pull apart? hAS ANYONE DONE THIS REPAIR REPLACEMENT? wOULD IT BE EASIEST TO SIMPLY WELD PART 6 AND ITS HOLDER BLOCK BACK ONTO PART 8, AND IF SO IS IT A SUCCESSFUL FIX? iT WAS
NOT WORKING SMOOTHLY TO BEGIN WITH, AND i SUSPECT THAT IS WHY IT BROKE IN THE FIRST PLACE.

Should I replace any other parts while I have the assembly apart?

Thanks in advance. Rob.

I've repaired many DEERE shift mechanisms, but not that exact one.

Typically, it's just a lot of parts to remove and replace and attention to detail, not exactly rocket surgery.

Looks like the part you need (since you mention "cab") is AR62258 at almost $200.

If the issue is just a broken weld, and nothing is badly worn or bent, I think I'd give welding it a try before going through all the work of R+R'ing all those parts and buying a $200 piece.

I will second just welding the part rather than buying new. I rarely buy the drums or shifter mounts. I just weld them up an take a die grinder/file and make everything tight again.

Also QUIT driving it!!!!! Your just guessing at what your engaging the tractor in. Park is just a guess.

As for how to work on it. You need to take the shift rods off both drums/quadrants. Then take the through bolts ( 30 & 31, I think)this will allow you to take the entire shifter out of the console. IRC it goes out the bottom. Been years since I have done one on a cab/four post tractor. Then take it apart. You will need to replace or repair everything that is worn. The latch #6, needs to be in good shape the top slot usually gets worn too wide and than does not lock the quadrants/drums like it should. Also the mount (the piece you say is broke off the main mount)has a cross hole that a pin goes through to hole the latch/#6 in place. I usually just weld them shut and drill them to the correct size using new pins. The quadrants/drums have bushings that they pivot on, these are usually worn out so replace them. The pin on the support #28A should fit the new bushing without must slop. If not you need to replace the pin or build it up. The slots in the quadrants/drums need to fit the latch. They are usually worn out so I build them up with weld and grind them to fit the latch.

All of this is not rocket science. The left quadrant/drum shifts the ranges in the transmission. This would be when the shift lever is to the left. When you have the speed/range selected the slot on the low/hi/reverse quadrant should be lined up with the latch. So when you move the lever to the right it latches the speed/range quadrant/drum from moving. The low is forward. Hi is back and reverse is clear back IF your in the first two speeds/ranges. If not the slot does not allow you to shift into reverse. You just have to have things fairly tight and adjusted to where the slots lineup. The get the slots to line up you adjust the yokes on the shifter rods.

I would also replace the detent springs in the side of the transmission. I think the numbers are R51865 & R59378.

If you can weld, use a grinder and files you can do this repair. If you replace everything that is worn with new and hire it done you can easily have a $1000 + in the repair.

Shifters that are worn and out of adjustment ruin many transmissions. Many guys just think they can brute force the tractor into gear without paying a price for it.

Looking at the detent springs closer I think you just 2 of the R59348s. It is hard to know exactly without the serial number.

If I indicated this had a cab, it doesn't. Someone else thought so as well. THIS DOES NOT HAVE A CAB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chassis serial number 00158r if that means anything. Yes, i realize it isn't rocket science, someone else let me know that as well. I replaced the plate that engages the slots and runs along the shifter bottom guide rail, buttoned everything back together, and basically I am in the same boat. Park is still not in the right place, I can get one or two forward gears, but no reverse anywhere. Now it seems the clutch does not allow me to shift gears without grinding, but once the gear is found, the clutch acts like a clutch, let it out and I go forward, but only in second range, where it now seems the park position is. No reverse can be found anywhere.

I'm loosing out on acres of expensive alfalfa that I need to feed to milking animals, not to mention the use of expensive irrigation water I've already paid for and cannot replace once it goes down the ditch, so repair cost is relative in my world. This loss alone is worth well over $1000 to me.

Do you know how to get the slotted "drums" as you call them apart, as now I will have to replace shifter lever itself, the guide rail at the bottom has broken off. Do you know how to get that retaining ring #1 off, it looks to be pressed on?

And I forgot to add, I've had the shifter assembly out of the tractor at least a 7 or 8 times, so I know to disconnect the shifter arms to the transmission.

