4010 John Deere not charging

I have a John Deere 4010 that has been converted to a 12 volt system. It has an alternator which I have posted pictures but I am confused about the
wiring because there are still wires connected to the voltage regulator. Can anyone tell me how this should be wired to eliminate the old regulator or any
ideas why I am not charging

cvphoto19210.jpg
 
that's is not wired correctly. the heavy charge wire hooks to the side terminal. look up John T. alternator wiring . I don't want to do a bunch of typing. this subject has so many posts it should be easy to find.
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:34 04/07/19) that's is not wired correctly. the heavy charge wire hooks to the side terminal. look up John T. alternator wiring . I don't want to do a bunch of typing. this subject has so many posts it should be easy to find.

rustred, on the contrary, I don't see anything OBVIOUSLY wired incorrectly in this conversion. NOT sure what you think is wrong!

To the O.P.... ASSUMING the Blue and Brown wires coming out of the wiring harness near the STARTER have been both connected to the battery cable stud at the starter solenoid (as they should be for this 12 Volt conversion), the wiring at the alternator can be cleaned up as in this drawing, and the old generator voltage regulator eliminated.

Presumably, as it is now, the old regulator exists just as a "terminal strip" to keep the extra old wiring from shorting to ground.

4En8w0u.jpg
 
im basically saying that the output terminal should be a 10 guage wire. that wire is too light.
 
(quoted from post at 06:40:59 04/08/19) im basically saying that the output terminal should be a 10 guage wire. that wire is too light.

Blue and Brown wires in original generator wiring harness are only 12 or maybe even 14 GA, the 25 Volt generator didn't put out a whole lot of Amps.

When they are joined together and both connected as shown in the diagram I posted they are more than adequate for a typical 10SI alternator in normal use of this older tractor, typically without a cab and the extra power needs that go with it (fans, maybe more lights).

Even as shown, for a typical simple, basic old tractor (although certainly not good practice) using ONE of the original wires will likely work OK.
 

As to not charging, (after you get the wiring "cleaned up" a bit), is the dashboard warning light still in the circuit as shown in the diagram I posted?

If so, if the lamp burns out, the alternator will NOT excite and charge, probably the first thing to check.

Checking with a meter, obviously there needs to be battery voltage on the large output stud, and to the #2 "sense" terminal, and at least 6 to 8 Volts (through the charge indicator lamp) to the #1 "excite" terminal with the key switch "ON".

Post back, once you did into this thing!
 
I have yet to see the charge line on any alternator having 12 or 14 guage wire since these alternators came out in about 1964. it has always been a heavy red wire. yes the 2 wire plug is like 14 guage.
 
The warning light is in the circuit and it is burned out so that was a good tip. IS there a way to wire around most of the harness and be able to charge te
batteries till I can trouble shoot all the wiring
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:57 04/09/19) The warning light is in the circuit and it is burned out so that was a good tip. IS there a way to wire around most of the harness and be able to charge te
batteries till I can trouble shoot all the wiring

Replace the warning light and see if it charges.

If NOT, (with engine running, keep your paws out of the fan and belt), momentarily jumper from the battery terminal on the starter to the #1 "excite" terminal on the alternator.

If the alternator is "good" and charge circuit wiring to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid is intact, the alternator should "excite" and charge until the engine is shut down. Post back after you replace the indicator lamp, if you need more help.
 
I converted father in law 4010 to 12 volts with Delco 3 wire alternator. Here's what I did

Remove old generator regulator leaving Blue and Brown output wires and black lamp wire

Connect blue and brown together and attach to output of alternator

Loop #2 pin on alternator to output stud with blue and brown wires

Connect black lamp wire to #1 pin on alternator

At the starter connect blue and brown wires together and connect to starter solenoid with large battery cable.

In my start switch there was a resistor in the charge light circuit. Moved red lamp wire from GEN terminal on switch to LTA or LTB
 
I changed the electrical warning light still does not light up or charge. If I am reading all the posts correctly the big post on the alternator should have
voltage which it does so one side of the warning light even without the key on should show same voltage as the post on the alternator correct. It show
no voltage so I must have a break in the wire. I run out of time but I am trying to remove all the tape that was wrapped around everything so I can see
what color of wires have been connected together. At the solenoid there is no brown wire connected I actually found a light colored wire connected at
the solenoid some where I read the blu and brown wire connect there. Biggest issue is I think wires have been spliced in and the original colors not
used. Think I will find the issue if get all the tape off. Thanks for all the help. The alternator does work I had it tested at our locaL Napa store they know
what they are doing Thanks to everyone for the help. Just wished I had more time so I could stick with the wiring more.
 
The alternator's #1 "excite" terminal should have power ONLY WHEN THE KEY SWITCH IS ON, fed through the "idiot light". If it has power all the time, the internal voltage regulator will keep the field winding in the alternator powered and run down the battery.

The alternator's #2 Voltage sense" terminal and the alternator's output stud it's connected to will have continuous power.
 

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