H belt pulley removal

George by Geneva, NY · Apr 14, 2019

Well, I went into the unknown, started to remove belt pulley so as to check for plugged drain of oil back in to reduction gear case. Tractor is sn under 10,000. Took snap ring off splined shaft, moved the pulley out about an inch and it stopped. I did too, as I now realize that the fork has to be loose or removed, maybe something else to free it up. Owner manual no help. Anyone out there that can give me info on what has to be done? One thing for sure I do not want to break anything, I was hoping for a quick off, clean the drain hole and put it back together.

George by Geneva, NY · Apr 15, 2019

Just got a look at the parts diagram on the computer and enlarged it. Looks like nut,#54, gets the fork shaft out and the fork out of the way. Then is anything still holding the pulley on???

Mike(NEOhio) · Apr 15, 2019

Long time since I tore mine apart but it should just slide off after you remove the drive disk and fork. What snap ring are you talking about? Take off the block that holds the clutch lever pin and remove the fork from the front after you pull up the fork shaft. Don't lose the spring and thrust washers under the shaft. The fork arms have an offset to one side. Mark it for reassembly.

fpappal · Apr 15, 2019

I restored my 1941 a few years back and found a couple pics that might help you. I do not recall a snap ring,from what I remember it just slid off the splined shaft.

D- · Apr 15, 2019

You have to remove all the clutch.
The hub is on tapered splines and has to be pulled.

dan_41jdh · Apr 15, 2019

George, you're on the right track. Your early "H" doesn't have items 2, 3 & 4, but does have items 10, 11, and 12. You apparently pried out that ornery snap ring #11. And your early "H" camshaft and clutch disc have straight splines and the snap ring holds the clutch onto the camshaft, whereas the later (more robust) tractors had tapered splines in that area, thus requiring a puller to remove the clutch disc. You've got the hard part done, but the #60 fork is still holding the pulley in place. So in sequence, from the rest of the diagram not shown, remove nut 52, then lever 53 (warning- tapered splines between lever 53 and shaft 56), then bearing nut 54, then you can pull out shaft 56 and misc parts (spring, etc.) and finally, fork 60 is free. As Mike mentioned, mark the relationship between 53, 56, and 60 because it'll make reassembly a lot easier than having to do trial and error checks during reassembly.

H belt pulley removal

George by Geneva, NY

Member

George by Geneva, NY

Member

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member

fpappal

Member

D-

Well-known Member

dan_41jdh

Member

Similar threads