1950 JD B Governor Not Responding

Ayr Time

Member
I am in the process of restoring a 1950 JD B that has been in the family since new. The B sat outside dormant for 16 years and 3 years ago I began bringing it back to life.
Fortunately the engine wasn't seized. I have a '49 B donor from which I have harvested a number of parts including the governor.

Oh... and yes I have the Service Manual and this fabulous forum as a resource

I've had the B running very nicely and the governor responding well. Recent new tires had allowed me to finally drive it up and down our 1km (.621 mi) gravel road.
Last week the engine died and I was unable to start it. Thinking water in fuel, I dumped the sediment bowl, disassembled, cleaned the carb (yes all the small passages etc). I changed out the condenser in the wico XH mag, adjusted the points. Changed out the sparkplugs to hotter range Auto Lite 3116 as has been suggested.
Running like a top again, but I'm not getting a response now from the governor.
I've adjusted the rod from the "tower" to the gov. spring to 14 1/2".
I've tried to adjust the rod from the gov. to the throttle on the carb to 1/2 hole short at full throttle as I keep reading.
However, gov isn't responding.

Gov shaft with spring and arm is solid on the vertical shaft.
Gov isn't vibrating as if it had tossed a weight.
Might the weights be stuck? They were good and free when I assembled the gov on the tractor some time ago.

Do I dare to carefully remove the left end plate and even pull out the gov. shaft? I know I must be careful with the mag tabs on the other end.

I'm trying to do the minimum disassembly to try and determine whats wrong internally. I've got the timing set really nice and don't want to "screw it up.

Really don't want to remove the gov and fan shaft and all that goes with that unless really necessary.

Help, please!

Richard in E Ontario. 100 lakes within 50 miles and we're blessed to live on one of them!
 
The only way to know what is going on in the governor is to pull the left hand cover. Be careful of the shims under the cover and remove the magneto before putting it back together.
 
Sounds like the problem started after working on the carb. You may have the throttle shaft/bushings too tight ? or the bottom cotter pin in the linkage at the throttle shaft is catching the housing ( very common ) or the linkage could be binding where it passes thru the rear tank mount ? I had one where they left the rubber mounts out and it dropped it down so it rubbed.
If all the above looks good then start it up unhook the linkage and hold it in one hand and run the throttle with the other and see it governor tries to react as it speeds up.
 

If you make the mag/distributor with a paint mark & mark the drive lug on the governor shaft & dist with paint your timing should be spot on
when you reassemble. Any binding anywhere will affect the governor, like others have said with cotter keys on the throttle shaft. If you have
zero binding , then remove the shaft & it will come out even though you won't think it will? Timing mark on the cam gear you will need to find
& it must mesh with governor shaft when you reassemble. Make sure everything slides left to right freely, weights are free & bearings are good.
If everything is fine in there they your issue is in linkage or the carb. Make sure you tighten the 2 screws TIGHT on the vertical shaft of the
governor arm.
 
Many thanks guys, for the comments, suggestions and ideas. Neither of the rods was hooked up when I last got the B running, so no binding there.

I had it running like a top, nice idle and no stumble on throttle up.
I held my hand on the governor lever as I increased the throttle and only after significant engine speed could I detect the lever being pushed. I'm familiar with the governor "innards", and the timing mark on the drive gear.
Thanks for the reassurance that I can take the left plate off the gov and after labeling the gear position, carefully pull out the shaft, bearing in mind, the "fingers" on the gov control rod need to be turned out of the way.
I may not get back at for a few days, but I'll certainly report what I find.

Thanks again,
Richard
 
Make sure you remove the Mag. or dist. first and put it back on last as not to break the housing from drawing the LH bearing cover up.
 
UPDATE:I finally got back to checking the non responsive governor.
Set the engine to just past TDC on the left cylinder. I marked and removed the magneto.
Removed the left governor cover. My yellow paint used to highlight the matching of the gears stood out well as do the v's on the gears. Had to disconnect the oil line to the pressure and remove the gauge panel to allow the governor rod to swing far enough to also move the intern fingers out of the way.
As I withdrew the governor shaft assembly I watched to see if any parts were stuck or missing. I set the shaft assembly on the work bench to check it out. All looks and feels good. No parts appear to be sticking or are jammed...weights and connects all move freely. All great news.
So now,I'm baffled. Why is the governor not responding. Tractor is running like a top, but, I'm not getting any pressure on the governor lever when I Rev up the engine.
I'll try to attach a photo.
a282836.jpg
 
what you're explaining is impossible if the fork is really riding on the thrust plate. Be sure the arm is properly seated in bevel on the shaft. It sounds like you tightened but failed to put the set screw in the pivot hole. Back the locking screw off and be sure that the arm is in the correct position when you install the governer. Then rotate the arm position then put the throttle arm on. It's something very simple.
 
