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model 70 pulley brake question

C

Carls70

Member
Hello all,

I noticed the other day that the pulley brake lining was missing on the 70. Could have swore it was there last time was run. I've seen in the parts book there is a lining that's riveted on to the brake arm and there's also one that appears to clip onto the brake arm.

If you were going to replace a missing one which would you use?

Thanks for your time!

Carl
 

I should also note, the clutch likes to hang up a little bit after I release it. Occasionally I have to step on the brakes lightly to get it to let go. I have a feeling the missing brake lining and the sticking clutch are very much related. I am planning on opening that can of worms next week and starting with release springs. Any words of wisdom for a guy that's never had a two cylinder clutch apart?

Thanks! Carl
 

Thanks Pete. I'm afraid if the correct police got a hold of me I would be sent straight to the Gallows.
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:30 04/09/19)
I should also note, the clutch likes to hang up a little bit after I release it. Occasionally I have to step on the brakes lightly to get it to let go. I have a feeling the missing brake lining and the sticking clutch are very much related. I am planning on opening that can of worms next week and starting with release springs. Any words of wisdom for a guy that's never had a two cylinder clutch apart?

Thanks! Carl
Click to expand...

With the pulley brake pad missing, the clutch mechanism can "overtravel", making the clutch act like it's not released.
 
Start with a new clip-on pad, then try to adjust it.

What Bob said is right. The pad is important.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]I'm afraid if the correct police got a hold of me[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

As long as your tractor has a PTO guard, even if you don't use PTO driven implements, then there should be minimum harassment.
 
I tend to not use either ! I use a thicker lining and JB Weld it to the arm. Arm has to be super clean as in sandblasted to get it to stick though. I take the arm off the tractor and to hold the lining in position to cure I c clamp it onto the outer rim of the belt pulley. I guess I just have seen too many tractors with the pulley all grooved up from rivets ?
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:23 04/09/19) "[b:ff3b827e61][i:ff3b827e61]I'm afraid if the correct police got a hold of me[/i:ff3b827e61][/b:ff3b827e61]"

As long as your tractor has a PTO guard, even if you don't use PTO driven implements, then there should be minimum harassment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reassurance James! It does have the shield & flipper in place. There is a PTO Hydraulic pump blocking access to it as well.
 
Thanks for the input Bob, PJH & Mike!
I ordered the clip on (easy route) one today and a set of the release springs. The pulley is grooved (some from a P.O. and some from last snow day)
I will attempt to get some pictures when I get into it.

Carl
 
(reply to post at 12:44:40 04/09/19)
Click to expand...
In the'70s dealers had a box of pulley brakes sitting on the
counter. Price was $.69 or thereabouts. Even made of asbestos.
Think they are vegetable fiber now.
Jim.
 
Carl,
Be aware that after you replace the pulley brake pad and adjust per OP manual you may still have problems. The operating pin could be worn and will
cause the clutch to re-engage when the lever is pulled back to stop pulley rotation. Have had to address this problem on my 1956 70D.
 
I don't like dealing with rivets so I
bought the clip-on type. They're a little
loose on the Mount, so I wedged a really
thick Cotter key to one of the top tabs. I
haven't had any trouble with it and I've
seen others do the same
 
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