JD 3010 gas - missiing bad ...any ideas?

Got a good 3010-whats been done:
Checked TDC - firing order is on - timing is good
New - points - coil - cap - rotor - plug wires
Lots of fuel supply from tank - pump - through filter to carb
Carb has been removed disassembles - soaked - new kit
air breather is unhooked - so not a air supply issue
good compression

It will start and chug along at about an idle.
Give it any throttle and it wants to die.
It will idle for a bit and then acts like its running out of fuel.
Give it throttle and it will occasionally backfire - through the muffler - just doesn't make sense.

This is a nice clean painted tractor.
You know what I mean- not a dirty old nasty one.
These symptoms have come on slowly over time- and just seem to get worse!

Glad to hear your thoughts.
Thanks
 
What points are you using? Recheck for proper points gap? Did you clean the invisible film from the points when installed?
 
Which carb do you have a cast metal Zenith ot a white metal Marvel? The Marvels are junk as few people can get them to run right. If a Zenith it needs to go to a qualified shop for a rebuild. I just got one back from Mark's Carb in MN for a 3020 and it runs and accelerates great. Soaking and installing a kit is just not enough to get them right. Tom
 

the condensor sounds like a possibility.
Maybe I should try a new one.

Also, a man at a service shop told me they had one that had a key switch, or combination key switch and harness issue that was not allowing proper current to ignition. It had some voltage but was losing along the way.

I may investigate this further. Use my voltage tester at the supply to coil and see what it is. And if it changes at all.
I guess I could also do a continuity test from the coil back to the switch....

I am looking for a Electrical diagram for this harness and then I may test a few more things and see what I find.

Thanks to all the posts on ideas.
 

Just have to ask about the film on the points.
I did not put the points in, so I have limited info.
Is this simply the plastic the points come in?....

Or is there something more I should know?...

Any experience that this should come up as a problem?
Thanks
 

What is this accelerator valve?
Where is it located?
What does it do?
To my knowledge, it has not been changed.
I will do some research on this.
I did order a service manual, so waiting for it to arrive.
Thanks for your post ...
 
Air intake gaskets leaking or are there any holes in the intake manifold allowing it to suck air so the fuel to air ratio is not correct?
 
Are you sure you have the right coil, 6 volt ? I know you have a 12 v system but they used a 6 volt coil with a resister . If you have a 12 volt coil and a resister they will act up . Just a thought . You can rewire the ign. switch to the 12 volt coil and eliminate the resister , It is on the key switch. Also some of the condensers were junk when new .
 
thanks
The coil being wrong is a potential.
Owner purchased and installed it.

Im doing some testing on it tomorrow.
Thanks for your thoughts.
 

UPDATE----

Did numerous testing with this good Service Manual. The original key switch with the resistor didnt look to good. Had a big black burn spot on it, and 2 pulgs around it were melted some from heat. So I put on a new one.
It did run near perfect for a minute or so, then started missing and running really stupid like before.

All my testing on the ignition system seemed in parameters outlined in the manual: here is what I tested:

Cranking - Battery to coil IN - 1volt max
points open - distributor ground to coil IN - Battery voltage
points closed - dist gr to coil IN -5-7 V ( low 4-4.2)
P closed - dist gr to Coil Outgoing - .2v Max
P closed - Battery + to Key Resistor IN - .7 V Max (low .2)

I did go to NAPA and bought a good set of new points and put them in - just because someone told me they had several bad set new in the box.

Made no difference.

Still wondering if its the carb accelerator pump or the valve under it that is plugged or something.???

ANy thoughts?

After these tests I really dont see other options than carburator.
???

I know 2 of those tests were not perfect, but I assume they are close enough to call them good. Anyone feel different?...
 
I have a 2010 gasser. I have had trouble over the years with debris (bug parts, seeds, etc.) getting into the petcock of the gas tank. Not enough to shut off the fuel supply, but enough to "chock" it down and retard running at full speed or accelerating. I carry a piece of rubber tubing in my toolbox to use when it happen in the field. I disconnect the solid line below the petcock to the fuel strainer bowl, attached the rubber hose to the petcock, and blow into the hose as I open the petcock (don't inhale, and close the petcock before you finish blowing bubbles in the tank). It's gotten me out of the field more than once so I can clean the tank in the shop.
 
I'd drain the tank and remove that petcock and install a screen in the inlet or a new fitting with a screen built into it. Get one that sticks up in an inch or more to act like a standpipe.
 

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