60 alternator conversion

Hello,
Gonna convert my 60 2 banger to alternator, gm style 1 wire.
Please tell me if the following is correct.
1. I think I need to then make my system neg to ground/frame.
2. Then I need to swap my amp meter leads to read correctly.
3. I need a diode and capacitor in line/series from alt back to amp meter.
4. I need to put the lead from ignition switch to pos side of coil ?
5. I then take neg side of coil to my distributor?
Please let me know if I have this messed up.
Thanks in advance
 
You said 1 Wire Alternator and I take you at your word, so next, you ask:

1. I think I need to then make my system neg to ground/frame. Most alternators are Neg ground so if yours is ???? the answer is YES

2. Then I need to swap my amp meter leads to read correctly. Correct if you change to Neg ground swap leads

3. I need a diode and capacitor in line/series from alt back to amp meter. WHAT ??? You said 1 WIRE Alternator right??? If so, they, unlike a three wire, DO NOT utilize initial external supplied excitation, and even if so, that goes in the small 1R side terminal on three wire Alternators like the 10SI and 12SI family, NOT USED ON A 1 WIRE. The alternators big main output stud wires to the Load (NOT battery) side of the Ammeter, there's no capacitor used there.

4. I need to put the lead from ignition switch to pos side of coil ? YES for Neg ground the coils + receives voltage from ignition switch while its other - lead wires to distributor

5. I then take neg side of coil to my distributor? YES as above.

NOTE since you stated 1 wire and didn't ask, I'm NOT going into how to convert three wire units in which case you provide initial excitation to the small side 1R terminal and in that circuit you can use a diode or a resistor or an incandescent idiot light to prevent run on when ignition is switched off

If you use a three wire post back for excitation circuit information.

John T
 
(quoted from post at 19:17:47 05/18/19) Hello,
Gonna convert my 60 2 banger to alternator, gm style 1 wire.
Please tell me if the following is correct.
1. I think I need to then make my system neg to ground/frame.
2. Then I need to swap my amp meter leads to read correctly.
3. I need a diode and capacitor in line/series from alt back to amp meter.
4. I need to put the lead from ignition switch to pos side of coil ?
5. I then take neg side of coil to my distributor?
Please let me know if I have this messed up.
Thanks in advance

Sacrilege, to install a butt ugly alternator on a two cylinder. The 20 amp Delco generator used on the late 60 and 620/630 functions superior to earlier generators .
 
(quoted from post at 04:42:16 05/19/19) Lol But $50 vs $300 + the regulator?

Yup. Or in my case when the tractor is never gonna go to a show, just has to start and run, and didn't have a generator or regulator at all when we bought it. So, one wire alternator (with a bigger pulley to make it spin faster) and away we went.
The bigger pulley is to make the alternator turn faster. Self exciting alternators have to spin to a certain speed before they start charging. Our starter/alternator/genny guy recommended a bigger pulley, so the tractor didn't have to be revved to near full throttle before the alternator started charging.
 
Well, the father in law calls them 1 wire because you have one main wire back to the battery.
Technically it is a GM 10si
It has a output stud, grand stud, and a rectangle port with points 1 & 2 , 1 is where you put the battery excitation power to it.
2 is the sensing wire for the alt
Enator.
So I suspect that I am wrong in calling it a 1 wire.
Thanks for the input.
 
Yes its what' called a THREE WIRE and needs initial external supplied excitation to get it started.

From the small side spade 1R (Excitation) you run a wire with an in line series diode (cathode towards alternator) or a 10 ohm resistor to the coils input or the ign switches IGN output where it feeds battery voltage to the coil via ign switch when ON

Run a jump wire from 2F (Sense) small side spade terminal to the big main rear output stud or up to the battery ungrounded post (a bit more accurate battery voltage sense location)

Big rear main output stud wires with at least 10 gauge wire to the Load (NOT battery) side of ammeter

You already covered coil polarity and ammeter corrections

John T
 
Of course to make it spin faster, the ALTERNATOR needs a SMALLER pulley and/or the ENGINE a BIGGER pulley. Easier to change out the alternator pulley then the one on the engine ????

John T
 
I put an alt like yours on my 70 when the gen went west X2. It charges OK if the throttle is just a little off idle. On the 70 it was close to the exhaust pipe so I put some header wrap on the exhaust since solid state do-hickeys don't like heat. Don't know if you would need it on an A. I just figured it was cheap insurance. Mine's a working girl too, so farmerizing is OK by me. I worked out a deal to operate 2 single action cylinders and a double acting one without a Baker valve. Has more valve handles that a U-boat but was cheap. It'll give whoever gets it when I'm gone something to think about.
 
Sure do miss Steve Crum. I need another
one of his masterpieces for the last M I
bought. Might have to be TSC.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]I put an alt like yours on my 70[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the illustration below of the [i:654c4848f0]farmer tech[/i:654c4848f0] diagram.

cvphoto23668.jpg


Note the exciter switch.

Take a look at the photo below of the exciter switch on "15" one of our 1953 Model 70s.

cvphoto23669.jpg


Take a look at the photo below of the exciter switch on "1011" our other 1953 Model 70.

cvphoto23672.jpg


Take a look at the photo below of the exciter switch on "Vernon" our 1956 Model 70.

cvphoto23673.jpg


Previous owners had installed alternators; guess they kept the generators for souvenirs.
 
(quoted from post at 09:53:46 05/19/19) Of course to make it spin faster, the ALTERNATOR needs a SMALLER pulley and/or the ENGINE a BIGGER pulley. Easier to change out the alternator pulley then the one on the engine ????

John T

Yeah, that's why we need the edit feature back. It sucks when you post something and realize there was something wrong, but the forum crap software no longer allows you to edit.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]It sucks when you post something and realize there was something wrong[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Especially for those of us that are always purfect.

The late Pat Browning was known to say "[i:654c4848f0]Crow is always best eaten while still warm.[/i:654c4848f0]"
 
I like an edit feature myself, its a better way to correct a mistake, but the way it is there has to be a separate post. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

John T
 
I use Classic view which gives you a Preview look at your post/reply. That's where you can read your
post/reply and make corrections and changes before you hit Submit. Does Modern view work the same way?
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:30 05/20/19) I like an edit feature myself, its a better way to correct a mistake, but the way it is there has to be a separate post. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

John T

I would love less that edit feature returned as well. I have made several errors in spelling and grammar should have been corrected
 
(quoted from post at 10:21:48 05/20/19) I use Classic view which gives you a Preview look at your post/reply. That's where you can read your
post/reply and make corrections and changes before you hit Submit. Does Modern view work the same way?

Yes it does. You just have to take the time to do it. Most of us, including myself, don't usually take that time.

You can also just proofread it after you type it and before you hit "submit". Again, we get in a hurry and often don't do that.
 

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