3020 gas hydraulic leak

ajhbike

Member
So I finally get the 3020 running and brush hogged for 4 hours plus 40 minute travel time. I get home and there is a hydraulic leak under the back end. I will have to investigate which will entail pulling off the draw bar which looks to be quite a chore.

There is what looks to be about a 1.5 to 2" pin or shaft (but it doesn't pivot) that is horizontal above the draw bar. It is leaking where the pin or shaft goes through a bracket. At present all I can do is watch the every 5 second dripping and collect the gold in a bucket for reuse.

Anybody have a name for this area so that I can see the parts explosion on the JD website?
 
Load sensing shaft seals are leaking. Do a search, there will be plenty of reading material that comes up.
 
I would agree on load shaft.

Replace bushings seals and shaft if scored, then shim so arms do not have slop.
 
There are some seal and bushing kits on Ebay from a seller in IN. They are better than the original Deere seals. Get a Deere service book. Ebay is a good place to get that as well. It will say 3000 series. It will give very detailed instructions on load shaft replacement. While all the hyd oil is out check the trans. screen as well. Tom
 
I hope I didn't damage anything driving accross town for 20 minutes....or for that matter I don't really know when it started yesterday. We'll see how much oil I drain out before panicking over that
 

Place L/D lever under seat in "D" before removing shaft as that should make shaft easier to reinstall. I agree if replacing bushings to get the ones built by Bolings Mach shop. Shim washers(key 20) fit between trans case & drawbar support. Shim washer part numbers are shown in photo.

mvphoto25340.png
 
So, the load shaft is out and it looks to be in good shape, no rust or nicks. I removed the oil seals...but I have a question....in the picture...are those the bushings that need to be removed? If so just use anything as a punch and rap them out?
mvphoto25598.jpg
 
You can remove them and install ones with O-rings in them to give you a second set of seals,, the primary reason the load shaft seal fail is the lack of shims between the A-frame and the trans case, when the A-frame works back and forth it wears on the seals..
 
i USE A LONG PIECE OF 1" ROUND STOCK CUT OFF NICE AND SQUARE ON THE END,, THERE IS ONLY ABOUT 1/8" PROTURSION TO HIT AGAINST,, TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE FOLLOWER ARM,,YOU WILL BE PUTTING YOUR DRIVER THROUGH IT AS YOU GO..
 
How about some help on this...I hear that I should clean the screen and change the hydraulic/trans filter. Is the arrow on the right where the screen is? Also, what and where can I get the filter?
mvphoto25620.jpg
 
Yes that is the screen plug, you can get a filter at NAPA #1147 or some of the other parts stores may carry them, the John Deere part number is AR75603
 
Give the screen cap a good sharp hit with a fairly heavy hammer. Hit it square. Makes it very easy to remove.
 
(quoted from post at 15:17:23 10/21/18) Jim, our buddy Benji spent a few days up here with me last week...

Tim
One of my neighbors I converse with regularly told me Benji was in Ohio on another mechanical training school. As you already know Bengi is a very good individual.
Jim
 
Punched out the bushings and seals, shaft in great shape. Installed new bushings and seals, buttoned everything up, put the oil back in and everything was and is tight. Appreciate everyone's help...even Benjy
 

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