late model 4020 adding a FEL

TWRanchHand

New User
howdy all
I have been looking around in the old post on the topic of adding a front end loader to a 4020- but am missing something.

my 1970 doesn't seem to have a location by the breaks to source the hydraulic oil from. I have a manual shift model and have the ported filter cover ready for my return.

history- just for fun. I rescued my 4020 from a old TX farmer- it had been sitting outside his barn for about 10 years. The day I brought it home we had to cut small pine trees out of the way and lift the old girl out with the use of another tractor.
So far I have replaced all fluids (a couple of times) filters, sump screen, paint, seat, decals, fuel pump and injectors, water pump.. fuel gauge and sender... batteries and boxes ... probably a few other things. She is running and I was able to cut and rake hay last season with her.

NOW just to be complicated I found a old 46a loader without bucket, or brackets and decided to make it work. Fabricated a bucket and bracket (quick release style) and mounting brackets for the back axle and front. It seems to fit well and with bright green paint looks like it belongs.

any help on finding the best spot to source the juice from would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 14:38:35 03/26/19) IIRC there is a power beyond block you add to the rear remotes to tap off of.

Thanks for the response
I read a little over the last week and even saw this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-POWER-BEYOND-KIT-1969-or-Later-4020-4430-4440/283423168981?epid=1121426834&hash=item41fd5659d5:g:Sa4AAOSwt6FbtRWA&frcectupt=true

for $170
I could buy this and have it for the weekend- and will do so unless any other suggestions come across first. With this kit it seems I didn't need to buy the fancy ported filter cover. Kinda a pity since I already painted it.
 

I agree that a PBY block on late model 4020 is the best way to power a FEL valve. One drawback is one must trim rockshaft cover because scv mounts further to the rear than normal.
 
I thought you could source the fluid from t-ing off the main hydraulic supply line underneath the break pedals on the right side of the tractor? And then use the ported filter cover for your return or even t-ing into the rockshaft return line behind the filter. Think you use fitting AN140263.

Is there a benefit to using a power beyond spacer on the scv's instead of t-ing off those supply/return lines like I mentioned? We got a '66 syncro shift that I would eventually like to do this change to so that the SCV's aren't always being used.
 

4020's before & after serial # 201,000 don't have the same type hyd lines supplying rockshaft & scv's so must be plumbed differently for auxiliary hyd valves.
 

I learned this myself this week- that said I will likely have a ported filter cover with fresh green paint available to sell shortly... for pre 69 non side console 4020 owners.

I did order the power beyond kit but the expected delivery date is next monday- so another week of waiting to finish this fun little project up.

I will post some before/after pics as soon as I have after pictures..
thanks everyone for the help.
 

IIRC the left side of rockshaft housing where scv & PBY mount has an oil galley that is connected to the return oil circuit for routing oil back into hyd pump supply circuit similar to ported filter cover returning oil.
 
I recently had a 1972 3020 here and on that tractor they welded a nipple onto the hyd line that is under the deck plate and then added another nipple to the hyd filter cover. Tom
 
coming back to this old post. its been a while because I have been busy using it.
I built the bucket and installed the brackets for a 48 A JD loader if i remember correctly. I then bought a Control valve that was 10 GPM and had a closed center plug.
plumbed it through the Power Beyond that I bought
it all worked!

however, the control valve will get so hot you can burn yourself on it. I think this also causes heat through the entire system.

My question, should I replace this valve with a different one that allows more GPM? or am I mistaken and the heat is coming from some other place in the system and I just noticed it after attaching the valve because I touch it often? This came to a head for me this weekend when I discovered that the 4020 PTO was super hot after a hour of use with a hay cutter.

any thoughts? It could be Power Beyond is causing heat? or uh?

I can add a picture of the 4020 with the loader and bucket just for fun. I can also take pictures of the power beyond and plumbing if anyone is interested.
 

Since closed center hyd flow was designed to stop at the control valve until a control lever is moved my guess is inner seal on closed center conversion plug has blown not holding pressure.

Simple test disconnect FEL control valve return hose from tractor then cap orifice on tractor. With FEL control levers in neutral start tractor engine & no oil should exit open FEL valve return hose.
 
Hey buickanddeere
I feel like a Dumb Bunny- not sure I know how to answer the question? I have down pressure on the loader. Power Beyond has one hose to the loader control joystick- and joystick has one hose back to power beyond. the Power beyond is mounted (sandwiched) in front of the rear righthand remote ports. I was using those ports recently with a round baler attached and also noticed blistering hot temp on the PTO shaft and loader control. (I expect the rear remote cuppers would be very hot to the touch also)

sorry for the poor answer- but thanks for the quick response
 
Howdy Tx Jim
I can try this test and let you know later today.

I have noticed that my loader will rise slowly, maybe an inch every couple of min as I drive around the field. When I have a round baler attached the rear gate will also try to rise - so I have to keep an eye on that when baling or I will have a mess.

Thanks for the reply and idea.
 
Sounds like an open center valve that was converted to closed center with a plug, so it likely has a main relief valve built into it.
Did you adjusted the main relief valve fully closed so it won't relieve in the closed system, the tractor's valve needs to clontrol the system relief pressure. It could be opening most of the time as closed center pressure is often higher than open center, that could cause heating. Just a thought not knowing your valve and how it is ported.
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:57 03/27/19) I thought you could source the fluid from t-ing off the main hydraulic supply line underneath the break pedals on the right side of the tractor? And then use the ported filter cover for your return or even t-ing into the rockshaft return line behind the filter. Think you use fitting AN140263.

Is there a benefit to using a power beyond spacer on the scv's instead of t-ing off those supply/return lines like I mentioned? We got a '66 syncro shift that I would eventually like to do this change to so that the SCV's aren't always being used.



You have to tee on the hydraulic line feeding the rockshaft.
Remove the plateform, take steel line off, and replace with an inverted tee and a shorter rubber hose, or cut steel line and weld a tee hydraulic fitting.
That last method is the cheapest and nicest.
Deere used it on the 500c backhoes.

The power Beyond block does not make sense on a 4020.

The pbb was introduced for 30 series and up tractors that had the priority valve at the rockshaft inlet elbow, and no extra port to take hydraulic power. Quite the mistake IMHO, as it would have been dirt cheap to add two extra plugs on the rockshaft.

4630 and up dont require the pbb.

Also, the pbb will not allow reinstallation without butchering of the left hand rockshaft cover.

This post was edited by fdt860 on 07/01/2021 at 02:17 pm.
 

fdt860
JD engineers & I disagree with your statement that PBY block won't fit & operate correctly on 4020's. It will fit late model 4020s & 3020's. PBY block is shown in late model 4020 parts catalog
Several yrs ago I sold my neighbor a '70 model 4020 that has a PBY block powering a FEL

mvphoto77753.png
 
Hey TX Jim-
I am attaching pictures of my PB Block installed
when looking at it i found 2 plugs one on the RT and one on the Lft side that were not even finger tight- so I wrenched them.

I have cleaned my hydraulic oil cooler fins (no real grime was found)

I checked the relief on the FEL joystick and it was closed - tight.
I have not checked the closed center for leak yet (i need to get a plug to perform this 'Simple test disconnect FEL control valve return hose from tractor then cap orifice on tractor.' )

mvphoto78074.jpg


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mvphoto78076.jpg
 

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