4020 rock control is gone Please help ASAP

Rapidrob

Member
My 4020 Propane hydraulic lever has gone limp. The steel bar is still hooked up but the control valve(?) will not shift to drop my snow blade. We have a blizzard here and I need to be able to control the blade up/down.
There is a cab on the tractor.
Can I shift the valve with a wrench?, if so ,where is the valve located? I is not obvious here the rod goes to.
 
Early model, or late model with "side console"?

Either way, hitch valve is more or less behind your right heel.

Tractors with lever in steering pedestal use a a cable to the valve, models with "side console" use a simple linkage rod.

If yours has the cable, likely it broke, or POSSIBLY became disconnected at one of the ends, which could also happen with the later system using a rod.
 

If your 4020 was built between '64-'68 then I'll guess the 3 pt control cable came loose from lever on dash or cable is broken. Yes you can lower 3 pt but you will need to remove rockshaft cover for easier access to lever(key 31)

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It is a '69.
When you say right heel, it is out side of the cab? Is it on the right side of the transmission or more towards the engine flywheel?I'm trying to find where the cable is going to.
 
I said "behind your right heel".

WHERE is your right heel when you are sitting on the tractor?

Note lever in relation to hydraulic fill tube...

<img src = "https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSLiYTU8ni0UNfznBCgMhrfyIY8fRqVPnxe0SYWAkORY2mYRwnz">
 
Thank you for the photo. I have two access ports on the floor of the cab, I'll see if they give me access to this valve.
 
I took up the floor board only to find the valve is not there. I took a couple of photos where I think it may be. If it is under the welded sheet metal, than I boned. I have no way of lifting the cab off of the tractor.
My only option would be to cut the steel out from around the valve to get to the cable controlling the valve.
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Look at the right side of my photo, that is the "load and depth" control lever, the SAME lever that you arrow points to.

That should give you an idea of where the lever you are looking for is, at the lower LEFT of the photo I posted.
 
That cover around the pipe where you add trans oil has to come off.
The cable runs under and behind the rockshaft. Surely the cab sheet
metal is removable to access that cover.
 
Looking at the pics you posted your tractor is not a 1969. You have the hyd controls on the dash as can be seen by the hyd lines in your pics. The last year for hyd on the dash was 1968. Tom
 
The cover on the oil fill does come off IF the cab is removed. The back and side plates leading up to the oil fill plate are welded in place as one piece of the cab.
The hydraulic valve cannot be gotten to from the bottom as the cab steel surrounds it.
I either have to pull the cab off or cut the steel plate.
Thank you for your help so far.
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:11 12/28/18) Looking at the pics you posted your tractor is not a 1969. You have the hyd controls on the dash as can be seen by the hyd lines in your pics. The last year for hyd on the dash was 1968. Tom

Tom very good call! Ditto on tractor being a pre '69 with a rockshaft control cable. I take a serious look at the cable. It's possible one of the the cable clamps could have come loose.
 

If you haven't already checked I suggest to remove cowling(key 4) in frt of dash to see if rockshaft control cable is attached to control lever &amp; is clamped to dash frame correctly. Removing 4 cap screws is much easier that taking cutting torch to rockshaft cover.

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Its intact.
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Would one of you please help me measure out where I need to cut the sheet metal. Not having access to the valve, I do not know for certain where the up/down valve lever is located.
I have taken some photos of the area. I was able to slide my camera phone into a small opening but it does not show the valve,just the filler pipe. Is the valve in that lower right corner?
Will I have to pull the rock shaft arm off or the shaft in order to get to the valve.
Anoth two feet of snow is expected in 12 hours and I need to get to this valve to raise/lower my blade.

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I thought there's enough room to unbolt the rockshaft cover then slide it out BUT it's been over 30 yrs since I've been close to a 4020 with an aftermarket cab
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:48 12/30/18)
I thought there's enough room to unbolt the rockshaft cover then slide it out BUT it's been over 30 yrs since I've been close to a 4020 with an aftermarket cab

Agree. It sure looks like with the rockshaft arm removed, (because he can't lower it), and cut out the thin part of the rockshaft cover next to the fill pipe it should slide out in 1 piece.
 
