G carb question

kwoods · Oct 15, 2018

I've found that when I pull the throttle all the way back on my G that it shuts off. Researching the carb I've found that the primary idle passage doesn't get closed off so should the tractor still run with the throttle closed? I had this carb apart once and bought the #40 and #53 drills to clean out the passages. I ran small wire through the idle passages in the bore of the carb but maybe I didn't get them clean enough? Searching on here I came across a discussion on a DLTX 18 and a member by the name of "John Deere D" posted a bunch of pictures of a manual he bought that goes in depth in the cleaning of these carbs. Does anyone know where I can get one of these manuals?

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=jd&th=551992

PopinJohn · Oct 15, 2018

Looking in the choke end, there is a small orifice at about 3 o'clock that admits air to the
idle circuit, must be open.
With the idle mixture screw removed, there is an opening in the lower part of the stem that
admits fuel to the idle circuit, must be open, and is affected by the adjustment of the
idle mixture screw.
About halfway up the stem, there is a #10 brass plug to be removed, which gives access to
the "secret orifice", which must be open. Be sure to put the brass plug back in after cleaning.
IF....the passages are open, and both orifices in the throttle end of the carb are clean, yes,
the tractor should run at idle, given the idle mixture screw is at least one to 1-? turns open.
Mike S.

old popper · Oct 15, 2018

Robert's carb repair has a video. "How to rebuild DLTX series carburetors part II"
go to www.robertscarbrepair.com
very informative video.

MSD · Oct 15, 2018

On our pulling G's, we pull the throttle all the way back to idle to start them. Chokes are removed and they won't fire if you have them at anywhere open from there. They are highly
"tuned" though.

RandyB(MI) · Oct 17, 2018

The pin ports in the bore take a 58 bit and need to be correct size...not just open. Down in the stem , take out the upper screw and look in to see if you can see your idle needle shaft. If you can't...you haven't drilled far enough. You drilled the two # 40,s so should be good to go there. Another overlooked thing on these is the throttle plate itself. They usually have a "step" worn on the bottom and lets them settle down and leave an air gap around the top. This will let it suck air as apposed to sucking idle fuel through the bore ports. The only carbs that should "stop" when pulled all way back are the late "B" 67 and late "A" 71..as the bore ports are completely covered when lever is all way back.

G carb question

kwoods

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PopinJohn

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old popper

Well-known Member

MSD

Well-known Member

RandyB(MI)

Well-known Member

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