4010 pertronix ignition question

Is it really necessary to change out my solid core wires for new carbon core wires?

NO!

I see absolutely NO reason to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of your relatively fragile high $$$$ ignition module!

Of course, if you don't and it fails, it would seem to me to be reasonable that they would refuse to warranty it!

I have run a 4020 for years on the original wires.

On some of the high energy ignition systems spiral wound or carbon core resistive type of plug wires are used to provide some degree of ballast and suppression (for sound engineering reasons), and if that's what's recommended by the manufacturer I would use them. Sure, I'm sure someone may say I used regular wires and never had a problem, its your money and your choice......?.

John T

Which version of Pertonix? They make and sell at least three different versions. Installation differs with the various models. Standard Pertonix has no more energy then the OEM ignition and no wire change needed.

The Pertonix Ignitor II or the Ignitor III are the ones that require high-resistance plug wires. Not the standard Pertronix.

Standard Pertronix # 1163A for a 4010 is fine with copper wires.
Higher performance Pertronix II # 91163A for a 4010 does require high-resistance wires

Looks like no Pertonix III is even offered for a Deere 4010

Just FYI, its possible when using an electronic switch to still use your old stock ignition coil. The voltage necessary for current to arc jump across a spark plug gap is a "function of" the gap distance and the medium (fuel and compression) in which it fires. That means given the exact same conditions (fuel, plug gap and compression) your old stock coil may still fire at "approximately" the same voltage as any so called "High Voltage" or "Super Coil" might fire. It's that a so called "High Voltage" coil may have the CAPACITY to produce higher voltage if necessary. What some gents do when using an electronic switch is to couple it with a matching high voltage high energy coil and they might run a wider plug gap. An elec switch provides a fast positive means of switching coil current on and off with no mechanical points bounce and their other side affects. Again Id use whatever plug wires Pertronix (based on sound engineering) recommends for the system you choose. If you're gonna spend the big bucks for an elec switch, a few more dollars for a set of quality plug wires (be they wire or suppressor) is justifiable in my opinion. Your money your choice, not ours.

NOTE you indicated purchasing an elec switch and asked a question, so I purposely DID NOT get into the whole discussion of the merits or non merits of points versus elec switching

Bottom line, Id give Pertronix recommendations more weight then anything posted here, me sure included lol

John T Longgggggggggg retired n very rusty Electrical Engineer so nooooooooo warranty

Mine has been on for years so perhaps that's why I
didn't have to change wires. I don't recall that it
was required at that time. Nor did I change coils.
I was having problems with certain plugs oil fouling.
Always the same cylinders.
I have gapped the plugs at .050 since and don't have
to replace those plugs as often.

Congratulation on your performance, hey if it ain't broke don't fix it right ?? A wider plug gap increases what voltage the coil must rise to and such can be more demanding on the voltage withstand capacity (insulation) of wires and cap etc.

Best wishes

John T

It is not a matter of the age of the Pertonix setup. It is about which version. There are three, but only two for the 4010. One has no requirement for resistor wires and the other does.

Thank you all for your input. I am trying to solve a cold starting issue. Looks like I should go with the whole system.

Its possible when its real cold, the engine is harder to crank and the starter draws high current, a weak battery will drop voltage excessively (maybe from 12 down to 10 or less) and that can weaken the spark when its needed the most. An elec switch isn't gonna raise battery voltage nor increase coil current to much if any extent over a good clean fresh set of points. Other energy and voltage robbers can be too small cables or bad grounds or loose/resistive connections or a faulty starter or a faulty resistive starter solenoid. A good fully charged high capacity battery with good heavy cables and grounds can help with cold starting. If in doubt if you remove n clean n wire brush n re attach all battery and starter and solenoid cables and connections it may help. A voltmeter right on the starter to see what voltage it actually gets when cranking can help in diagnostics as well as what voltage the battery maintains when cranking.

John T

I don't know of your cold starting issue is due to ignition or not. That said, having the OEM "6 volt" coil is the way to go. System voltage drops to 9 volts when cranking and calls for the OEM "6 volt" coil for things to work right.

On my 1010 - I always had cold-starting issues and even with the correct parts - adding the Pertronix made a nice difference. Note - I used the standard Pertronix, and not a Pertronix II or III. So in theory, potential spark energy remained unchanged. OEM coil,plug wires and plug gap. Seems just the more precise switching done by the breakerless Pertonix module made the difference.

I WILL say one thing though. I ran my four-cylinder 1010 for many years with six-cylinder distributor from a 4010. Seems the 4010 distributor is one of the few that bolts right into a 1010. Somebody before me stuck it in my 1010 and put a 4 cylinder distributor cap on it. It took me years to iron out the problems I was having with a six-lobe points cam inside that distributor. Oddly, it would run on four cylinders fairly well but burn up distributor caps real fast.