I'm just going to throw this out. If you take the arm off the rock shaft, prop the rockshaft up and make darn sure it doesn't fall, cuz it hurts if your arm is in the way. Anyway if you take the bolts out on the side and the rear of the cover can you get enough room by propping the cover up without cutting.
 
Rapidrob : If your cable is no frozen or broke , my guess is it has just come unhooked from rockshaft control arm. I suggest remove 3pt. lift links [at yoke] [remove clip pin & bushing] from rockshaft arm. Lift arm straight up & lock them save in upright. cut 2 lines 4in high about 6 in. apart bend tin work up.. that will give room to get at lever...
 
Nothing like working in -16 F cold for 1- hours. But I was able to figure out how to cot the cover to clear the hydraulic fill neck. The cab SITS on top of the removable cover preventing any vertical movement. The cover has one lower bolt holding the cover in place at the front. The cab steel covers this bolt by 6". I had to pry the steel away and cit it off using a angle grinder.
The Rock Shaft Lift Arm was challenge to get off. The bolt and washer came right off. I soaked the shaft with Kroil. The gap,or lack of behind the hub will not allow a gear puller as well as the shape of the arm will not allow ant fore to be applied.
I found a bolt head at 7 o'clock that allowed a crow bar to be used and the arm came right off!
The valve cable is not broken at either end. But the cable is very hard to move. Decades of crud have frozen the cable in place. It is broken somewhere in the run. I tap the valve into place without killing myself.
I will drill a hole in the steel plate for the front of the cover and weld the part I cut off back on to help keep the cab interior clean. .
I'll have to find a new cable assembly and replace the damaged one in order to use the dash lever.
Thanks to those who help with useful info.
Photo one-cover on and cab sitting on it,Notice crushed 1/4" foam seal
Photo2- cover off and rock arm back on.
Photo3- cut cover
Photo4- hydraulic


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valve lever
 
To make rockshaft 3 pt. workable, [when needed for snow] while taking cable out to loosen up or replace if needed, used a flat piece of steel 1/8 in. thick, 1/2 n. wide, about 2 to 2&1/2 ft. long ; drill hole in one end to match peg on control arm, cut small 3/4 slot in tin work on cab cover , 3pt. can be operated normally , with push or pull on lever.. I've done this many times , when cables freeze in winter weather, I to live with snow & -20... hope this helps...
 
I made a vale actuator using a couple pieces of flat stock. I made a dog-leg at the valve side of the flat stock and a piece of FINNFORM as a handle. I bent the flat stock to clear the hydraulic valve and the opening at the floor plates.
The flat stock is sensitive enough I can feel the various stops for blade heights.
The cable is frozen in place and can be only moved by a hammer. There is a brake somewhere in its run.
 
Good for you to get it working again. Do you have a heavy construction background? Not many other people would know what Finnform is. :D Glad my concrete forming days are far behind me.
 
Finnform is great stuff. I use it for any projects that have to last a very long time.
My neighbor who is also retired, made palatial drive ways and walls for movie stars. He has a mountain of the stuff left over.

As for the tractor, I now have to find out which rockshaft control cable I need to buy ( how long ).
 
(quoted from post at 22:27:35 12/31/18) Finnform is great stuff. I use it for any projects that have to last a very long time.
My neighbor who is also retired, made palatial drive ways and walls for movie stars. He has a mountain of the stuff left over.

As for the tractor, I now have to find out which rockshaft control cable I need to buy ( how long ).

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I got up at dawn to plow the 1/4 mile driveway and my to neighbors drives and the make shift rockshaft control valve handle I made worked well.
The tractor cleared the 38" of snow without too much trouble.
The 6 foot drag blade that came with the tractor is too narrow for this tractor; I'd love to find a used 8 foot or wider blade that would fit.
I only use the tractor for road work and snow clearing.
 

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