JD 60 clutch, let's try this again

Hey guys, take a look at the video I've attached. I'm still not sure/comfortable with what's wrong with my clutch or what to do from here. Thanks.
JD 60 clutch vid

Problem..??

Is the drum moving excessively..?

The drum must move some, as the clutch-pac tightenes, it will draw the drum out to compress the rear (Back) clutch lining, as well as the rest...

Everything gets squeezed against the Clutch Driver, which never moves in and out..

Well I don't think the belt pulley (drum?) is actually moving enough. At least that's what I 'think' is wrong. So I'm not sure where to go from here.

That model is very touchy to balance the free play of the clutch when disengaged to a point where the inside back facing starts to grab again and start to drive the tractor. The harder you pull the clutch handle back the more it wants to grab and keep driving. This can be very dangerous and the more that clutch drive sits back on the crank the worse it can get. Only help for that I have came up with was to turn some off of the backside of the clutch driver giving them a little more free play.
This was my warning to pmarkel back on page 3 now . He was having clutch driver spline issues. How was yours ? You will have to loosen up your pulley brake for now. Then pull off the outer cover and you adjust the tension to engage clutch lever with the 3 castle nuts. Lock the clutch in (lever forward)tighten all 3 of them to about 10 foot pounds and this will get you close. You should be able to hear it snap in and out. When out (lever back) engine off tranny out of gear you should be able to rotate belt pulley by hand and have an area of free play. Then you can adjust the pulley brake to help stop it with engine running.( see warning above ) The flywheel side only needs messed with if your crankshaft end play is too much. .005-.010" is the setting. The loose nut up on the clutch operating rod can be snugged up. That clevis can be adjusted to adjust the lever position so it won't hit the light or your knee.

It only needs to move enough to "Un-Load" the clutch facing on the back side of the Clutch-Driver...

The rest move "out" and that movement is never noticed..but still not a large movement..

My thought are you don't have the 3 adjusting bolts set right...

Well I'll definitely take a look at it Tim. It sounds like a very touchy system.

It sounds like I'm gonna have to really look at some specs also. It just doesn't seem like it should be this hard to figure out though. Okay, thanks for the inputs.

Okay, thanks for the inputs Mike. It sure seems to be a 'touchy' system. I didn't have any clutch spline issues at all when I put it back together. And it's hardly moved since I couldn't get it right. Sounds like I'm gonna have to put it back in the shed and fine tune it. I think I'll wait and see if I can finesse it before I shave a few thousands off the driver. I may even invest in an end clearance micrometer. And the loose nut on the clutch rod was something I started but decided better than to mess with it.

There are a couple ways of adjusting the clutch,,and setting the the tension on the 3 clutch bolts need to be even,,and it's not complicating one way is to snap the clutch lever forward and evenly adjust each bolt a little at a time to say 20 ft. pounds (there is a torque setting but I can't remember it right now),,but go to 20 lbs. and see how it snaps, if it's too easy, give each nut a 1/2 turn and try the snap again, do this till it snaps nice and releases nice

How far was your clutch driver setting back onto the crankshaft ? The driver needs to stick out farther than the end of the crankshaft 1/4" or more would be ideal.
Or in other words the end of the crankshaft NEEDS to be down in farther than the end of the driver. If flush, close to flush or past flush your going to have troubles.

Uncle Carl,
Just looking at your video and it seems like the brake is too tight. I would loosen it way up until you get the snap-in issue corrected, then adjust the brake to stop the pulley before it starts to want to drive the tractor if the clutch lever is pulled too far back. Just my 2-cents. good Luck!,
John

Once you get it figured out it seems very simple,,old farmers have been adjusting them with Monkey wrenches for near 100 years...

20 FP is too tight. I adjusted my "A" to 13 FP and it was about right. Also, a half turn on the nuts is a lot of adjustment. Just one or two castelations tighter or looser can make a lot of difference. Using a torque wrench is good, but you have to torque the nuts to 13 FP, then continue around the bolts and loosen the nut, re-torque,and follow this procedure on all the nuts. The idea is to get all the nuts to the same torque, then if adjustment is needed, you can adjust each nut evenly by castelations, there-by keeping the torque even.

Yes,, I was thinking after I posted that 20lbs. was a bit too much....

Had a similar problem on a 70. The lining on the aftermarket pulley brake is too thick. Got the correct one from J D Equipment. They're more expensive but made adjusting the clutch a lot easier. The reason the clutch is trying to drive when it's pulled back is The yoke is putting pressure on the clutch discs just like it does when it goes forward. Wear on the clutch slider can cause this. It's covered in Jim Brownings J D H Restoration Guide. The pulley brake is not supposed to stop the tractor, just the pulley. I know everyone does it including me but we shouldn't. Also, make sure the release springs are not collapsed . If there is wear on the back side of the slider from the yoke that can be a problem.

Thanks Mike M. I'm gonna tear into it this afternoon since the Weather is nice. I'll let ya know. That may be the most of my problem right there.

Okay will do John.

Hello Rusty Wheel. Wear on the clutch slider should not be a problem. It's brand new. I'm starting to think it may be the position of the fixed clutch drive disk on the crankshaft. and thanks for the inputs on the brake pulley pad.