new techecneque for a 4020 turbo set-up

tim s

Well-known Member
Looking at the post below,made me want to show my new design for a 4020 turbo set up,, I altered a 4430 manifold by cutting near 2 inches off the deck and setting the turbo down and away from the hood, made wedges to tilt the water manifold over to make room for the re-located turbo,, I made 3 kits that I completed this week for late 4020's,, now I'm working on one for a 3020.

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(quoted from post at 07:02:44 04/26/19) Looking at the post below,made me want to show my new design for a 4020 turbo set up,, I altered a 4430 manifold by cutting near 2 inches off the deck and setting the turbo down and away from the hood, made wedges to tilt the water manifold over to make room for the re-located turbo,, I made 3 kits that I completed this week for late 4020's,, now I'm working on one for a 3020.

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto20905.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto20906.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto20907.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto20909.jpg">

That's pretty cool. Not being familiar with these kits, how does a mechanically fuel injected engine compensate for above atmospheric manifold pressure?
 
Basically it's more fuel, more air,,more power,,no cute little failure prone sensors..same with the Hydraulics,,you actually have to move the lever to drop the plow,,I know this is old fashion stuff...but it sure does work good...and has been time tested for over 50 years...
 
(quoted from post at 07:26:03 04/26/19) Basically it's more fuel, more air,,more power,,no cute little failure prone sensors..same with the Hydraulics,,you actually have to move the lever to drop the plow,,I know this is old fashion stuff...but it sure does work good...and has been time tested for over 50 years...

Perhaps we got off on the wrong foot. I understand that the internet hides who is behind the keyboard, both good and bad. I have a good understanding of BMEP, MAF tables, STFT, LTFT, manifold BAR sensors, fuel trim tables etc.
Since there are none of those here, I assume (say on a 3020) you would just size the pump and injectors for a 100HP engine and hope for the best...assuming you're making 8 with the turbo. I assume the turbo would be a hybrid.?
 
The 3020 project is happening now,, I bought one off a friend of mine that had been setting for 15 years,1968 model,it was as Ugly as a truck load of warts,,I started at the rear end and am working my way forward,re-doing every thing as I come to it,, brakes final drive seal/bearings, load shaft trans pump synchronizers seal shifter steer valve clutch,,I am up to the engine now,, I have some good ideas on the turbo, putting pistons/liners,,the whole engine treatment,,I should have about twice what it's worth when I'm done,,but it is looking good...I will make a post of it maybe tomorrow,
 
Yes, just basic power with out electronic fuel injection,Clean and simple,, David has been working on some exotic fuel injection systems on here,,but I don't want to go that route, I know it has a lot of plus's though..
 
I did one of those about 30 years ago,,it was making 125hp, used a manifold off a 450 crawler on that one..that same tractor is still at work on a farm north of me,,those are Frisky little engines,,the balance shafts are a weak point..
 
Yes and pre-heating the manifold to 500 degrees,then burying it in a barrel of floor dry for the rest of the day.
 
Tim S.

Will your 3020 turbo setup use the original muffler hole in the hood, or will a new hole be required? I have a 1970 3020 power shift tractor that is restored and painted and I would not want to mess the hood up, but it sure could use a little more power.

Thanks!
 
It will use the original muffler hole,, I like to keep things looking original, while still improving performance. I will post pictures as I work on that project..
 
The wheels of Research and development are turning slow right now,,I am covered up with engines and transmissions right now. I just shipped the first "New" 4020 set up yesterday. The 3020 set up is still cooking. I have an even different older 4020 set up lining up right now, this one will give more room for the dual hydraulic valve clearance over the manifold.
 
Tim S, i know the feeling, easy to get buried.

i think i would be lucky and happy if you had one by winter, cause thats about how long its gonna take me to be ready to take the 500 down for deep maintenance and upgrades, like my solenoid kit lol
 
What does your 500 have on it?? a loader/back hoe..or is just a industrial tractor ..
 
Tim S,

its a 500A with loader and backhoe and "cab". When i get out by the shop in the morning ill snap a pic or two of it.

I need to put new return line boots on it, a couple other things. Its a powershift with a F/R lever, i also have a mostly complete parts hoe to go with it. It was a salvage due to fire, but there is a lot of good parts on it and i think the block is still good.

But this winter i need to redo a lot of pins, repack some cylinders, just basically spend a couple weeks on it cleaning everything up...who knows, maybe put a turbo on it HAHAH
 
I did some work on one that a neighbor bought a couple years ago, engine O/H. and rebuilt the power shift.
 
I'm thinking about offering ether way,, it will cut down on shipping for every one, or if some one can't come up with the little parts I would make them available.
 
Tim,

Would you please send me an email when it is convenient for you. You should be able to get my email address from this post.

Thanks!
Pat
 
Hello Tim, nice work!
I set a front section of a 4430 exhaust manifold and turbo on a 3020 first gen that I have apart, and I cannot see it work, because the turbo is way too far back.
Would it be better to put a 4320 front section and a smaller turbo? Or the 3020 exhaust manifold that is modified to have the turbo (the exhaust will have to move forward??

A late 3020 might be much easier to do, with much more room under the hood.
 
To make it work out you need to cut the turbo mount off the 4430 manifold, lower it down about 1 1/4" weld a new mount onto it with 5/8" plate , take a 4230 intake manifold turn it upside down,cut and cap the end toward the seat, cut the air intake neck off get the turbo to where you want it, then line up where you want the air to go in,,saw a hole into the manifold and weld the air intake neck back on, off set the water manifold make an air pipe out of exhaust pipe to head the clean air into the turbo,, the air hose that goes over the top of an older 4020 is just right to make the turn into the clean air sid of the turbo,, use a 4320 exhaust elbow...or wait till I make one up to show you,,you have to think "clear" out of the box to make it look right. I have a few pics, but they are not loaded into the computer yet..
 

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