1961 4010 24 volt starting problem

JimWA

Member
We have a 1961 4010 diesel. As we have posted and read on this forum it appears to have been correctly converted to the early
4020 system. We posted this problem before Christmas and determined that the starter was bad. We got a new starter and installed
it. Now we either get a click or nothing when we engage the starter.

The (+) terminal on the RH battery is connected to the terminal stud on the engine side of the starter "belly".

The (-) terminal on the LH battery is connected to the large and topmost terminal stud on the starter solenoid.

Measuring the voltage between the two studs just mentioned gives us a voltage reading of 24 Volts (nominal).

The little ground wire/fusible link is installed. We touch the black digital voltmeter lead to a nice, clean area on the
chassis, and the red lead to the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid, voltmeter reads (-) 12 Volts (nominal).

We touch the red lead to the battery cable stud on engine side of starter belly, voltmeter reads (+) 12 Volts (nominal)

What suggestions can you give us?
 
Is there a wire from the pos. starter post to the
small inner terminal of the solenoid?
 
There a wire from the pos. starter post to the small inner terminal of the solenoid and there is a wire from the small inner terminal of the solenoid to the back breaker on the starter.
Thanks for your reply and help.
 
Make SURE the tractor is in "park, and your helper is holding the clutch depressed so you don't get run over if it finally starts!

Monitor the voltage across the (+) belly bolt and (-) top solenoid stud and see if it remains at 24 Volts (nominal) while a helper attempts to start it.

If that voltage stays up and no starting "joy", check the voltage across the two small terminal studs on the solenoid while a helper attempts to crank it. Should read 24 Volts (nominal) and the solenoid should engage.

Let us know what you find!
 
Have you tried crossing the starter with a screwdriver to see if it spins sounds like a bad connection on the starter button wires down to the solenoid or the starter itself
 

Sounds as if neutral start switch plastic engagement arm(key 18) needs adjusting or neutral start switch has failed. FYI ground wire to frame on LH rear battery post to frame has no affect on engine starting. The ground wire is for correct operation of electrical accessories such as fuel gauge

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When monitoring the voltage across the (+) belly bolt and (-) top solenoid stud it went from 24 Volts to 1-2 volts(nominal) while attempting to start it.
 
Well, it needs 24 Volts (nominal) across those terminals to crank.

You have a bad battery or a bad connection somewhere in the battery cables or connections.
 
(quoted from post at 11:47:00 02/02/19) Well, it needs 24 Volts (nominal) across those terminals to crank.

You have a bad battery or a bad connection somewhere in the battery cables or connections.

JimWA, have you made any progress locating your poor connection or bad battery?

For SURE, the starter won't crank without good battery voltage across the two battery cable terminals!
 
A quick summary. The starter tested out bad and was replaced with a new one. The batteries appeared to maintain 12 + voltage. I put the jumper box on
the RH battery and it started and ran great. I took the batteries back to Deere and the RH had a dead short. They were less than a year old so I got a
replacement. Hopefully this is the end of the problems.
Thanks again for all the help.
 
(quoted from post at 08:52:29 02/06/19) A quick summary. The starter tested out bad and was replaced with a new one. The batteries appeared to maintain 12 + voltage. I put the jumper box on
the RH battery and it started and ran great. I took the batteries back to Deere and the RH had a dead short. They were less than a year old so I got a
replacement. Hopefully this is the end of the problems.
Thanks again for all the help.

AHA!

Glad you got it going and thanks for posting back!
 

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