2030 smoking when cold

I have a 1975 year 2030 diesel with a fairly new engine in it. It puts out a tremendous amount of white smoke when cranking and running, until it warms up, then it's fine. I've read a bunch on here and I think it is a retarded timing issue. It has a stanadyne pump model JDB435MB2805. I have the static timing marks in the window lined up. I was going to try to advance it a bit. Can anyone tell me which way to turn it to advance? I think it would clockwise while sitting on the tractor, is that correct? Also, can anyone tell me where to get a "timing window" so I can check the advance at higher RPM. They seem to be scarce, or I'm looking for the wrong number. Thanks

Push the top of the pump toward the engine to advance, pull away to retard timing. Has the compression been checked? Did the cylinder head get the valves sunk too low by grinding both valves and seats? If so there's a good chance that's your trouble, too many shops don't understand valve recession KILLS diesel compression heat because they are used to gas engines. Diesels may run OK with 300PSI compression but don't start well. With 350-400 diesels start MUCH better.

The shop that did my heads do all of John deere dealers head work in the area. He put in all new seats an all new valves. They were real bad when I took them in. I did not check compression, I don't have a way to do it. It starts fine, just lots of smoke till it warms up. Thanks for pump info, I did not have the pump rebuilt, was suposed to had been done recently.

I am going to go out on a limb here. Tim S, Dieseltech, and others are the experts but I will comment this.

Unless it is a newer tractor like my Compact JD 3320, my experience with diesel tractors is they all have a lot of smoke until they warm up. So when I read your post I thought, well isn't that normal?

Just my two cents.

Stay warm.

Paul

I also have a 1975 diesel 2030 that puts out
tremendous white smoke when cold. However, if I
plug in the block heater for an hour before
starting on a cold day, there is no white smoke.
You may want to try using a block heater. Dan

. How long is the block heater plugged in prior to starting ?

(quoted from post at 12:32:54 01/27/19) . How long is the block heater plugged in prior to starting ?

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Does your crystal ball show the temp where cjs1958 lives? How do you know temp is low enough to require an engine block heater?

It was 14 below zero here in NE Iowa this morning, way to cold to go try it. It puts out the smoke winter or summer, air temp doesent seem to matter. I also have a 2440 diesel, basicly the same engine, it smokes some when cold, what I consider normal, nothing like this 2030.
I'm going to try bumping the timing a bit. Would a bad injector cause this? Maybe leaking down when sitting? I saw some fuel around the exhaust flange by exhaust manifold when I took it apart for a new seal. I've got the hood off now, I could pull them and get them checked easily.
How about a timing window? Would US Diesel in Houston have them, I can't call today? I found one at Green JD store for $34. That seems high, but all I found on line.
Thanks for the replies. Any help is appreciated!

. Is the engine warm to the touch with the block heater prior to starting ? Have you been hitting it with ether ? Are you using the hydraulic pump de-stroker screw to reduce the starter’s load while cranking ? Had the battery grounding update been done ? Were the injectors serviced when the head was off ?

I don't use ether, I don't use destroker, I do plug it in when cold, and the block is warm, it still smokes, the previous owner said the pump and injectors were done shortly before I got it, so they weren't touched in the overhaul. It starts good, it just smokes alot. I don't know what the battery grounding update is?

b&d
I apologize as your post was spot on for OP needing to utilize an engine coolant heater with his temps @ -14°F.

The pump should not have needed anything more than fresh gaskets and a seal ring .
Rebuilding used injectors up to the definition of “rebuilt “. Unless the needle, seat and tips are 100% new. The injector isn’t worth reinstalling.
The JD utility tractors and many other makes and models ground the batteries on the nearest sheet metal . Adding another heavy ground cable from the batteries down to a starter mounting bolt will reduce voltage drop .
How many batteries and what size ?

I tend to agree....my 2120 has always smoked some since new, but once warmed up there is no visible smoke. It is a poor starter below freezing unless plugged in. The 2955 is a much better cold weather starter and hardly smokes at all. A bit newer technology, compression timing etc. May have some effect
Ben

(quoted from post at 21:07:04 01/26/19) The shop that did my heads do all of John deere dealers head work in the area. He put in all new seats an all new valves. They were real bad when I took them in. I did not check compression, I don't have a way to do it. [b:e2d19a17bf][color=red:e2d19a17bf]It starts fine,[/color:e2d19a17bf][/b:e2d19a17bf] just lots of smoke till it warms up. Thanks for pump info, I did not have the pump rebuilt, was suposed to had been done recently.

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Am I missing something ?? How could a bad battery connection cause smoking exhaust when cold ? OP states that it starts fine so I would guess that the battery connections are good ???

(quoted from post at 09:01:05 01/28/19)

(quoted from post at 21:07:04 01/26/19) The shop that did my heads do all of John deere dealers head work in the area. He put in all new seats an all new valves. They were real bad when I took them in. I did not check compression, I don't have a way to do it. [b:a93a7369e3][color=red:a93a7369e3]It starts fine,[/color:a93a7369e3][/b:a93a7369e3] just lots of smoke till it warms up. Thanks for pump info, I did not have the pump rebuilt, was suposed to had been done recently.

Click to expand...

Am I missing something ?? How could a bad battery connection cause smoking exhaust when cold ? OP states that it starts fine so I would guess that the battery connections are good ???

Click to expand...

Admittedly getting off on a tangent however with cold weather starting being one of the topics at hand . Thought that making sure that she has all the cranking rpm possible would be welcome .
I hope the rebuild parts were the later high compression pistons and not the early low compression pistons ?

cjs1958, I have read these comments over and over again. Again, guys like Tim S, Dieseltech, and others I consider the experts.

It sounds like you don't really know what you have with the pump and injectors. Someone before you did them. It's kinda like when someone says something was overhauled, the red flags go up because there are a lot of interpretations of overhaul I have found, at great expense.

My 4320 does not start say below 40 degrees and when I get it started it smokes like crazy until it warms up good and then it still has a healthy blue smoke. It is on my list to get the pump and injectors redone. I am considering removing the cab and doing clutch, pump, and injectors then.

The neighbors 4020 was overhauled including pump and injectors but it smoked like crazy ALL the time. I found the pump static timing to be way advanced, maybe 3/16 of an inch between the pump marks. We had the pump gone through again but they said it was fine. The guy that overhauled it swore it was right when it left his shop. When I put it all together again it took me a full day and a half to get the injection lines from the pump to the injectors to fit. In hind sight I think the prior mechanic just cranked down the lines, (That theory is supported by the fact that the bolts holding the lines at the pump were way over torqued, so as to not leak I suppose.) they were so out of alignment it created so much torque on the pump it moved during operation even through the hold down bolts. Anyway, after I lined up the injection lines with proper static timing, the tractor smoked a lot less.

My friend bought a 4230 from a jockey. It too was overhauled but would not start at ANY temperature without either. I was there when he was baling hay, yep, he needed ether to start it. Long story short it had a new short block but old pump and injectors. I told him to get the pump and injectors gone through. He finally did it, today it starts great to low temperatures I would not expect it to start. He was so excited.

So cjs1958, from what I understand of these posts, if it was mine I would get the pump and injectors redone and timed by a qualified shop.

Just me. That is where I would put my money. Pistons, rings, and valves have their own science and of course have to be done right. But to me the real science is in the pump and injectors once everything else is right.

By the way, I am headed down this same path on a 1971 4020 I bought from Michigan. Ya it was overhauled but does not run right and stinks so bad you cannot stand it. After the tank is cleaned I will also overhaul the pump and injectors.

Paul