3020 resto progress and remote hydraulic coupler question

Hi. Thought I would show a couple pics of the progress I've made in restoring the 68 3020 which was my Dads when he passed. I've kinda made my way to the rear of the tractor now and am working on the fenders and lighting. Below are some pics. My question is regarding the hydraulic couplers. I don't have anything at present with is driven off of hydraulics but want to get them working. When I got the tractor these did not have covers on them and we caked full of dust from the field. I got them all cleaned out and the balls will spin with my fingers but I can not get either the covers I bought or the adapters to go into either coupler. It is possible that I just don't know how to operate them. The valves do work on them but I am unsure of the purpose of the piece of metal on the bottom of the coupler housing, in the front center. How do you get these to function?
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The coupler "barrels" or pushed forwards in the housing, reach around to the front of the casting the two barrels are in and you can feel the front of the barrels.

If not rusted/stuck they can be pushed rearward, allowing the balls to move outward and accept the plug, you then shove the plug and barrel forwards to lock the plug in place.

If the barrels are stuck, the unit will need to come off and be disassembled and freed up, and new seals installed.

You can apply "loosen juice" and tap gently with a brass hammer to try to move them rearward, if you get rough/use a steel hammer you will "mushroom" the front ends of the barrels making correct repairs even more difficult.

Also, if you are asking about the levers underneath, in normal use, once a coupler tip is interested and shoved forwards to lock it the levers are flipped sideways to depress the checkballs in the coupler and tip and allow oil to flow.
 
I forgot to mention, if you are ever going to use the couplers for their intended purpose, the RH barrel will need to be replaced, as it has a chunk broken out near one of the balls, which will eventually let the coupler tip pop out, and cause a BIG spray of oil!
 

Well how bout that. Thanks you Sir. I was unaware those plugs were supposed to slide in the housing. With your info I went out in the freezing rain and was able to move both by hand and now the plugs and adapter both fit. I included a pic of the piece under the housing which I don't know the function of.
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Now just flip those 2 levers so they are like this _ _ instead of this ||. That 'locks' the ends in.
 
(quoted from post at 11:09:21 02/11/19) I forgot to mention, if you are ever going to use the couplers for their intended purpose, the RH barrel will need to be replaced, as it has a chunk broken out near one of the balls, which will eventually let the coupler tip pop out, and cause a BIG spray of oil!

I suspected that wasn't by design and would need attention. Those valves in used condition seem pretty expensive, more money thana the conversion kits. Is it better to buy the conversion kit or are they chinese junk? If so, which kit to buy? Is there a modern standard now?
 
The stud in the center originally had a washer and snap ring on it and the dust plugs hung from it. Here is the breakaway coupler info from a 2030 Operator's Manual. Not slamming you for asking questions by any means but, I suggest you get an Operator's Manual if you don't have one. It would help you on how a things work, like these couplers, some adjustments, normal maintenance, etc..

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(quoted from post at 11:54:42 02/11/19) The stud in the center originally had a washer and snap ring on it and the dust plugs hung from it. Here is the breakaway coupler info from a 2030 Operator's Manual. Not slamming you for asking questions by any means but, I suggest you get an Operator's Manual if you don't have one. It would help you on how a things work, like these couplers, some adjustments, normal maintenance, etc..

mvphoto31258.jpg

I have one, bought it from here. On page 34 of mine it only discusses connecting hoses, it does not contain the "removing hoses" section which yours does. If mine had that section I may have been able to deduce the couplers moved. I was simply unfamiliar that the couplers moved within the housing, had I known that I would have been able to tell that the tractor arrived to me with the couplers in the position like hoses were already hooked to it. I do appreciate the help though.
 
Sorry, I wasn't trying to slam you for not having a manual, just suggesting you get one. Turns out you have one but it doesn't have all the info that some manuals have about these couplers, not your fault the writers missed it.

By the way, your tractor looks good, your Dad would be proud.
Best regards,
Jim
 
Looking good. You can take that Rabbit and Turtle decal off. You don't have that option on those couplers.
 
(quoted from post at 13:39:42 02/11/19) Looking good. You can take that Rabbit and Turtle decal off. You don't have that option on those couplers.

Yeah, as I've gotten more in depth I have discovered that I don't have that lever, so I will take it off. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 13:24:02 02/11/19) Sorry, I wasn't trying to slam you for not having a manual, just suggesting you get one. Turns out you have one but it doesn't have all the info that some manuals have about these couplers, not your fault the writers missed it.