(quoted from post at 15:15:17 11/01/18) what you're explaining is impossible if the fork is really riding on the thrust plate. Be sure the arm is properly seated in bevel on the shaft. It sounds like you tightened but failed to put the set screw in the pivot hole. Back the locking screw off and be sure that the arm is in the correct position when you install the governer. Then rotate the arm position then put the throttle arm on. It's something very simple.
Also I noted the bearing is separated from the pressure shim. This should have been together when you pulled the unit as the fork runs on the outside on the pressure shim.
 
Thanks Machineryman,
The bearing and pressure shim were together when I removed the assembly from the governor case. I separated them for the photo.
The parts manual shows them separated as well.
Richard
 
Yes the arm is properly and deeply seated in the "hole" on the shaft, There is no slop or playeother.
That said, I'll loosen the arm off the shaft and re install it just to make doubly sure its on correctly and tight.

Before disassembly, I ran the tractor. I throttled up and down with my hand applying pressure on the governor arm and I was experiencing absolutely no pressure on that arm what
so ever.

I wondered if the sleeve was jammed on the shaft, or the weights were stuck. As the photo shows there is lots oil on the parts and everything is free to move.

Too many irons in the fire as they say and I wont be back at it until next week.

I'm baffled at the moment and sure appreciate your input!

PS...I was amazed that the photo sows so well on the forum!
 
(quoted from post at 19:48:57 11/01/18) Thanks Machineryman,
The bearing and pressure shim were together when I removed the assembly from the governor case. I separated them for the photo.
The parts manual shows them separated as well.
Richard

Put the shaft in a large drill or lathe and see if the weights are forced out....I can't see any possible reason why the shaft would not slide as centrifical force is a going to move the arms....there might be a burr or something that keeps the bushing from sliding forward...most of the time the time the contact surface wears on the arms and this somewhat throws the action off but your's look fine....
 
Thanks again
machineryman1945.
I may very well have over
rev'd the engine and as a
result caused the weights
to get stuck. I watched
carefully as I pulled the
governor shaft out for
things like stuck weights,
but didn't see anything. A
friend has loaned me a
tach, so I can set the max
engine speed as well as the
idle.

If you don't mind me
asking, where are you
located?

Richard in E Ontario
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:25 11/02/18) Thanks again
machineryman1945.
I may very well have over
rev'd the engine and as a
result caused the weights
to get stuck. I watched
carefully as I pulled the
governor shaft out for
things like stuck weights,
but didn't see anything. A
friend has loaned me a
tach, so I can set the max
engine speed as well as the
idle.

If you don't mind me
asking, where are you
located?

Hartford, Ky.
Richard in E Ontario
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:25 11/02/18) Thanks again
machineryman1945.
I may very well have over
rev'd the engine and as a
result caused the weights
to get stuck. I watched
carefully as I pulled the
governor shaft out for
things like stuck weights,
but didn't see anything. A
friend has loaned me a
tach, so I can set the max
engine speed as well as the
idle.




If you don't mind me
asking, where are you
located?

Richard in E Ontario

I might be way far off, but are you using the original rod that connects the governor to the carb? I had one made, made well, but for some reason wasn't just right and the same thing you're describing happened on my '37 A. I put the original "worn" rod in and everything was fine. Of course there was much trial and error until I go to that point.

Bob
 
(quoted from post at 04:37:12 11/03/18)
(quoted from post at 19:30:25 11/02/18) Thanks again
machineryman1945.
I may very well have over
rev'd the engine and as a
result caused the weights
to get stuck. I watched
carefully as I pulled the
governor shaft out for
things like stuck weights,
but didn't see anything. A
friend has loaned me a
tach, so I can set the max
engine speed as well as the
idle.




If you don't mind me
asking, where are you
located?

Richard in E Ontario

I might be way far off, but are you using the original rod that connects the governor to the carb? I had one made, made well, but for some reason wasn't just right and the same thing you're describing happened on my '37 A. I put the original "worn" rod in and everything was fine. Of course there was much trial and error until I go to that point.

Navajo: Now I was assuming the poster was setting the linkage 1/2 short and his butterfly and linkage was all free...now if this isn't so I can see how he has the shipwreck
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top