Syncro range linkage adjustment procedure

68 3020. Will make it short, appreciate any help.

I rebuilt the upper shift mechanism and it was much better but would still grind reverse when going in, the transmission shift arm holes were egg shaped so I bought new ones, put the new ones on yesterday and it wouldn't start. Did some troubleshooting, wasn't getting 12V to the starter solenoid, chased down the reason for that to the neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission. I can jump that switch out and she starts fine, no more grinding in reverse, problem now is that it sticks in first until I shut the engine off, then I can pull it out of first gear.

Is there a procedure to adjust this linkage? I'm think I need to place the transmission arms in the "Park" position but then I can't get to one of the upper collars to be able to make the correct length adjustment.
 
Can you pull out of other gears? Does it
bother when warmed up? Sounds like slight
clutch drag. First gear would be hardest
to pull out due to more reduction.
Something to think about. You adjust rod
length so tiny bit of play in handle when
in gear on both sides of gate. 1-3 or 2-5.
 
One more part I would recommend replacing is the shifter detents. Right behind the shifter arms you replaced are two plugs sticking out. Behind each of these is a pointer and a spring. The pointers get wore as well as the cams they engage. Starting during 30 series production the replaced the pointer with a ball and retainer. It helps a lot with worn trans parts. You might need different springs. Most all Deere dealers will know what parts you want. There is a procedure for adjusting the linkage that is found in the tech manual. Tom
 
It sounds like you have clutch drag, and that will wipe out your synchronizer,, as for the safety switch you will need to get the end play out of the top shaft, loosen the shift arm a bit, and while pulling out on the shifter arm tap the arm with a hammer,, this will draw the shaft out and let it make contact with the safety switch on the inside.
 
Per the manual: Follow exactly this procedure and things will be fine. Speed change is what people call the range, and range in the manual is the 1-3-R

mvphoto33455.png
 
(quoted from post at 09:35:03 03/25/19) Per the manual: Follow exactly this procedure and things will be fine. Speed change is what people call the range, and range in the manual is the 1-3-R

mvphoto33455.png

Thanks...the 6th "speed position" in the 1-3-r quadrant would be which gear?
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:41 03/25/19) In the one position

Haven't done this before so please excuse my ignorance of the procedure...but if I place both transmission shift arms in the upmost position there is not enough adjustment in the upper yokes to make that mate up...I also don't seem to have the detents previously mentioned...will post a pic later.
 
The thing to think about is they won't be far off,, shift into say 5th gear and see how well it matches up to the shift stall,,if it needs to go one way or the other make the adjustment,,then try the other speeds till you like the way it all fits to the stall or spot in the shift quadrant.
 
Just got through adjusting the linkage on a 5020
and it made a whole world of difference . It would
grind and pop out of gear I adjusted the linkage per
the manual and it?s like a new tractor again
cvphoto17872.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:15:36 03/25/19) Just got through adjusting the linkage on a 5020
and it made a whole world of difference . It would
grind and pop out of gear I adjusted the linkage per
the manual and it?s like a new tractor again
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto17872.jpg">

This picture seems to indicate the adjustment is made in 6th gear?
 
It really don't matter which gear you are in, when it lines up in one it is reflected in the others..
 
When you place it in 6th gear and push up at same time to adjust the 1-3-R, it makes a difference, particularly on 5020s, because they have a sloppier linkage than the other.
 
The reason for that is the way the weight of the linkage comes onto it all, and this is where a bit of play in the latch comes into the issue,,and why on most sycro's when you drop it into 8th gear you need to lift up on the lever just a bit to let it go into gear. That is why Deere added a long spring to the linkage in the 40's,,and why they put a counter weight on the 8640's lever.
 
You really need the manual to do it right and
understand what your doing I will try to take pictures
and post or if you want I can email them to you .
The picture I posted below just shows where each
of the stations are in the shift pattern
 
(quoted from post at 11:53:41 03/26/19) You really need the manual to do it right and
understand what your doing I will try to take pictures
and post or if you want I can email them to you .
The picture I posted below just shows where each
of the stations are in the shift pattern

I appreciate everyones help on it. I bought a "shop manual" from this site thinking it would be what I needed to get her back into shape, guess what I really needed was a "service manual" as the shop manual I got from here is sorely lacking in this area.
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:45 03/26/19) The reason for that is the way the weight of the linkage comes onto it all, and this is where a bit of play in the latch comes into the issue,,and why on most sycro's when you drop it into 8th gear you need to lift up on the lever just a bit to let it go into gear. That is why Deere added a long spring to the linkage in the 40's,,and why they put a counter weight on the 8640's lever.

I've got the opposite problem as I have to slam down on mine to get it into 8th. Everything was fine (except it would grind going into reverse) prior to the installation of the new transmission shift arms, which I did following the rebuild of the upper shift mechanism.

My old transmission arms were egg shaped where the rods go in, but good Lord it is crazy the affect removing an 8th inch of play between the rod and arm has.
 

Could someone point me toward the correct "service manual" to buy as there seems to be a good deal of reproduction junk manuals out there which infer they are for repair purposes but contain little useful info once you get into actual repairs and need specs etc.
 
First place the lever in the position I marked with the
red line which is midway between 6 and 8 on the
shift decal (provided you have the decal and it was
put on right ) you can feel when the lever is between
the two gears next pull the pin out the speed
change quadrant the one I circled in red next take a
pair of vice grips and make sure to pull the rod up
as far as it will go then thread the clevis on or off
until the pin just fits through the whole In the
quadrant easily that?s the adjustment for that . Next
place the shift lever in any of the reverse positions
and pull the pin out of the speed range quadrant
pull the shifter rod up fand thread the clevis on or off
so the pin will fit through
cvphoto17992.jpg


cvphoto17993.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 18:40:09 03/27/19) Did that make sense or not make any sense at all ?

I got her fixed up yesterday, turned out to be clutch drag and clevis adjustment. After adjusting the clutch and setting the rods as per the above pics from the manual everything is fine. 8 & 6 are not ideal but I'll truthfully never use those gears. If I set them to get a good 6/8 shift then it grinds going into reverse. I'll use reverse a lot but this tractor will never be on the highway.

Appreciate all of the help and info. I did order the service manual above as well.
 

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