It was a nice day today, so I finished up my task to get the 62 JD 2010 converted over from LP to gas.
For anyone in the future tackling this job a couple of notes.
1. You will have to replace the manifold. The LP manifold has the same intake size but it's dropped down for the different carb. The gasoline carb will not fit on the manifold without interference with the starter. If there were a short, or small dia starter, I guess one could change starters and use the LP manifold.
2. The LP regulator is thermostatically managed by cooling passage from the water pump, back to the head. While it might be suitable to just bypass the regulator, and loop the hose from pump to head, this will allow a bypass of the radiator, and may not provide proper cooling in hot climes. Best to stub both off with a bolt and hose clamp. The fitting could be taken out of the water pump, but if it's old, one may break the fitting, or the pump. Better to leave the fittings, and block them.
3. Carb linkage will bolt right up if you get the right Marvel carb. LP has no 'choke' system, so a $9. choke cable will be added to the cab panel somewhere.
4. Don't even try to convert the LP tank to hold gasoline. There are internal baffles, and the fittings are a mess, and it's just awkward. I bought a used tank for $200, including all the fittings. Removal of the LP tank is straightforward with about 12 bolts and nuts. The gas tank will bolt right up in back with existing fittings, the front will need to make a couple of 90deg bars. I used the old steel attach bars from the LP tank reinforcement. Saw the bar off about 6" and bend 90. Already has threaded holes.
5. Use new SS exhaust bolts.
6. The discharge of the exhaust on the gas manifold is slightly rearward from the hole in the hood. I took my straight riser exhaust to a muffler shop and had a pair of 10deg kinks put in the pipe to make up the offset.
7. I set the timing by hand. Also installed a Pertronix electronic igniter. My opinion is that fuel is much different than 1960s, and the igniter changed the spark I have, and LP burns slower than gas. After warming the tractor up fully, get a load on the 3pt, any kind of load will do, I used a blade at an aggressive angle. Run the tractor up to the max RPM in 2nd gear and see how it pulls. listen for any knocking, if you hear knock, stop right away! Retard the dist 3deg and test again. If no knock, adv the dist 3 deg and try again. Once you get max power, I would then back it off 3deg for a decent idle, and so it will not overheat, and for knock protection.
8. Clean your used tank carefully. I had to start with water and soap and then move on to gas flush. The only thing I haven't done yet is the sender connection. It's pretty basic, and can run off the keyswitch hot, as it draws very little current.
Thanks about it. The other thing I didn't do is sandblast and paint my tank. It's keep ing hte same 'patina' as the rest of the old rig. I was going to get a used hood to cover the tank, but when I found the prices - decided I could survive with either an exposed tank top, or I can use a oval piece of tin and some rivets.
If anyone has an LP 2010, and wants my take-off bits, let me know, I'll make you a very good deal on all of it.
For anyone in the future tackling this job a couple of notes.
1. You will have to replace the manifold. The LP manifold has the same intake size but it's dropped down for the different carb. The gasoline carb will not fit on the manifold without interference with the starter. If there were a short, or small dia starter, I guess one could change starters and use the LP manifold.
2. The LP regulator is thermostatically managed by cooling passage from the water pump, back to the head. While it might be suitable to just bypass the regulator, and loop the hose from pump to head, this will allow a bypass of the radiator, and may not provide proper cooling in hot climes. Best to stub both off with a bolt and hose clamp. The fitting could be taken out of the water pump, but if it's old, one may break the fitting, or the pump. Better to leave the fittings, and block them.
3. Carb linkage will bolt right up if you get the right Marvel carb. LP has no 'choke' system, so a $9. choke cable will be added to the cab panel somewhere.
4. Don't even try to convert the LP tank to hold gasoline. There are internal baffles, and the fittings are a mess, and it's just awkward. I bought a used tank for $200, including all the fittings. Removal of the LP tank is straightforward with about 12 bolts and nuts. The gas tank will bolt right up in back with existing fittings, the front will need to make a couple of 90deg bars. I used the old steel attach bars from the LP tank reinforcement. Saw the bar off about 6" and bend 90. Already has threaded holes.
5. Use new SS exhaust bolts.
6. The discharge of the exhaust on the gas manifold is slightly rearward from the hole in the hood. I took my straight riser exhaust to a muffler shop and had a pair of 10deg kinks put in the pipe to make up the offset.
7. I set the timing by hand. Also installed a Pertronix electronic igniter. My opinion is that fuel is much different than 1960s, and the igniter changed the spark I have, and LP burns slower than gas. After warming the tractor up fully, get a load on the 3pt, any kind of load will do, I used a blade at an aggressive angle. Run the tractor up to the max RPM in 2nd gear and see how it pulls. listen for any knocking, if you hear knock, stop right away! Retard the dist 3deg and test again. If no knock, adv the dist 3 deg and try again. Once you get max power, I would then back it off 3deg for a decent idle, and so it will not overheat, and for knock protection.
8. Clean your used tank carefully. I had to start with water and soap and then move on to gas flush. The only thing I haven't done yet is the sender connection. It's pretty basic, and can run off the keyswitch hot, as it draws very little current.
Thanks about it. The other thing I didn't do is sandblast and paint my tank. It's keep ing hte same 'patina' as the rest of the old rig. I was going to get a used hood to cover the tank, but when I found the prices - decided I could survive with either an exposed tank top, or I can use a oval piece of tin and some rivets.
If anyone has an LP 2010, and wants my take-off bits, let me know, I'll make you a very good deal on all of it.