By the way, your tractor looks good, your Dad would be proud.
Best regards,
Jim

No offense taken Sir and thank you. I have wheels to finish and have to get the sway blocks squared away in the back as there had just been channel iron welded to the drawbar housing over the years to act as sway blocks. It was missing the "useless" sheet metal pieces like rockshaft covers and the side engine shields but I found all those pieces. It has been a time consuming project for sure. It had not ran in probably 8 years as my Dads health had declined to the point where he couldn't get on and off of it...but I converted it to 12V and had her running in a couple days after changing all the fluids and filters. She runs good, a bit cold natured though.
 
Actually he does have that option it?s just under the hood instead of on the coupler kinda like the guy trying to slow down his plow cylinders if he would have just got the manual he could of slowed the plow down and been done with it instead of spending 3 days on here trying to figure out how to do it .
 
(quoted from post at 16:31:40 02/11/19) Actually he does have that option it?s just under the hood instead of on the coupler kinda like the guy trying to slow down his plow cylinders if he would have just got the manual he could of slowed the plow down and been done with it instead of spending 3 days on here trying to figure out how to do it .

I actually saw where those adjustments were located while reading the operators manual today. I went to the JD parts diagrams and was able to locate the broken piece of my coupler so I ordered it and a rebuild kit for them, hopefully that will get her all fixed up.
 
(quoted from post at 14:39:46 02/11/19)
Now just flip those 2 levers so they are like this _ _ instead of this ||. That 'locks' the ends in.

Yeah, right, if you want an oil bath. :roll:
 
John Deere has an updated latch that goes where
that bolt in the center of the coupler is and it holds
the levers from moving as easily when you have
hoses plugged in
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:46 02/11/19) John Deere has an updated latch that goes where
that bolt in the center of the coupler is and it holds
the levers from moving as easily when you have
hoses plugged in

Could I trouble you for PN info? I'm not sure that my local JD dealer would even know what a 3020 was as they primarily deal in lawn mowers and the toy tractors.
 
Part number is in the photo and then a parts
breakdown of the coupler the chains hook
underneath plate number 30
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(quoted from post at 08:40:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 19:21:53 02/11/19)
(quoted from post at 14:39:46 02/11/19)
Now just flip those 2 levers so they are like this _ _ instead of this ||. That 'locks' the ends in.

Yeah, right, if you want an oil bath. :roll:

What?

The hoses lock in when the couplers slide forward. The levers "turn" the oil on by moving the coupler valves off their sets. Hoses, not dust plugs or nothing, must be locked in before the levers are turned or you get an oil bath. Its in the page from the operator's manual I posted.
 
(quoted from post at 09:10:30 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 08:40:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 19:21:53 02/11/19)
(quoted from post at 14:39:46 02/11/19)
Now just flip those 2 levers so they are like this _ _ instead of this ||. That 'locks' the ends in.

Yeah, right, if you want an oil bath. :roll:

What?

The hoses lock in when the couplers slide forward. The levers "turn" the oil on by moving the coupler valves off their sets. Hoses, not dust plugs or nothing, must be locked in before the levers are turned or you get an oil bath. Its in the page from the operator's manual I posted.

Sorry -- I wasn't trying to imply that this should be done without the hoses pushed in. Moving the levers does seem to provide further "locking" resistance, however.
 
Tractor looks great

One thing I haven't seen mentioned about the couplers is the fact that you are able to disconnect and reconnect them under pressure if you follow the following
procedure.
First off I am not talking about the Pioneer adapter from the hose, believe me if you do that you will be sorry. I speak from experience because my neighbor borrowed
my 3010 and pull type plow, when he brought it back he disconnected the pioneer couplers instead of the John Deere couplers, luckily I had a loader on my other tractor
and could lift the plow taking the pressure off the cylinder hoses. Without that option I would have taken an oil bath, not only that but I could have received an oil
transfusion if I happened in the wrong place. Oil under pressure can pierce the skin and that AIN'T good!

NEVER DISCONNECT A PIONEER COUPLER UNDER PRESSURE!

Back to the procedure
With pressure on the remote cylinder.
1. push the levers down. This will seat the check balls.
2. Shut the tractor off and move the control lever back and forth to release the pressure internally in the tractor so that you can slide the "Barrels."
3. pull back on the hoses and remove them.
4. To reconnect them just push the hoses in (TRACTOR SHUT OFF and CONTROL LEVER CYCLED) and move the levers to unseat the balls. The tractor must be shut off because
you may have moved the control lever without knowing it and it will be impossible to insert the hoses, you cannot slide the "barrels" if they are under pressure.

These are breakaway couplers and if they ever become disconnected by breaking away because of some mishap or other, just do number 4.
 

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