(quoted from post at 07:07:55 08/13/19) THIS DOES NOT HAVE A CAB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! .

Click to expand...

You could have fooled me!

(From your first post: "the linkage/shifter is attached to a post on the right side of the cab area"

"Do you know how to get that retaining ring #1 off, it looks to be pressed on?"

The parts catalog calls that a "spacer" (R62927). I wonder if it's simply rusted in place?

I have a shop manual, I will try to remember to look later and see if there's any detailed instructions for the shifter unit.

Wonder what's going on with the clutch... was it working correctly, then started to act up suddenly while not being used heavily? Or?

When the lock was out of the quadrant/drum assembly you got the two drums out of time. Now you can not get them back in time because the lock is engaging in the wrong spots.

First thing to do is unhook both shifter linkages. You now need to get the tractor into park. The range shifter has low/high/reverse on it. So it has three four detents. Push it UP all of the way and then drop it back down one. You should have it in neutral. Then the Speed shifter will have five detents, counting park, push it all the way up. You should now be in park with everything in neutral. ( If you have the tractor on a flat surface jacking the right rear tire up makes the shifting easier. You can easily rock the tire while shifting the transmission.)

With it in park then take the drum/quadrant assembly out. You need to have the drums/quadrants in the park position when you install them in the tractor. IF you can get the latch out with the shifter in then just remove it and get them into the park position. Then with the drums in the park position the shifter linkage should hook right up with everything in time.

The collar you talking about should just be loose on the cross shaft. It has been years since I had a 30 series sync range shifter apart. They are just a little different than the 20 series. So I can not tell you 100% how that collar comes off. I do know it is not pressed on.

It sounds like your very frustrated with this right now. Try to be calm about it. I know it is not easy when your under pressure. If you try to force the shifter in a moment of frustration you can make your repair vastly worse. Up to including splitting the tractor to fix internal shifter parts. I hope nothing is damaged now. The clutch not seeming allow shifts could be just that you need to adjust the clutch which is external. It also could mean you have one of the SYNCHRONIZERs damaged.

Email me and we can exchange phone numbers if you want. It is hard walking someone thought this in posts.

Inre your clutch comment, the clutch just started acting up as this shifter assembly breakage problem developed. Yes, it did start to act up while not being used heavily.
Difficult to believe it is "related". All due respect to law enforcement types, coincidences do occur, we live in a universe where anything can and does happen (tongue in cheek
here). Even with the shifter assembly removed, just manipulating levers attached to transmission, I can no longer find any reverse. Can only find a forward gear in the lower range
(both forward speeds in that range can be found but useless for haying for example). I've changed fluid and filter, but have no idea how to access the "screen" others seem to
refer to? Thanks for your help. Rob.

thanks for this, just got a chance to read your response. My mechanic is coming to take a look, and I've printed out your explanation, he seems to have a similar idea in mind. Will keep you posted. Again, thanks.
rob.

Ok, so here is what we have found. The guide rail on the bottom of the shifter lever finally let go, so we are replacing that, and we have the new plate, so when we get that buttoned together again, the shifter assemply should be in good shape. What we did find is that the gear selector lever which goes into the side of the transmission below the range selector lever: removing the access bolt to the rear of the gear lever and viewing the half-moon plate attached to the shaft, the bottom detent on that half moon plate which would be "park" position, the lower portion of the plate right thru the middle of that detent has cracked off. So, that is at least partially the reason for park no longer being where it "should" be, i.e. shifter lever all the way forward and to the left. I knew that the drum for the gear selector was not sitting where it should be for the tractor to really be in park.

Now the trick is to try and jury rig around this. Maybe an extra stiff spring or some sort of spacer to push the spring plunger harder against the detent plate? Of course, this is after we get the shifter assembly back together and bolted on, which should not pose problems. Any suggestions? Stay tuned. And thanks to everyone for all of the input.

P.S. My mechanic was able to find reverse just manipulating shifter rods to the transmission, so I am hoping all is still good there. He was a bit surprised in that we could find no external adjustment for clutch.

The JD 4030 would have the perma clutch. I does not have an external clutch adjustment. It is a self adjusting oil bath clutch. I had forgotten that myself when I was posting earlier. He should check the pressures at the clutch valve.

From what your finding I would plan on going into the transmission deeper when time is available. Sounds like the internal shifter components need check out.