45 JD A I've got problems

nashranch

Well-known Member
bought this 45 A the other day. It was a non runner. I was able then to turn it over pretty good. Been going thru it to get it running and was ok. Had it running several times for about 15-20 seconds at a time. At some point it started getting real real hard to crank over so yesterday I drained the oil and pulled the filter. A lot of water came out with the oil and I said oh cr*p. right now I can rock it over about a 1/4 of a turn and it gets impossible to turn. Also there felt like there was a lot of sludge in the crankcase so I dumped in about 1 1/2 gallons of diesel to help wash it out. Getting ready to pull off that top crankcase cover to have a looksee in there. What do you think has happened since it did crank ok at the beginning?

Any help/advice would be appreciated
 
After I found the issue I would pull the pump and do a good crankcase cleaning if it had much sludge.
 
unfortunately this is a common thing that takes place.
condensation and moisture gather over the years in the crankcase and settle in the bottom by the oil pump
then the temperature drops and the water freezes.
and then, tractors get started in the cold and it breaks the square coupling drive to the oil pump.
this coupling is designed as a weak spot and breaks to prevent major damage.
when you had the tractor running did you check the oil pressure.
after this coupling breaks and the oil drive pump quits there is no pressure to the engine including the mains.
after awhile the engine becomes dry and things tighten up. including the pistons to the cylinders and especially the rods and main bearings
making the engine tighten up and eventually seize.
hopefully there is minimal damage but flush the engine out and take the top cover off. look down inside and by the oil pump and see if it is turning. i expect not.
make sure you turn the engine over by hand. no more by electric start. the more you turn this engine over with out oil pressure the more damage you will do.
take an oil can and lubricate as much as you can as well as pull the pump and get a new coupling.
we all learn from our mistakes but this could be a costly one.
Rule number one. never turn a john deere 2 cylinder over when in freezing temperatures, unless you know exactly whats in the crankcase for oil.
it will cause damage and continue to do more damage.
 
I did pull the top cover and wash out the sludge with a 1 gallon pressure sprayer full of diesel including the pick up screen real well. I then squirted about two quarts of 30 wt oil all over the mains, rod brgs and cam. I even pulled the rocker arm cover and squirted oil there too. After a bit it freed up quite nicely and turned over real easy. I'm good to go now...

Right after dinner I will try and get it started


I do have the lines going to each main brg disconnected and I do see oild dribblinmg out when cranking so I guess I have oil pressure. The oil gage is pretty nasty and I doubt it's working but we'll see
 
She ran tonite for about twenty minutes. Ran good at higher rpm but loped real bad at idle. I wonder if thats because magneto isn't adjusted quite right. Idle screw on carb didn't seem to correct the running. Any thoughts on what could be my problem.

Oh and it had good oil pressure so i'm happy about that

Also getting a good amount of oil to the valve train
 
There is a 98% chance the carb isn't in any better condition and needs re-built..especially loping and needles make no diff. Be glad to do it if you are not.
cvphoto12013.jpg
 
She ran tonite for about twenty minutes. Ran good at higher rpm but loped real bad at idle. I wonder if thats because magneto isn't adjusted quite right. Idle screw on carb didn't seem to correct the running. Any thoughts on what could be my problem.

Oh and it had good oil pressure so i'm happy about that

Also getting a good amount of oil to the valve train
 
(quoted from post at 21:35:55 02/05/19) There is a 98% chance the carb isn't in any better condition and needs re-built..especially loping and needles make no diff. Be glad to do it if you are not.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto12013.jpg">

The carb was just taken apart RandyB and it looked good. I did spray carb cleaner thru all the jets. How many turns out should the idle adj. and the load control be ?
 
They need a lot more than that . Most are rusted full in passages,spray won't do it. Idle 1 1/2 to 2 open and load 1 open. If it needs re-built, these settings don' mean much and probably won't make much difference.
 
the single barrel carbs are not too bad to work on. I rebuilt the carb on my 49 A this fall and you can can start that tractor by hand now and believe me I am not a mechanic genius. Big thing I remember from doing the carb on my B was to team the throttle shaft bushings enough so that the governor can freely move the shaft. Also a good Needle and seat are important. Poorly made Needle will keep flooding and drive you nuts.you will be needing the hand turn drill bits available from Roberts ( a #40 and #53) I believe. Duplex carbs are a little scarier inside with those stainless steel balls in the passages but they idle really nice.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:08 02/06/19) this is what they should look like and all passages actually drilled out
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto12090.jpg">


Thanks for your input RandyB. Yesterday I took the carb apart again and removed all the drilled plugs and cleaned real good. I did not drill them cuz I don't have the drill bits yet. I had one h*ll of a time getting the big brass nozzle out the main line. It was real nasty. I think I got it cleaned out ok. Will need to order a complete comprehensive kit for this carb. But it does run better now.


RandyB...can you give me part numbers for the two drill rods and where you buy them at?


Thanks again
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:18 02/07/19)
(quoted from post at 21:14:08 02/06/19) this is what they should look like and all passages actually drilled out
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto12090.jpg">


Thanks for your input RandyB. Yesterday I took the carb apart again and removed all the drilled plugs and cleaned real good. I did not drill them cuz I don't have the drill bits yet. I had one h*ll of a time getting the big brass nozzle out the main line. It was real nasty. I think I got it cleaned out ok. Will need to order a complete comprehensive kit for this carb. But it does run better now.


RandyB...can you give me part numbers for the two drill rods and where you buy them at?


Thanks again
mvphoto31024.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:18 02/07/19)
(quoted from post at 21:14:08 02/06/19) this is what they should look like and all passages actually drilled out
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto12090.jpg">


Thanks for your input RandyB. Yesterday I took the carb apart again and removed all the drilled plugs and cleaned real good. I did not drill them cuz I don't have the drill bits yet. I had one h*ll of a time getting the big brass nozzle out the main line. It was real nasty. I think I got it cleaned out ok. Will need to order a complete comprehensive kit for this carb. But it does run better now.


RandyB...can you give me part numbers for the two drill rods and where you buy them at?


Thanks again
mvphoto31024.jpg
 
You need a # 40 and a # 53 and a # 58 all in what they call 'extended length" bits. Best place is " www.drillsandcutters.com " It's the only place I know that will sell them in what ever quantity you want and great price. Fastenal ,at least in my town, will only order them in quantities of 12 ,no less. here is a pic of the passages and bits to drill them. The white air vents , are large and you just need to stick $ 40 through them to clear out bugs etc. The other ones need drilled to size. The 58 is needed to run through bore at throttle blade area and drill out those pin ports in wall of bore for idle.
cvphoto12155.jpg
#1 is the tiny pin ports that take the 58 and have to come in from opposite side. Yours will only have two and one goes in on angle. This carb is off late "B" and has four. White is vent/air passage and red is idle fuel. #3 is the little spot most miss by not drilling in far enough. Use 53 by fingers only...no elect drill. You have to be able to see that idle needle through the drilled out hole. You can try to "hand drill " those two # 40 passages but I just use variable speed drill and spray some PB Blaster or cutting fluid in first and go slow and if it drags much, add more fluid. You do not want to break one off in there ! No way to get out.
 


Thank you RandyB for that valuable info on the dltx carb and picture. I will order a new load nozzle from MarksCarburetor and should be good to go.

Also will get those drill bits as needed
 

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