saftey switch on 2510

730virgil

Well-known Member
I bought kit to replace safety switch for one of my 2510s that seems to be reason tractor always won't start. The pictures that came with kit are terrible does anyone have a shop manual with good pictures so I know what I am looking at.
 
No shop manual here, just parts catalog.

Most often the real problem is not with the switch as they seem to be indestructible. The problem I have with them is the connector to it grows weak after 40 years or so and the connection can't conduct enough current to close the starter solenoid with authority.
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Item 10 is the weak point, it needs to be removed from item 6 and an automotive pick used in the location of the pink line I added to show where the brass flap fails to push upon the twin top caps of the switch terminals. A small brad might be used as well. Both side grips of both item 10 must go under the top hat flanges of the switch when the assembled connector is attached to the switch, often one terminal or the other isn't in agreement with this idea, but with some moderate attempts it will finally mount the switch properly. A divot in the weak flap will engage the switch terminals and hold it connected to some slight extent when all is good. If it simply pulls away then all four side grips were missed, so try again.

On the bottom of item 10 is a tang that holds the terminal inside of item 6. An inch long sliver of roof flashing beat down flat and cut 1/8 inch wide goes into item 6 on the other side away from the two slots that accommodate the top hat connectors of the switch. If you push the wire into the connector and at the same time push the roof flashing into the connector as well, the tang will be released and one can just pull the wire and item 10 free from item 6. They will both need bending at the pink line and the tang on the side we can't see of item 10 will also need re-sprung such that it will hold item 10 firmly inside item 6 when you simply push it back in there far enough.

Doing only the above is all I've ever needed to do.

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Syncro-Range has one switch (Item 12 above), I'm assuming under the shift control panel in the cab?

Power Shift has two, one for the clutch pedal (Item 22) and another one on the side of the transmission (Item 20) under cover Item 19. Item 19 will be bolted down and must be removed to expose the switch and connector. This last one would be tracked down by the wiring loom in that general area.


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Shift linkage & ball in end of switch can wear enough so switch contacts won't have continuity. One can slide shifter arm(key 20) in on shaft(key 17) &/or unscrew switch remove a sealing washer or 2 then reinstall old switch to lessen distance between shifter & switch ball.
 

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