H Brake Repair

ratnester · May 25, 2019

My H has zero brakes. I got some advice last fall on how to do this job and just now getting around to it this morning. I have some questions.

1. The book says to pull the drum cover using bolts with square nuts and a bar. I do not have any square nuts and couldn't find any at the local hardware store. Can I use a big two jaw puller?

2. Will the spacers and bearings come with it, or should I pull them first. I do not want to damage them.

3. I feel no nicks in the seal. How do I tell if I need to replace it or not?

4. How/where do I check for this 1/32" end play?

The book did not mention draining the gear oil first and it didn't even cross my mind. I had quite a mess on my hands when it came apart! I am trying to learn as I go and this forum is a great help. Thanks to everyone, it's greatly appreciated.

Mike M · May 25, 2019

# 1 large 2 jaw gear puller works fine. I have one that hooks nicely into the 2 holes.
# 2 IIRC the spacer and bearings come off with the drum. But if you can get them off separately that may be best ?
# 3 the seals NEED replace because that is why the brakes don't work. oil got on them.
# 4 the differential is the have 1/32" side play and adjusted by shim washers. This has to be checked with the rear cover off and axles all back in.
I think your gear oil is overfull if it came out the axle holes.
You also have a preload adjustment IIRC with the top axle housing bolt in place and you tighten the outer axle bearing housing you are to be able to get a .007" feeler gauge in between the axle housing and the main case at the bottom. The book should illustrate this.
Gear oil level check plug is a small pipe plug on the left side of the main housing IIRC near the side cover for the transmission shaft.

Mike(NEOhio) · May 25, 2019

DON'T take both axles off at the same time. Or the differential falls in the case and you have to take the rear cover off to get it back on. You shouldn't have to drain it. The oil level is well below the inner axle bearings, the axle housing should be dry. You could be overfilled or have water in the case. That was common because the leather boot on the shifter did not last long if they're left outside. When you put the axle back on tighten only the top bolt and check with a feeler for .005 at the flange front and rear at axle level or .010 at the bottom. You need a .005 preload.

ratnester · May 25, 2019

When you put the axle back on tighten only the top bolt and check with a feeler for .005 at the flange front and rear at axle level or .010 at the bottom. You need a .005 preload.

Thank both of you guys for the advice.

So, when putting it back on, I only tighten the top bolt completely tight, then put a .010 feeler gauge in the bottom before tightening up the other bolts? I am not really following this. Am I understanding this right?

Mike M · May 26, 2019

I would say snug when checking and not tight, tight as that may crack something ?

dan_41jdh · May 26, 2019

Nice responses from Mike and Mike. But one thing to clarify I ve never seen a John Deere document stating the "H" axle bearings should be "preloaded". (The I&T aftermarket manual does, though.) Personally, I would prefer to adjust the bearings per actual Deere specifications as per the info below. This is from Field Service Bulletin 97-S and is essentially the same as stated in the three Instructions and Parts Lists which actually contained decent service info. (Dir. 214, 248, and 276).
By following those instructions you will end up with between 0.000" loose to 0.005" loose. The instructions state you should ADD the 0.005" shims (which makes a looser bearing adjustment) until the bottom of the axle housing doesn t pull away from the case. This means the tightest result would be 0.000", and the loosest would be very slightly less than 0.005" loose. And the only time the feeler gauge thing is mentioned in any John Deere publication is shown in the FSB info which indicates it can be used as a rough guide to determine how many shims might be necessary not as a means of performing final adjustment.

Zeke67 · May 26, 2019

You can also get the drum off by dropping the axle and housing on a wooden block. Start by making sure the brakes are backed all the way off. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the dust excluder and outer bearing spacer in the housing. Stand the axle up on a piece of wood with the drum nearest the floor. Lift the axle a few inches and drop it. You may need to do it a couple times. The shock from impact will slide the drum, bearing, and spacer off the axle.

Mike(NEOhio) · May 26, 2019

Thanks for that page, Dan.

ratnester · May 26, 2019

Thanks all for the responses. I too have the I&T manual but it's not much help for a beginner like myself.

I am still curious why this needs to be done? If I tighten the top bolt down then the others wirh .005 at the front in back (or .010 on the bottom), won't they just work loose?

I have searched the net looking for a video and have come up empty handed. It's so much easier to understand by watching than reading something intended for a "service man". I just want to make sure I do this right the first time. I will need to do the other side next.

Mike M · May 26, 2019

The original owners manual list a procedure with a feeler gauge used. I'd have to reread it carefully to see if it wants preload or no play or a little play ? This owners manual is the only place I have seen mention of the side play of the diff. to be adjusted by washers too.

dan_41jdh · May 26, 2019

What the process is doing is adjusting the proper clearance for the taper roller wheel bearings. Again, the goal is to achieve very slightly loose bearings, up to 0.005" axial clearance.

This sketch shows what s going on. By adding shims, the axle and bearings are pushed into the tractor, and if only the top bolt of the axle housing is attached, the entire axle assembly tends to "hinge" upward about that bolt, and a gap is created at the bottom. This means shims must be removed until the axle assembly doesn t "hinge" upward.

dan_41jdh · May 26, 2019

Mike, the original owners manuals show exactly the same procedure with almost the same, exact wording as the Field Service Bulletin. And notice that the reference to using feeler gauges is ONLY in case the original shims are damaged (or lost) and you need a method to determine how much shim thickness is required. After that, the instructions tell you to "recheck as previously instructed in paragraph 4". The adjustment procedure DOES NOT require feeler gauges, but simply to add shims until the axle housing flange doesn't pull away from the case.

ratnester · May 28, 2019

Thank you again Dan for taking the time to explain this to me. Hopefully it won't be too bad of a job and a good learning experience.

H Brake Repair

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