420 crawler wont shift into gear - grinding

My 420 crawler had a problem today. Engine fires up great, been clearing brush like a champ, but the next day when i fired it up i couldnt get it into gear. It was grinding.

does anyone have a photo of the clutch adjustment bolt? I see a lot of posts talking about it but cant find photos of it any where...

would really appreciate help thank you.

. The parts are illustrated in the free online parts book on the John deere site .
No harm in purchasing the John deere operator’s and service manuals . Vital info there on setting up clutches, brakes etc .
1-800-522-7448.

As buickanddeere posted, look at the parts catalog at JD Parts Advisor on-line (PC505 - covers the wheel tractors and crawlers so look carefully at the descriptions to get the right diagrams) and compare to your crawler to figure out which arrangement you have. You will find two different adjustment arrangements were used, depending on the serial number of the crawler.

The 420 service manual is SM2019 (covers the wheel tractors as well). Only about $50 for a reprint on eBay. Get one that includes the 40 series info that is referenced in the 420 manual if you can, there are some in the reprint vendors. The store for this site has manuals as well. In any case get a JD one (new, used or reprint) to start. The operator's manual (OMT31756 or OMT42757 depending your on serial number) might help you as well. These manuals are not expensive compared to most manuals, they are definite should have items.

If it happened that quick there is a strong chance that adjusting is not going to take care of it,,clutch lining may have come loose and wedged the clutch.

I don't disagree, to me adjustment should have shown symptoms before complete failure, unless the linkage came unhooked or broke. A finger(s) could have failed on the pressure plate, there could be several possibilities.

(quoted from post at 12:49:20 01/28/19) If it happened that quick there is a strong chance that adjusting is not going to take care of it,,clutch lining may have come loose and wedged the clutch.

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Thank you all for the replies, actually, it did have some trouble getting in gear when i was out in the field. But it would always be a matter of waiting for what seemed like the flywheel to slow down and stop. Then I could get it in gear. This was an intermittent problem.

Ive also read in here that for some people the brake and clutch are frozen together. I thought this was just normal for that dozer as my this was how it always worked growing up when my father drove it when he owned it.

Im just really hoping that I dont have to have it taken apart... sounds labor intense and expensive. Its in a fairly remote location.

If I remember right the clutch pedal shaft is hollow and the brake pedal shaft goes through it. If it sticks there the clutch and brake pedals will try to move together. You push the clutch it disengages and the brakes come on or you push the foot brake and the clutch disengages. Is that happening?

For the most part when you read about the clutches being frozen on crawlers people are talking about the steering clutch discs frozen together so they don't disengage to allow the crawler to turn, entirely different from the engine clutch you push with your foot to shift gears.

When you step on your clutch pedal does it travel like it did before this happened? Does it push easier than it did before? How much pedal free play?

You may want to be thinking about a trailer and someone with a machine to drag it out and help load it so as to get it to a better location to work on. The engine has to come out to work on the engine clutch itself.

There are settings that need to be made to a clutch when installed. There is a service bulletin (a copy below) about setting the pressure plate fingers (both engine and steering clutches), it if it is not included in the manual you get. Get the manuals, they will help you, and read up on it. JMHO

The brake and clutch have been frozen together for as long as I can remember and they dont seem to be acting any different now. I would say that I did notice the clutch side, the left pedal, seemed to be dipping a little lower than before, all the way to the foot rest so maybe it needs adjusting? Doesnt feel like there is much play. My pops had the manuals, im going to dig them up. Thanks all, I really love this bulldozer, sounds like it could be a major problem.

Yes, it sounds like it could be major. If I remember right the clutch pedal should go all the way down, without the brake pedal moving. It should have about 1" free play at the top of its travel. Not having much play at the top and going all the way down doesn't sound like an adjustment will fix it. To me the grinding (not disengaging with the pedal travel you describe) indicates you likely have major internal clutch problems, the pedals need to be freed up so they move independently of each other, and when the pedals are free there are adjustments for balancing the brakes that are likely not right from being run that way. Who knows what else you will encounter along the way.

My 1951 MC that I just bought had the problem of the clutch & brake pedal stuck together. I'm amazed that Deere let that issue go to the third generation after; the fix to prevent that would be so simple - drill back into the shaft from the left end, then across, then tap the hole for a grease zerk. This would put grease between the shafts and keep them from binding.
I had to pull the engine and tranny tunnel and work several days and LOTS of PB Blaster before I got the shafts loose from each other. You can bet I'll drill the shaft for greasing it before I put it back together!

wow

sadly my crawler is in a remote location in SLO county... Im looking into hauling it out to shop and so far that's $$$$. I was up there 2 weeks ago and threw down some pb blaster but I doubt it will do much. looks like this is going to be expensive....

so when you are done putting in a zerk... it will be right on the end of that shaft? do you feel good that the shaft is strong enough to have a hole in it like that? If I get my 420 pulled apart I would like to get that done as well...

(quoted from post at 13:06:31 02/14/19) so when you are done putting in a zerk... it will be right on the end of that shaft? do you feel good that the shaft is strong enough to have a hole in it like that? If I get my 420 pulled apart I would like to get that done as well...

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Wow, I've been away for a year!!! Time flies!
It is a small hole, and I'm sure it won't affect the strength of the shaft.